All C-105 is not equal. I called them today.

Are you for real? My sig 239 has about 6000 rounds thru it now over 14 years of use. I only use a good gun oil and never, naver more than a drop on each rail smear it with a cotton swap install the slide and rack a few times. My leather holster is not dicolored or warped because of excess lube. It might be worth noting that the weapon has never had any kind of malfunction and very little wear on original finsh.

For what it's worth, up here in the Northwet (northwest) I use simple Marine Wheel Bearing grease from the local fred meyer store (Kroger for you east coasties)

It's a light, high temp, grease that has protectants in it to preserve metal against corrosion. In this wet environment, it really helps and even makes my M4 run way past any oil lubricated gun.

I've been told numerous times that here in the southwest desert of arizona, go ez on the lube - it holds the fine grained particles of sand blowing around all the time, which will be the equivalent of sand paper on moving parts.

Any guidelines for us desert rats?

quote:

Originally posted by MikeChandler:
I've been told numerous times that here in the southwest desert of arizona, go ez on the lube - it holds the fine grained particles of sand blowing around all the time, which will be the equivalent of sand paper on moving parts.

Any guidelines for us desert rats?

Well, there's a rub for you desert folks.

It's been proven that dirty guns will still run when wet. The way it works is: Dry + dirty = bad. Dirty + wet = still runs. Dry + clean = runs a little bit before stopping. Wet + clean = runs great.

In the end, it still ends up that wet is where the gun needs to be.

The problem is that the tests that have proven this (i.e. the infamous sand tests) were done on govt. guns where the functioning of the gun was more important then it's lifespan. You are correct that lube will "capture" dirt and sand and then basically turn itself into a really crappy wet sandpaper, but it WILL keep the gun running while at the same time lessening its lifespan due to the increased wear.

You, being a Civilain shooter who is interested in keeping your guns running for a long time and who does worry about the lifespan of the firearm because you simply cannot just go check another one out of the arms room, must worry about these issues.

That being said, i'd suggest running the gun wet (grease) and avoid getting sand in it if you can. Don't unecessarily expose the guns to windy/sandy conditions if you can get out of it. And unless you're doing training classes, this should be relativly easy to do as a casual/recreational shooter.

After an hour of searching for the best deal on white lithium grease, I found that Ace Hardware stores stocks this for less than $4.00 for 1.25oz tubes. This is a no-brainer. Much less $ than the Lubriplate product.
http://www.acehardware.com/pro...5693&clickid=prod_cs

Just purchased my first gun, a Sig P229 E2 . It has been great! I've read Flork's excellent guides but I have just a couple other questions.

I field strip and clean my gun after each trip to the range, but how often should I be breaking apart the frame and cleaning/lubing the internals?

Also, what parts of the slide do NOT get oil? I understand it should stay away from the firing pin area. What about that silver rail under the firing pin? Do I oil the ramp that ammo slides on on its way into the barrel? Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by jbattle47:
I field strip and clean my gun after each trip to the range, but how often should I be breaking apart the frame and cleaning/lubing the internals?

Never.

So then whats the deal with the second part of Flork's lubrication guide? Sorry for the noob questions

DESIGNER GREASE GUN



2 parts are required:

1) Jorgensen Plastic Teat Cannula $10.00/100. Durable, flexible, 1.5 in long. Approximately $10/100 on the web or less at a local farm (cattle) supply store if kept in stock.
infusion cannula
infusion cannula

2) Any brand of "twist on 3ml luer-lock Syringe w/o Needle will do. Twist cannula tightly onto hub of syringe. Be sure is luer-lock and not slip-lock.
Very inexpensive if you can find locally are source such as animal feed store, your friendly local vet, drug store, etc.

I'd be happy to help if "parts" cannot be found but as a new member I am unable to find a PM option whereby I could be contacted without posting my personal email address.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: critterdoc,

I have found a Crayon type Grease Pen used for screen doors and windows applies alot easier less mess and stays where ya put it stops galling and friction does not seem to attract much dirt either that's a plus for me ! Called a glide stick I belive

The ever present debate about gun cleaning. Two weeks ago I attended a carbine class. We rolled around in the dirt and dust all day playing solder. Fun, perhaps not the best use of my training dollars, but whatever. My 239 rode on my hip the whole day. It even got shot about 15 times. At the end of the day, the gun was dirty, no doubt about that! I had dirt on both ends of the frame rails, but surprisingly little inside the gun on bearing surfaces. No excess wear. I simply wiped off everything with a rag, the grease made it easy as the dirt sticks to the rag better. Then I used a CLP spray can into the clock works. Ran a boresnake through it, regreased, and put it back in the holster.

Somebody that only goes to the square range might feel like it is a chore to clean their gun. I usually need something to do while the brass is in the tumbler.

I spend more time touching my gun than I spend touching my wife. I don't look at touching the wife or the gun as a chore.

quote:

Originally posted by capp325:

quote:

Originally posted by jbattle47:
I field strip and clean my gun after each trip to the range, but how often should I be breaking apart the frame and cleaning/lubing the internals?

Never.

Hmmm... I recently put some new G-10 grips on my P226 and noticed that it's pretty dirty in there. How do I clean and lube the "guts" without disassembley.?

I would use Gun Scrubber aerosol cleaner. Some say brake cleaner is the same, which it is NOT. Brake cleaner is a different chemical composition,extremely flammable and of course cheap, cheap, cheap. After cleaning, spray with Sheath/Barricade or even Break Free CLP. Once the excess is wiped off, lube with TW25b using fine paint brush and you will be close to factory lube job.

quote:

Originally posted by Mountain Walker:
I would use Gun Scrubber aerosol cleaner. Some say brake cleaner is the same, which it is NOT. Brake cleaner is a different chemical composition,extremely flammable and of course cheap, cheap, cheap.

...and brake cleaners, carb & throttle body cleaners, etc., are IMHO potentially toxic. I suspect that the most common form of "cleaning chemical" toxicity is by inhalation of vapors and submit that "parts should be cleaned [soaked] in a sealed container so the cleaner/solvent won't evaporate [into the immediate atmosphere] and that one should avoid breathing fumes. As importantly, effective ventilation should be provided provided when using these types of volatiles for any significant period of time and disposable gloves likewise seem a no brainer with these types of chemical agents if one wants to play it safe.

Most carburetor cleaners, brake cleaners and or throttle body cleaners, contain variable amounts of potentially toxic or ignitable solvents which are IMO of dubious safety particularly when used with any frequency:



Typical First Aid Measures warnings include:
1) Eye Contact: Immediately flush with plenty of water for 15 minutes. Call a physician if irritation persists.
2) Skin Contact: Remove contaminated clothing and wash affected area with soap and water. Call a physician if irritation persists. Wash contaminated clothing prior to re-use.
3) Inhalation: Remove person to fresh air. Keep person calm. If not breathing, give artificial respiration. If breathing is difficult give oxygen. Call a physician.
4) Ingestion: Seek medical attention. Do not induce vomiting unless instructed by medical personnel. Have victim drink a glass of water if conscious.
• Note to Physicians: This material is an aspiration hazard. This material (or a component) has produced hyperglycemia and ketosis following substantial ingestion. Inhalation of high concentrations of this material may be associated with cardiac arrhythmias.
[items #3 & #4 would almost seem like a Chinese Fire Drill in the privacy if a home if they were not so serious]

Another consideration is that some of these vapors are heavier than air & may travel to ignition sources.

quote:

Originally posted by capp325:

quote:

Originally posted by jbattle47:
I field strip and clean my gun after each trip to the range, but how often should I be breaking apart the frame and cleaning/lubing the internals?

Never.

Every 2000 rounds of 9 months for and EDC.

quote:

Originally posted by Flork:
Personally, I've never used any solvent on my Sigs when cleaning them.....My secret is warm soapy water and a tooth brush. After completely stripping the gun, I just go to town with the tooth brush and clean it all out. For cleaning the barrel, I use the Ultrasonic cleaner with the Brownell's fluid for the barrel. Here's a link for the fluid we use. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...5_ULTRASONIC_CLEANER

I'd appreciate your thoughts on submerging slides and receivers (field stripped) in water based ultrasonic cleaning solution in an ultrasonic cleaner. My limiited personal experience with the inexpensive 2.5 Liter Chicago Electric table top unit available from Harbor Freight and Sharpertek 725 Gun Cleaner convinces me that these devices can strip the separated metal parts of an AR bolt carrier group so well that rapid application of a protectant, such as some form of CLP or grease is essential to prevent flash corrosion.

That said, I'm wondering if available ultrasound lubricants such as Crest CC-400L Ultrasonic Lubricant or Sharpertek Ultrasonic Gun Lubricant would adequately PROTECT the internal components of a "field stripped" slide and receiver that had been first cleaned in water based ultrasonic cleaning solution such as Sharpertek 725 and Crest CC-235 Ultrasonic cleaner.

Do these ultrasound lubricants provide enough corrosion protection to stand on their own in the internal parts of the slide and receiver if they are used on a regular basis?

Lastly, Crest CC-235 and CC-400L are both labeled "Powerfully Removes Gun Powder, Carbon Dirt & Oil In Just Minutes; Leaves Entire Firearm Clean & Lubricated." What is the functional difference between the two products?

I got a new 226 T. Ops. and ordered the Shooters Choice grease for the rails; What do I use for the cleaning/lubricant for the rest of the gun when just field stripped? I have hoppe's bore solvent for barrel
Tex

Flork, apologies if I missed it in this lengthy thread but I use Mil-Comm (http://www.mil-comm.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=51&Itemid=72) products for my P226 care and feeding, any feedback on their stuff?

quote:

Originally posted by Mountain Walker:After cleaning, spray with Sheath/Barricade or even Break Free CLP. Once the excess is wiped off, lube with TW25b using fine paint brush and you will be close to factory lube job.

There is just 1 thing that was left out: After the cleaning and the use of Sheath or Break Free, you must first remove ALL traces of the cleaning solvents with 91% Alcohol before applying the TW25b. The TW25b will not bond to the metal if there is any trace of solvent.
Just wiping it off with a dry rag won't cut it.