I just threw my Tetra in the trash.
Pulled one of my 1911s out of the safe and all the Tetra had dried to a hard piece of crud and the bonus was the recoil spring and guide rod had rust on it. This part was *covered* in Tetra grease before putting in the safe.
Tetra oil is OK but their grease is shit.
Now I've got to go through the whole freaking safe and get off all the other guns that I used it on. I am NOT HAPPY.

Slide-glide is going on everything that needs grease in this house...even if it does smell like gear oil!

Wow! The things one learns.
Reading this I didn’t so much learn anything new, as learn WHY some things I did for years, worked, and some did not. OK, and I learned something new, too.
Thanks, Flork.

Tetra gun. A former employer bought a crateful of the spray cans when it first came out. We tried so hard to make this stuff work as a lube. Those guns – Sigs and Berettas, mostly – suffered considerable damage on the frame rails. Steel frame guns rusted and in a couple distressing cases, seized up. Dumped it all after a few years. (No rude comments about being slow to learn, please.)

On one of those later occasions we were spending a lot of time in tropical countries and the guns suffered from the high humidity and our sweat. Funny, to me, to read your comments about gear lube and ATF. On one occasion we poured – as in “poured” - ATF through some guns and then used compressed air to blow most of it out. As was noted, however, it worked, and stained.

Gear lube seemed the best solution at the time. It tended to stay in the gun while migrating around pretty well. For short-term use it worked for us.

The real change came with CLP. I loved it. My guns loved it. My employer loved it. Then I retired. And a few months later THIS was published:
http://www.nraguncare.com/blog/tag/clp-cleaner-lube/
He says CLP is TERRIBLE! Does TERRIBLE THINGS to guns. OH NO! What had I done? Had I doomed my guns???
I dragged ‘em all out of the safe and examined them carefully. Some of them have fired thousands of rounds since the switch. Looked fine to me. Some that had rusted and that I subsequently treated with ONLY CLP seemed to have rusted no more.

Doing nothing more than Looking Carefully At a 1995 P229/357Sig and saying “Uhm hmm” a lot, I took it to the range and DOING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ELSE TO IT I fired 250 rounds through it, punishing some recalcitrant bowling pins. All the CLP-wet parts were still wet at the end.
I guess I was extraordinarily lucky not to have ruined my guns with CLP for the last umpteen years. WHEW!

Sooo, whilst at the range I shot a couple hundred rounds through each of two more CLP-abused P229s (357Sig), a 1986 (I think) P226, a Taurus PT101 and my spanking new Sig P226 X5 AllAround.

THIS TIME, however, I followed Flork’s guideline and greased them first. All of them.
And will forever after.

If you have an X5 you know how resistant the slide is to being slipped off the frame. I greased it. Made NO difference. Still took both hands, both feet and help from a small mule to get it off. And back on.
Shot like a DREAM, though.

Sooo, doing the “old dog / new tricks” thing, I am now greasing all the frame rails, the front inch or so of the barrels and the top of chambers; Places that slide against other parts a lot.
Thanks, Flork.

I was doing basically this before I read this thread.
All of my guns, use CLP to clean, then follow up with 91% rubbing alcohol to get slide/frame degreased, then TW25B on frame rails, then rack slide a few times. Check to make sure all is wet. I use just enough that a small amount comes out of the back of the slide. I figure if none comes out, it may be under-lubed.

Anyone see a problem with the 91% alcohol. I have over 26,000 rounds on a P226 (4,000 of .40 and 22,000 with the .22 conversion kit).

I see no evidence of wear on the frame, so I believe this is working for me.

I apologize if this has already been mentioned but does flork recommend greasing the slide as well as the rails on the frame? Seems redundant but just want to be sure.

Hi Flork,
That was a great post....

I do have few questions for you.

1) What grease do you suggest for P226 Stainless Elite and MK25 (I do not shoot my MK 25, I've bough it as collector item)?

2) How do you like frog lube ?

Thank You

quote:

Originally posted by e26969:
Hi Flork,
That was a great post....

I do have few questions for you.

1) What grease do you suggest for P226 Stainless Elite and MK25 (I do not shoot my MK 25, I've bough it as collector item)?

2) How do you like frog lube ?

Thank You

Two words...Weapon Shield

They have solvent, grease, and lube.

Just got turned on to Fire clean, all my
Sigs now wear it inside the barrel and around internals for easy carbon cleanup.
My X5 Short in SS could never tolerate grease given how tight the slide to frame fit is. Using Weapon shield oil for the rails and frame. Not sure grease or oil as a single lube everywhere is a valid mindset?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigmoid,

Tetra Gun Grease, all synthetic LP

Tetra Gun Care http://www.tetraguncare.com

Glad to see another Lansman on the site. Use 25b. Works well for me.

I just received my order of Mil-COMM MC25 (4 oz.) and TW25B (1.5 oz tube). This stuff is great.....should last me a while.

Good stuff.
I still have about 3-4 months worth left from a 4 oz. tube I bought about 2+ years ago.
Shoot weekly and clean gun after each outing.

If any body try Premium Grease with PTFE, No melt high temp, extreme pressure-MX6 INOX

I have used Tetra Gun Grease for a long time now and been pretty happy with it but I am interested in giving Weapon Shield a try. Anybody esle using this on their Sig pistols?

I have been using Weapon Shield on both , my P227 , & my SCAR 17 S.
George Fennel's distribution warehouse, is 4 miles from my residence.
A few complimentary samples of his W.P. oil & ivory colored grease , were given to me.
The manager there, is very hospitable, and knowledgeable.

Cleanup of carbon fouling is a breeze, on both guns. The CLP type oil is full synthetic.
It stays put, more than Fennel's 1st product.... Firepower FP-10.

All my Sigs came with a sample packet of TW25 grease so the obviously recommend it. Today I bought a P320sc and to my surprise there was no grease sample, instead there was a sample of Lucas oil. So is this what Sig is now touting as their recommended lube? I never heard of this brand before.

quote:

Originally posted by mag318:
All my Sigs came with a sample packet of TW25 grease so the obviously recommend it. Today I bought a P320sc and to my surprise there was no grease sample, instead there was a sample of Lucas oil. So is this what Sig is now touting as their recommended lube? I never heard of this brand before.

I have, and I ordered some from TGS. So,

A QUESTION FOR FLORK:
how are Lucas Oil products used on the P320?

The Lucas grease is some good stuff. If you want to save a few bucks you can buy a 14oz. tube of their marine grease for around seven bucks. I got mine at O'Riley auto parts. It's the same grease(minus the grape sent)they package in a 1OZ.tube and charge $10 for. Go to the Lucas wesite and compare the TDS for each and you'll see.

how about Mobil 1 synthetic oil to lube pistols?

quote:

Originally posted by perrinyanna:
how about Mobil 1 synthetic oil to lube pistols?

I use Mobil1 oil and Mobil1 grease on all my firearms. Works great!

Thanks I should try Mobil 1 grease one of these days..