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modification of opinion; trigger mechanism=Wilson Combat ultima lube slide and area the barrel crosses in the frame= TWB-25, the stuff Sig puts in the case. the outside CLP or anything made especially to inhibit rust. Unfortunately the Wilsons and TWB-25 is costly and if I shot frequently I would probably just use Breakfree LP on everything. | |||
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Strongly recommend you use FrogLube on barrel only. Prolonged use finally caused problems. After reading Pat Rogers testimonial on SLIP 2000... I am a convert.  This message has been edited. Last edited by: SilverWolf, | |||
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I just purchased a SP2022. Any differences in the rail lubing with the polymer frame and the metal slide? Oh, and I will never buy another FDE color gun....way too easy to see all the carbon residue.  Montana - The Last Best Place | |||
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I agree that what is shown is too much grease. You do not want to slow down the slide with the stuff, particularly in colder weather. A good grease will protect adequately with a thin layer. You're not trying to fill all voids with the stuff, just get a film evenly distributed. I'd be as careful not to over grease as I would to under grease. mz | |||
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I see Lubriplate mentioned many times through out this thread, so would it be safe to assume that my old standby Outer's Gunslick would work as well? It seems like Lubriplate w/ graphite. Downside to some folks is the black residue on hands and gear, but I just am a little more judicious with the application, concentrating on wear points for heavier application. Upside is almost universal availability, reasonable cost, and seems to work well. BTW, thanks for a really great and informative thread! Jim Edit: Sorry I did not do a search initially for Gunslick (still getting used to the forum functions!) I will probably continue using the product for reasons mentioned and I have learned to "live with it" over the years. | |||
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Graphite should not be used on aluminum and steel as it can cause corrosion. Better, cheaper options abound. | |||
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Clay, never heard that, but until my P227, all my firearms have been blued steel and walnut (or stag if pistols!) | |||
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Flork: [QUOTE]Originally posted by Jupiter: Thanks for the good info and the pics. For Open Carry EDC like cops do, you gotta start thinking a bit more. I've had a couple of cops bring me their Duty Sigs for work and I've been astonished at what I've found. When I cocked the hammer of one of them, I found 3 pieces off bitten of finger nail and a corner of plastic from a plastic ketchup packet....I mean WTF MAN!!! Clean your freakin gun. I asked how long it thad been since he last cleaned it and he told me it had been a couple years, "I hardly ever use it, I figured it was still pretty clean" was his excuse. His gun was absolutely bone dry, I actually found dust on the frame rails as opposed to lube. It's a good thing he seldom used it. As a retired LEO I find this VERY irresponsible behavior. Our Dept. required semiannual qualification with mandatory time at the cleaning stations afterwards. Periodic weapon inspection was performed without prior notice. A dirty weapon during inspection would mean a low score in the "knowledge of equipment" category of your annual evaluation. Thanks for the info. Our Dept. never used Sigs and I never owned one until retirement so this post has been VERY informative to me. GOD, Family, Country | |||
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I use TW25 spray. Wilson Combat grease , which looks more and has the viscosity of oil, and Hoppes grease more like Vaseline. How redundant am I? Hoppes only on the main spring. Wilson on the slide. TW25 everything else. Plain gun oil and Flitz on the exterior. | |||
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Phew. A lot of catching up to do. I am down to my last two guns salvaged after the fire, a P220 and a P225. They are disassembled more than field strip but less than "detail stripped", cleaned, heavily oiled and sealed up in baggies. Looks like I should take them the rest of the way apart, clean off the oil, lightly grease the action parts and heavily grease the rails; per the approach now shown on the Apex www. | |||
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I totally agree with your choice of Ballistol. I got rid of others, except for Fire Clean on silencers and A/R Bolt Carrier Groups. | |||
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My experiments with commercially available (non-gun specific) grease continue. Shot 100 rounds of 9mm 115gr reloads in the new P226 after lubing it with Mobilgrease 28, an aviation product, and noted virtually no wear -- that is, no shiny areas on the rails and no smileys on the barrel. These things usually appear early in the life of a P-series Sig and then sort of settle in. I also greased up the P229 and put in the freezer for 4 hours. Taking it out, I racked the slide a number of times -- no noticeable difference from when the gun is at room temperature (I did not shoot the frozen gun because I didn't want to crack the frame or slide...). Hillbilly science, perhaps, but confirms my biases towards using top-quality commercial grease. I am also going to try Mobile SHC 100, which is a "true" synthetic. A 14.5 oz. tube of this stuff will last a lifetime -- $15. Here is the Mobil writeup on Mobilgrease 12:
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I get the lubrication value of Mobilgrease 28, Mobile SHC 100, LUCAS Red "N" Tacky #2 but I've long been curious on how their long term anti-rust and anti-oxidation capabilities compare with the more popular CLPs and gun greases that are touted for firearms applications. I have seen one "CLP-type" shootout which included Pennzoil Synthetic but that product failed the corrosion test within 24 hours. Can anyone speak to the protection potential of these "grease" products with authority? Non immemor beneficii / Crom a Boo / Islam delenda est | |||
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I hadn't thought much about that, since I am using Breakfree CLP on the entire gun and Breakfree LP on the trigger group. The grease is going primarily on the rails and two or three main points on the barrel. The Mobilegrease 28 data sheet claims "Excellent protection against wear and corrosion" and touts its ability to withstand washout. I did run an experiment with Breakfree and Mobilgrease 28 mixed together... little I can see at the visual level except they mix - no idea what is going on at the chemical level. I am thinking that using greases like this is fine for short-term storage and for the range, but I don't know how it works for holster carry on an EDC basis. I can say that over a period of a couple days, the Mobilgrease 28 does not migrate or move (whereas Breakfree tends to collect on the front of the gun if I put a bit too much on - as I store the guns in a rack). Grease seems to work well on my reloading press. I previously oiled it with light machine oil, which makes it very smooth but tends to get pushed off the piston quickly. I applied Mobilith SHC 100 grease and it stays in place longer -- although the piston does not move quite as freely. | |||
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Sig P226 American manufacture Purchased: 10-08-11 Rounds of .40 through it = 3,650 Rounds of .22 through it = 20,702 (.22 conversion kit) Virtually no wear using TW25B exclusively. Not kidding or exaggerating. I lube up front of rails so that a little comes out the back of the slide, then make sure rails are completely covered in it. Also clean gun after each outing. Very satisfied with it's performance. My original .22 conversion kit pooped out at around the 19,700 mark, and got another one. | |||
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I have neither the comparative expertise nor demonstrable data to argue for or against many of the preferences that are widely described in firearms forums, but I'm quite the skeptic when it comes to manufacturer's claims about C, L & P comparative performance(s). Here is a fairly extensive head-to-head which raised my eyebrows a number of times: Results of diyguy's Gun Care Product Evaluation - both in terms of products which failed and products which excelled. Non immemor beneficii / Crom a Boo / Islam delenda est | |||
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I’ve been using Lubriplate and CLP on my 226’s. I think I’m applying a bit too much as I’m periodically having to wipe-off the residue oozing out the slide rails and what not. I also find that after 500 – 1000 rounds at the range the ammo residue mixes in with the lubricants to the point it become a gunk and the slide doesn’t slide all the way back, especially with my .22LR Beavertail Classic. When is 0 degrees outside its even worse. So I’m going to do a test and do what one of the members said and that is lightly apply a thin coat using my fingers on all the internals and see how that works the next time out. | |||
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TW-25 is what sig recommends, it dries to a more waxy substance.when you take the Sig down you should notice a build up from Sig in the mainspring. | |||
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I use TW25B on slide and rails. Clean with 91% rubbing alcohol, then clean again with CLP, then one more time with the alcohol. I want the rail and slides completely degreased and bone dry before applying the TW25B. I "know" how much to put on front of each side of slide so just a small amount pushes out the back of the slide. No waste - use that excess with Q-tip to apply to other wear areas inside of slide. | |||
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Grease on the rails is critical, and I strongly recommend a synthetic lube, and not an oil on those surfaces in particular. I am biased but a true grease is ideal like Tetra Gun Grease. | |||
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