I used it before but don't like the smell. Almost too sticky for me but it works fine. No ones reinventing the wheel here. A good grease that stays in place is what I like. Lately I've been using some bicycle bearing grease I had laying around from when mountain biked often. Been working great.

I had my pressed steel slide 220 lubed with Sentry Solution years ago. I used this as my night stand gun but took it to the range a couple of times. clean up is just brushing out and applying a couple of dabs of the grease and wiping down with the impregnated tru cloth. It never showed any wear on the slide or any where else. The powder seems to make the trigger slick while the grease applicaion took care of the rails. For those POs that never clean or lube their duty equipment it seems like a better choice as it doesn't dry out and they can keep the impregnated cloth in their brief case or whatever they call their bags these days and give the exterior an occasional wipe down. I don't know if the sentry greas does the job on a pistol with a stainless slide. No one sells it and I got it at a gun show as there was a mom and pop who would degrease your pistol and apply the various forms throughout. for a couple of bucks if you just happen to have your pistol with you. Or you can buy it and take it home. Their big sales pitch was that Navy SEAL used it because it protects metal even from salt water. I use RIG grease on my SS gun rails and TW25 on all the other rubbing parts. I usually field strip and give the whole thing a blast of CLP, wipe down and assemble before a range seession. PS: before applying sentry the metal has to be degreased with rubbing alcohol. If you apply on lubed metal I imagine it will make one nasty mess. Sorry for rambling on but I find it peculiar that no one posting mentioned Sentry.

quote:

I had my pressed steel slide 220 lubed with Sentry Solution years ago. I used this as my night stand gun but took it to the range a couple of times. clean up is just brushing out and applying a couple of dabs of the grease and wiping down with the impregnated tru cloth. It never showed any wear on the slide or any where else. The powder seems to make the trigger slick while the grease applicaion took care of the rails. For those POs that never clean or lube their duty equipment it seems like a better choice as it doesn't dry out and they can keep the impregnated cloth in their brief case or whatever they call their bags these days and give the exterior an occasional wipe down. I don't know if the sentry greas does the job on a pistol with a stainless slide. No one sells it and I got it at a gun show as there was a mom and pop who would degrease your pistol and apply the various forms throughout. for a couple of bucks if you just happen to have your pistol with you. Or you can buy it and take it home. Their big sales pitch was that Navy SEAL used it because it protects metal even from salt water. I use RIG grease on my SS gun rails and TW25 on all the other rubbing parts. I usually field strip and give the whole thing a blast of CLP, wipe down and assemble before a range seession. PS: before applying sentry the metal has to be degreased with rubbing alcohol. If you apply on lubed metal I imagine it will make one nasty mess. Sorry for rambling on but I find it peculiar that no one posting mentioned Sentry.

from what i could gather, there was some usuful information in this, but when you don't have control of font size...the paragraph is your friend.

not everyone can write like Stephen Crane

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Flork:

Flork, have you run across a DuPont product known as ACCROLUBE(R). It is a PTFE (teflon) green colored grease of which I have a considerable amount. I've been using it on the rails and slide of my SIGs (as well as on the hammer and sear) for awhile. Seems to be a great product. I have dozens of 4cc tubes lying around.

I've been using breakfree on my xfive everywhere, the gun sees at least 300 rounds a week and gets cleaned and lubed once a week. Would switching to grease make sense?

i would make your gun last longer

quote:

Originally posted by VMAN:
Does anyone use high temp wheel bearing grease? I was watching a video on youtube and the guy (James Yeager) from Tactical Response says that gun grease companies are basicly repackaging grease and marking it up.

I use it, works very well. It seems no more sticky then Slide Glide or other Grade 2 greases on the market.

9mmepiphany, the gun runs wet, and gets lightly lubed before every practice session. I am not sure if switching to grease is going to offer me any better protection, given that the gun is cared for regularly... and breakfree tends to stay put for the entire session (slide and frame rails are visibly wet). So is grease a better option still?

My main issue with grease is regular cleaning for a competition pistol is a bit more tedious (read as needing more quetips), and it tends to suspend larger particulate matter of which i am not a fan.

I do use lithium grease on my rifles, but for pistols that see a lot more use it seems breakfree or something similar might work just as well and be lower effort.

what do others do for their competition guns?

I would use a very very light grease or a relatively thick oil on the X-5. They're so tightly fitted that grease will tend to attenuate slide velocity, causing malfunctions. Just keep it very well oiled. If you're shooting a match, add a few drops before a stage.

is breakfree clp good enough or should i be looking for something else?

Breakfree works great for that.

quote:

Originally posted by simarXFive:
is breakfree clp good enough or should i be looking for something else?

Try Corrosion X. Better in every aspect. If corrosion resistance is not important, then try FP-10. Best oil lubricant I've ever used. Have not tested Weapon Shield yet.

Hi Mr. Flork . My question was partially answered but do you mind a quick clarification? I hope not!!

The pictures show you placing the lube on the frame rails. I believe it was then mentioned that afte the frame is 'greased' the slide is put on the gun, manually cycled a couple times and the excess wiped off the SIDES leaving the grease on the underside and top of the rails.

I'm unclear here: Do you place the lube ONLY ON THE FRAME RAILS? Or, after a good cleaning, do you ALSO APPLY THE GREASE to the portions on the SLIDE that oppose the greased areas of the FRAME?

I guess a better way of asking is: FRAME gets the GREASE and then when the SLIDE IS INSTALLED the grease from the frame transferrs to the proper areas on the SLIDE?

My old brain is looking at it two ways and both seem OK ..... but the OVER-LUBING and HYDRO-LOCKING warning caused me concern.

Thank you young man and glad you have survived California long enough to allow you to return to SF. Your humorour yet knowledge laden help is somehow easier for me to grasp. Yes, some day, you too will be ancient ( youknow, like over 40!).

Anyone else from Bruce's Band of Brothers who cares to chime in with a reply also has my sincere THANKS for clearing up my self-made dilemma. You guys (including the departed child) are great folks!

quote:

Originally posted by TheEgg:

quote:

Wiping out the oil from the rail with a q-tip and reapplying some grease should only take all of 5 minutes ~ not an afternoon.

Two points:

1. You have never seen the inside of my gunsafe, right? Even if I can do it as fast as you say, 34 pistols X 5 minutes = 170 minutes = 2.83 hours. Seems to me that takes up most of a Sunday afternoon.
2. More importantly, it seemed to me to be a wonderful excuse to fondle work on some guns -- you don't want to rush something like that, you know!

Amen to that! I only have three sigs currently and after a long day of shooting with freinds, taking a couple hours to relax and clean/lube my sigs is a great way to wrap up the day.

On another note all this talk about Glocks is irrelivent. The design and materials are different. In addition, I have owned a glock 23 and I so wanted to love that pistol but the truth is after firing mostly sigs for 15 years no matter how hard I tried I just could not come to enjoy shooting the Glock. I loved the high capacity. I loved the look. I liked the grip and the general idea behind the design but when it came to shooting it I just hated it. I will also mention their stock site design is one of the most user freindly I have ever used. In addition, it would be very difficult for anyone to convince me that NOT lubricating a Glock is a good idea. I have heard so many times people talking about Glocks that have been fired 10,000 rounds or more with out cleaning and with out lube as if that is such a great things. I just shake my head in disgust and think about how much longer that same pistols life would be with proper routine cleaning and proper lubrication. At a minimim if you have a Glock please clean it routinely and at least lube the critical points such as the disconnector.

What bothers me most about not enjoying the Glock is that I think they have good customer service and have seen company representatives repair friends pistols free of charge replacing any parts that are worn or malfunctioning. More gun companies should provide this service. I also like that thier design comming to market was innovative. They also make the cheapest reliable 10mm platform around. There are many good things about Glocks I just don't enjoy shooting them or the many stories about thier reliability that may be true but just don't seem to suggest good gun maintenance advice.

I am sure that one day I will give the mighty Glock another chance. For now I am happy with my sigs.

I shot my freinds new P229 Equinox this weekend chambered in .40 and it was the softest recoiling .40 I have ever shot. It was noticably softer than my own P229. I know we where shooting similar 165 grain bullets. After thinking about this I found it completely baffling. The only reason I could think his shot like butter was maybe the Georgia Arms loads had less recoil. If anyone has any expeirence with differrent 165 grain .40 cal loads please tell me if you have felt a noticable difference. Finally the reason that I am bringing this up is after reading this thread I believe that maybe the grease he is using on the rails is slowing down the slide speed and possibly softening up the reciol. I would love to hear thoughts on this. I was using T25 grease and my freind was using the Weapon Shield Grease. After playing around with the Weapon Shield Grease it seems like it has some great properties for use on hand guns. I noticed it is VERY tacky and it has a nice elastic feel to it. It sounds kind of like the slide glide has similar properties but maybe more so.

As soon as I have some time, I am going to do some testing to try the Weapon Shield grease on my P229 chambered in .357 sig and compare it to the T25 to see if I find a difference in the way it shoots. If it seems there is a difference, I will re-run the test with a borrowed .40 barrel. I suspect there will be a noticable difference. I am going to let a few other people fire it also so that it is not just my opinion... maybe I will make it a blind test.

Hey Flork, thanks again for the tips. Looking forward to your recommendations for lubing the internals.

quote:

Originally posted by SmokeJumper:
Hi Mr. Flork . My question was partially answered but do you mind a quick clarification? I hope not!!

The pictures show you placing the lube on the frame rails. I believe it was then mentioned that afte the frame is 'greased' the slide is put on the gun, manually cycled a couple times and the excess wiped off the SIDES leaving the grease on the underside and top of the rails.

I'm unclear here: Do you place the lube ONLY ON THE FRAME RAILS? Or, after a good cleaning, do you ALSO APPLY THE GREASE to the portions on the SLIDE that oppose the greased areas of the FRAME?

I guess a better way of asking is: FRAME gets the GREASE and then when the SLIDE IS INSTALLED the grease from the frame transferrs to the proper areas on the SLIDE?

My old brain is looking at it two ways and both seem OK ..... but the OVER-LUBING and HYDRO-LOCKING warning caused me concern.

Thank you young man and glad you have survived California long enough to allow you to return to SF. Your humorour yet knowledge laden help is somehow easier for me to grasp. Yes, some day, you too will be ancient ( youknow, like over 40!).

Anyone else from Bruce's Band of Brothers who cares to chime in with a reply also has my sincere THANKS for clearing up my self-made dilemma. You guys (including the departed child) are great folks!

I allow the grease on the rails to get on the slide where it's necessary. I've found that when you grease the slide as opposed to the frame, the inside of the dust cover gets filled with grease.

Adding grease to both would do it too, but you're gonna end up wiping out most of that.

Flork,

I'm feeling better about my grease practice after seeing this. Now for the big question (please!!!!): Would you also do your suggestions for the P7 and the Glock with pictures (I understand the Glock is coming but I'm interested in buying a P7 police buyback too). Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by Flork:
I allow the grease on the rails to get on the slide where it's necessary. I've found that when you grease the slide as opposed to the frame, the inside of the dust cover gets filled with grease.

Adding grease to both would do it too, but you're gonna end up wiping out most of that.

Thanks Scott, I appreciate the clarification. I've been wasting a LOT of grease!

Excellent post, Flork! All this time i thought i was lubing too much, turns out it wasn't enough!

Anything different about lubing up a HK USP Compact (or even Glocks, any pistols with the "4 rail" system)? I found when i add even close to that much lube on my USPc, there's TONS of excess left on the frame between the rail contact points.

I'm sure just wiping this off would do, but is there a better method to avoid so much waste?

EDIT: oh, p.s., i'm using TW-25B.

quote:

Originally posted by Flork:
I allow the grease on the rails to get on the slide where it's necessary. I've found that when you grease the slide as opposed to the frame, the inside of the dust cover gets filled with grease.

Excuse my ignorance but I can't say I've ever seen a reference to a 'dust cover' in any Sig drawings or manuals.

So where exactly is the 'dust cover' on a Sig?