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Was successfully using a light viscosity oil on my purpose built 1911. Had a red dot sight installed and was collecting lube splatter on the lens. Changed to a heavier viscosity oil (both wilson Combat products) - problem solved. When you have seen one combination that works - you have seen one combination that works! | |||
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Just took a dip for some Slide Glide Red, we'll see how it shoots...because it smells like a dirty old man.  | |||
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| Too soon old, Too late smart |
Sorry if this question has already been posted, but why is it that in the Sig manuals that come with the gun (at least for my 239 and 226) nothing is said about grease. Just oil for lube. I use Militec and I follow flork's guidelines, just wondering why Sig is silent on grease. One other thing, I know the bore should be cleaned from chamber end not muzzle, but if you're using a brush as Sig recommends, should you remove it before pulling it back out? _______________________________________ NRA Life Member Member Isaac Walton League I wouldn't let anyone do to me what I've done to myself | |||
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Oil is good, but grease is better. I have been using SlideGlide and Gunbutter for years. | |||
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I started using fire clean. Should grease be added on top of it on the slide rails? 3.1415926536 | |||
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Thanks for the tip on SFL0, non toxic is a high priority for me and at that price its worth trying. | |||
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Wet and sticky. Run then autos that way. ----------------------------- Always carry. Never tell. | |||
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Ok I'm going to have t go through and read this whole thread. I've read the first few pages. I bought my Sig 229 last spring. Started off using Shooters choice all weather (its red) and in a syringe. Last couple of range times I decided to use the tw25 that came with the gun. After reading the first few pages it sounds like I might be better off going back to the shooters choice. I guess I have a lot of reading to do this afternoon. | |||
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Well, I just spent an afternoon reading through this thread as well. A lot of different opinions to consider. I just bought a Sig P238 with the black nitron slide and alloy frame, have not fired it yet, but have given it a complete FrogLube treatment. I have a P229 Elite Stainless & P232 Stainless on order. Now, my question is, after reading all these posts, should I continue with the FrogLube on all my Sigs or use the TW25B grease that comes with the guns? Sounds like most people are really lathering the grease on the Sig rails. Will the standard Froglube treatment provide an adequate amount of rail lubrication, or, do I need to add grease on top of the FrogLube? After applying the FrogLube to a heated gun and allowing it to sit for 15 minutes and then doing a wipe-down, there is no visible FL left on the rails. Sounds like most people are saying that you need to have visible grease on the Sig rails. So, I am inclined to think that I need to spread some TW25B (or some other synthetic grease) on the rails after doing the FL treatment. Am I going down the wrong path here? | |||
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About the only really wrong lube practice is to mix lubes. Pick what you like, change it if you want, experiment forever - but DO NOT USE TWO DIFFERENT LUBES AT THE SAME TIME ON THE SAME PARTS. sorry for shouting. | |||
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Is a light coat of oil (CLP) on the slide and rails OK if I am using TW25B grease on them ? | |||
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Yes, I was aware of the comments about using 2 different lubes on the same gun. Since TW25B is a synthetic, non-petroleum mixture, I thought it might co-exist with FrogLube without any bad consequences. So if I stick with FrogLube, which is already on the P238, would it be recommended to add an extra, visible coating of FL on the rails? | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief  |
In case anyone is wondering thought I'd report been using EEZOX only my 239 228 cleaned them yesterday and report no galling or any wear on the rails. What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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I would not. FrogLube is a "complete" product that should not have anything applied over it, even if it is another synthetic. If you like the results with it then apply a little each time you use the gun (notice I said use rather than clean) | |||
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Damn...20 years of shooting and I been lubing my guns all wrong.  | |||
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To follow up on the discussion about the Lubriplate 105 white grease, I called Lubriplate and talked to a guy on their technical support phone line. He said that the two different part numbers for the 10 ounce (5/8 of a pound) tubes of grease are the same product. They are just named differently and therefore have different part numbers: C-105 Outboard Gear L0034-092 C-105 Motor Assembly L0034-094 I was able to find a 10 oz. tube of the Motor Assembly Grease in stock, on the shelf at my local NAPA auto parts store. It is white in color. The NAPA part number is 765-2651 and it says Lubriplate No. 105 on the tube. I figure that $7.99 bought me enough grease for several lifetimes. The tube is fairly large – about 9” long. The pictures I saw of the tube did not give me a good sense of how big the tube actually is. | |||
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That's a good question. I started using CLP for cleaning after buying my Sig. I honestly never thought about a problem arising from using 2 different lubes. | |||
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I've recently purchased a used P226 (a nice KA from iAMMO) which arrived in a pretty clean/dry condition... Should I detail strip this baby to be sure it's properly lubed? I've read through Flork's lubrication thread several times (and have searched with as many keywords as I can think of) and have yet to find information on the benefits/drawbacks of - a little drop/dab of oil or grease here and there. (I know-not on the firing pin). trickedtrix posted this question on the lube thread back in Aug '09 - "Flork, I'd love to hear your advice for oil points on a SIG - generally I put a drop of break-free on the hammer and wipe it around the entire mechanism with a q-tip. Any other areas you recommend?" As far as I know - Flork never responded. Does anyone put additional oil or grease on the parts of the pistol exposed by just field stripping and removing the grips? What about new pistols?This message has been edited. Last edited by: HawkeyeJohn, | |||
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I am not an expert by any stretch, but I can tell what I do with used Sigs when I buy them. I do a full detail-strip and then hit everything with Gun Scrubber for a deep cleaning and degreasing. Then I use my fingers to rub a thin coat of grease on all the internals, taking care to leave the firing pin, firing pin channel, and breech face dry. Then I reassemble the frame and hit it inside and out with CLP, then wipe away excess. Next I reassemble the slide and hit it all over with CLP, wiping away the excess. Again, avoid the firing pin, FP channel, and breech face. Next I coat the inside of the barrel in a light coat of oil, and the outside of the barrel in a light coat of grease. Finally, I grease the rails per Flork's recommendations and reassemble the gun. After a final wipedown, I'm good to go. The end result is that essentially every surface of every part on the gun is lubed with either grease, oil, or CLP, except for the FP, FP channel, and breech face. Again , I am not a pro so take my advice for what it's worth. | |||
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