quote:

Originally posted by alwitz:
However, my SIG 938 will not tolerate grease on the disconnector - something I have proven to myself with repeated experiments. It takes very little iterference to cause the disconnector to hang-up leaving the trigger "frozen". You just have to know your own guns and be aware that in general all gereralities are false - including this one.

I just bought a 938 and am new to Sigs, what is this 'connector' of which you speak? Thanks.

take the left side grip off.
You will see a horizontal bar in the center that connects the trigger to the hammer. A small flat vertical bar in the center of that trigger bar runs from the trigger bar to the slide.
When the slide is out of battery that vertical bar is pushed down and displaces the trigger bar so it is "disconnected" from the hammer.

Anyone here use Froglube? I just bought a used pistol that has the Froglube treatment on it. I was told that petroleum based products shouldn't be used on it and removing it might be a huge pain in the butt. I was considering picking up some Froglube to continue the treatment for that one while I use Hoppes and Militec grease on my other guns. Is froglube everything it's cracked out to be or just another Navy SEAL endorsed product that really isn't anymore special than what I'm already doing?

I use oil on friction areas, then apply the TW25B grease on top of it.

Is there anything wrong by doing this ?

quote:

Originally posted by Brewer3401:
I use oil on friction areas, then apply the TW25B grease on top of it.

Is there anything wrong by doing this ?

Generally it is a bad to terrible idea to mix lubricants. It is entirely likely that there will be incompatabilities between the different lubes Problems here can include additive precipitation, loss of antiwear performance, loss of demulsification properties, reduction of oxidation stability.

Thanks for the info.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
I have really been wanting for good information on grease for slide rails. My P220 ST has been over lubed with so much Hoppes oil, I have to keep it hidden in a plastic bag. Yuck! Last week I removed top round from mag as it was quite exposed to oil for several weeks. What do you think of white lithium which had been used forever on Garands for friction areas? Please keep us informed about your lithium/moly grease. Thank you..

Lubriplate white lithium grease ( low end gear gear grease ) as used in out board boat motors is water resistant. It was used by the Marine Corp for a long time to lube M1 Garands and protect them from salt water. I have used it for years even though I was in the Army. If you use grease care must be taken if you live in cold climates. For that I use a lite very high viscosity grease or none at all. Use the wrong grease in cold climates and your gun will become a solid chunk and not work.

As a general rule (with all of the caviats about general rules) the tighter the gun fits the less and lighter lube should be used. I would use grease on a GLOCK while I use a light viscosity oil on a custom 1911 that is machined exquisitely.

quote:

Originally posted by critterdoc:

Another application tool option is the narrow and flexible plastic Teat Infusion Cannula, for cows. If you go with these be sure to mount them on LUER LOCK syringes so the cannula does not pop off the syringe hub under pressure.

I got some Slide Glide and then headed down to the local co-op and got a syringe and 3 cannulas for $.94, including tax. Since I don't feel like working on work, I think I'll go work on some guns.

quote:

Originally posted by qwakboom:

quote:

Originally posted by critterdoc:

Another application tool option is the narrow and flexible plastic Teat Infusion Cannula, for cows. If you go with these be sure to mount them on LUER LOCK syringes so the cannula does not pop off the syringe hub under pressure.

I got some Slide Glide and then headed down to the local co-op and got a syringe and 3 cannulas for $.94, including tax. Since I don't feel like working on work, I think I'll go work on some guns.

Indeed. With the proper tools working on gunz can be an udderly enjoyable task.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: critterdoc,

For Classic SIGs carbon slide guns,

1. Any problems using Ballistol with TW-25B, or exclusively just Ballistol? Will they react bad together?

2. Any problems using TW25B and MC2500® Oil in same gun?

I always liked Ballistol because HK recommended it but you are the experts. Thanks

By far of one of the best posts I've ever seen on the net. Still relevant, provides much dialogue and much information.

Ok, after reading about 8 pages and my mind about to explode from all the info ,I went back and reread the first post. The words "any gun grade grease" was such a relief. As I will have a new Sig in a couple of days I want to treat it right.

No grease on the inside of the barrel. That may create unwanted increase in pressure when you go to fire a round. I've heard some people say that a very light coating of oil, not grease, would be beneficial inside the barrel.

I just picked up a P229 Sport 40 Compensated and wanted advise on the proper grease to use with it. I read on Brian Enos' site to only use his Slide-Glide Lite on compensated pistols. What other grease is recommended? Lubriplate 105?

Thanks Flork. I just started using gun grease for the first with the last cleaning on the 238's. Your article gives me reassurance plus a couple of other brand names to try. I bought a small tube of Hopps for this go around.

Wow, the Sig Sauer maintenance vids show them using hardly any in comparison.

http://sigsauer.com/CustomerSe...intenanceGuides.aspx

Lubrication
http://sigsauer.com/CustomerSe...height=300&width=380

Well, I gooped up the P226 according to Flork and just ended up with two big globs of Shooter's Choice hanging off the back of the slide when I worked the action. Since the slide on the SIG is just as tight as my custom 1911, maybe I should use oil instead.

I "over lube" with TW25B, rack the slide 10 times or so, and wipe off excess. (Then rack again and wipe off again)

An NRA instructor and gunsmith both say I am over-lubing.

Saw a clip on TV where they put handguns and rifles in a bath (literally) of motor oil, let sit for 5 minutes, then fired.

No malfunctions.

Not exactly what we're doing, but their point was you can't over-lubricate.

I think you can put lube where oil should be - bad idea, and oil where lube should be - not the end of the world, but lube is better on certain areas.

Note: I have 4 SIGS, (226-229-2/232'S) and do this to each of them.

I have noticed SIG ships their guns DRY - not sure of why, but I always field strip and lube before firing a new gun.

1) Why, oh why, would you do that? All you are doing is spending far more on TW25B than is useful. When you over lube and wipe off the excess you are achieving exactly the same result as never having put the excess on in the first place.

2) There is a significant problem with over-lube that would not show up in the dramatic but ultimately meaningless oil immersion demo - collection of dirt and grime in a real world use environment.

3) I have proven more than once to my own satisfaction that some guns can be over-lubed into non functioning (my 938 being one of them), while others can not be over-lubed no matter what (my 250s being two of them). The answer is know your guns, like your children each has its own character.

4) my favorite gunsmith recommends 300 rounds or so on a new gun before any significant lube jobs.