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| quote: Originally posted by critterdoc:
I'd appreciate your thoughts on submerging slides and receivers (field stripped) in water based ultrasonic cleaning solution in an ultrasonic cleaner. My limiited personal experience with the inexpensive 2.5 Liter Chicago Electric table top unit available from Harbor Freight and Sharpertek 725 Gun Cleaner convinces me that these devices can strip the separated metal parts of an AR bolt carrier group so well that rapid application of a protectant, such as some form of CLP or grease is essential to prevent flash corrosion.
That said, I'm wondering if available ultrasound lubricants such as Crest CC-400L Ultrasonic Lubricant or Sharpertek Ultrasonic Gun Lubricant would adequately PROTECT the internal components of a "field stripped" slide and receiver that had been first cleaned in water based ultrasonic cleaning solution such as Sharpertek 725 and Crest CC-235 Ultrasonic cleaner.
Do these ultrasound lubricants provide enough corrosion protection to stand on their own in the internal parts of the slide and receiver if they are used on a regular basis?
Lastly, Crest CC-235 and CC-400L are both labeled "Powerfully Removes Gun Powder, Carbon Dirt & Oil In Just Minutes; Leaves Entire Firearm Clean & Lubricated." What is the functional difference between the two products?
I use Ed's Red in my ultrasonic cleaner (minus the acetone). That does a decent job of cleaning while leaving behind a coating of ATF for lube. I blast it with my compressor to get rid of the excess. |
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| Thanks very much. Your work is greatly appreciated. Peace. |
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| Does this same cleaning regimen apply to alloy-framed Sig 1911's as well? |
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| You have to love this sticky and this forum. We seem to have the grease vs oil issue down and to use a lot of it. The longer this thread goes the more I learn. Lubriplate 105 from NAPA is adequate? I have been using Weapon Shield in the past and it’s expensive. I watched the http://www.sigsauer.com/Custom...intenanceGuides.aspxAs the tech was dry brushing the slide I’m thinking he has no idea how much grease Flork’s suggest. You would not be able to dry brush that grease out. We have the lubrication aspect, what about how to clean all that grease out? From one post it looks like some of the grease the metal has to be cleaned with rubbing alcohol before applying so it adheres. Flork’s how about some cleaning information? Even better, can you do a vid like the Sig guy does? |
| | | Posts: 40 | Location: USA | Registered: March 19, 2011 | 
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| quote: Originally posted by jeeper:
What about good old graphite grease for the rails? It was always my understanding it has the ability to fill in the metal microscopic areas and leave a very slick running surface.
DanL
Clinically diagnosed sigophant
I concur. my new to me AE P229 has moderate wearing on the frame rails. So I also thought that the Extreme Pressure Moly-Graph grease that I picked up at Harbor Freight (along with a mini 3oz grease gun) would fit the application. "Provides compounded protection with molybdenum and graphite to establish a fine micron plating on all working surfaces and withstand heavy load, water attack and shock loads. Use for automotive, industrial,...slides,...and more..." The 14oz tube for $4 should last me years. And it's black, which is nice. |
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| quote: Originally posted by Flork:
I use grease on everything, including the barrel and the internals.
Thank you for the lubrication guide. It's been a great help to me. I am currently using Mil-Comm TW25B on my P229. |
| | | Posts: 17 | Location: Central California Coast | Registered: August 13, 2011 |
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| quote: Originally posted by GreyCoupe:
Surprised the Frog Lube-ers haven't chimed in...
I use it on my 238, 226, and p30. 0 malfunctions so far. Main reason I use it is because I fondle my guns ALOT and I hate having residue on my hands. All of the greases/CLPs i've used always get everywhere.
P238/P226
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| | | Posts: 12 | Location: Houston | Registered: April 26, 2011 |
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addicted to trailing-throttle oversteer
| For rail lubrication I've begun using Loctite. Seriously. C5-A Anti-Seize lubricant. Copper-based. Looks exactly like the stuff Glock uses when they lube up their shiny...er...new guns at the factory...well, most of the time. My NIB G23 barely had a whiff of the stuff. Now rectified it has more than its fair share. Works great so far. My P229R is about due for a cleaning; will probably give this stuff a try on a SIG. Somehow seems like sacrilege. 1 oz tube (comes in bottles as well) |
| | | Posts: 8983 | Location: Drippin' wet | Registered: April 18, 2010 |
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addicted to trailing-throttle oversteer
| quote: Originally posted by GremlinMT:
I dunno about antiseize. I actually use this stuff for it's intended purpose or lubricated coarse metal threads on pipe fittings. It does a good job on iron pipe, but when used on aluminium boxes using steel bolts, it tends to bind things up. Having never used it on a gun, I recommend caution.
Good point about dissimilar metals; didn't even cross my mind. With Glocks where the rail points are steel and a copper-based a/s is ideal, which is probably why Glock uses the stuff from the factory. Not so with an alloy SIG though I would think that a SS frame would be another matter. I've used Jet-Lube 500 moly a/s with automotive parts to great effectiveness; handles all conditions flawlessly and works with all sorts of dissimilar materials against one another. Since I've already got a bunch of the Jet-Lube in my shop, I think I'll give that a try instead on one of my alloy pistols and see what happens. |
| | | Posts: 8983 | Location: Drippin' wet | Registered: April 18, 2010 |
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| Out of curiosity, I have been using Lubriplate for the past year and just got back into Sigs, and have barely any Lubriplate left. It works great, but it is white. Are any of these greases' that are good black and less noticeable?
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"...to disarm the people - that was the best and most effectual way to enslave them." - George Mason
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| | | Posts: 1228 | Location: Evans, GA | Registered: September 27, 2010 |
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The stuff I'm using is clear.