For those of you looking for Flork's internal lubrication guide, it can be found at Apex Tactical under the Blog (Older items).

http://www.apextactical.com/bl...nternal-lubrication/

Also included is his rail lubrication guide.

Hope this helps.

Grease is not grease, oil is not oil. every technology, and application thereof is different. And you shouldn't mix different products. If you feel you need to, what you're using isn't good enough. The Mil-Comm TW25B is my biased favorite. Check out their new site www.nraguncare.com which is a fundraising effort

Well, I ran out of CLP over the weekend so I decided to use grease on my P228. I used Tetra and now I will be stripping it off. I put it on the slide rails and where the barrel contacts the slide. It turned to a brown paste. It's like it is drying out. I should have known because I put some of it on my Browning Cynergy O/U shotgun last year and it permanently stained the metal. Now I use the old military grease for that and it works great.

My Sig is a 21 year old gun, and with no more wear than it has on it I will continue using CLP. That's all I've used in the seven years I've had it anyway.

quote:

Well, I ran out of CLP over the weekend so I decided to use grease on my P228. I used Tetra and now I will be stripping it off. I put it on the slide rails and where the barrel contacts the slide. It turned to a brown paste.

I have had bad luck with grease gumming up also. I tried a few different brands and different application methods but just gave up.
An almost-imperceptible layer of CLP seems to work flawlessly, and I don't get any wear, so I will stick with that.
I notice the grease afficionadoes somtimes mention that they clean every 200-400 rounds. I'll bet I go 2000 rounds without cleaning sometimes. (Yeah, I am lazy) Maybe that accounts for some of the differences in success with grease.
For me "cleaning" means run the CLP wetted boresnake through it twice and rub the rails with a CLP-dipped Q-tip.

I barely can find time enough to shoot, so I can't afford to get too anal about cleaning.

When I got my gun back from Gray Guns I cleaned it with Gunzilla which I always do. I always clean after every shooting and when I go shooting I usually fire between 300-400 rounds straight. Then go home and spray the gunzilla. I have never used grease. Is their anything wrong with what I'm doing.

quote:

Originally posted by SP Tiger:
Well, I ran out of CLP over the weekend so I decided to use grease on my P228. I used Tetra and now I will be stripping it off. I put it on the slide rails and where the barrel contacts the slide. It turned to a brown paste. It's like it is drying out.

I had the same problem with Tetra. I switched over to TW25B grease and it's been perfect ever since. There are times where it will sit for many months and it stays where I put it and keeps it's original viscosity.

Flork- Maybe i missed it...But what grease do you personally use on your edc handgun? Do you use the same grease for slide and internals?

When I bought my Mosquito new last year, it came with a sample tube of TW25 B. I can put 500 rounds thru it, and there is still plenty of grease left on the rails.

I just bought a P220. It was a CPO, and no sample grease came with it, but since I have about a 15 year supply of TW25B ( went overboard with stocking up on it) I decided to use it on the P220. I shot the P220 for the first time yesterday, putting about 100 rounds thru it. Today when I broke it down, I was surprised to see the grease almost totally gone. I’m wondering if I just didn’t put enough grease on. Is the P220 harder on grease than a Mosquito?

You grease guys are creepy. If your gun is smok'n it doesn't take that long to don some leather gloves and give it a quick spray lube?

And if your gun is smok'n why weren't you wearing leather gloves in the first place?

Thanks Flork. I definitely learned some stuff. I think I now understand why my 226 came with a (small) tube of mil-comm.

I am fairly new but need some advice and opinions on cleaning / lubing my new P220R. I have been using MPro7 to clean my 1911 and Tetra grease to lube the rails and slide. It worked fairly well.

I have been a Sig fan since 1986 when a friend on the SERT team (Corrections) let me try out his P245. I was very impressed. I just now got around to buying a Sig P220R and, I pick it up on the 28th. If I am as happy with it as I think I will be I will be purchasing a new Sig P220 carry.

I was just wanting your opinions on what I use for cleaning and lubing and, if there are any better products to use on my new sig, please let me know. Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by Flork:
The only Sigs that I recommend oil only on, are the X-5 Series and the P210 models. Both have hand fitted slide to frame fits that are extremely tight and don't have large dust clearance cuts on the under side of the rails.

Flork, you say you recommend only oil on the X5s instead of grease? or just use a lighter grease like slide guide (thin or medium) or the lubriplate? What oil would you recommend?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: oh50bmg,

Thanks for your input!

So I'm now confused after reading this post I have a X Five All Around. do I use oil or grease? it came with blue tube of (sig brand grease)I read that on this thred that the rail to frame fit is too tight for grease I should use oil? Opinions needed

What about Break Free CLP? This is the only thing I have ever used to clean and lube my firearms. Seems to work just fine.

Opinions???

@ Jim1911, it confused me as well, I thought he was referring to Sigs with grease and maybe x5 with oil.

I have decided to use break free CLP for cleaning, barrel with MPro7 and lube the rails with either the grease that my sig came with or, I may use Tetra.

I use Weapons Shield CLP to clean and lube my X5 in general & Weapons Shield Grease on the frame rails with no problems. Mine is an X5 Tactical.

I use Lubriplate.

I just started reading and got a ways to go but have always used Lubriplate on my weapons. Made sense.

quote:

Originally posted by Flork:
It sounds like it's just different packaging for marketing purposes. It's still the 105, so you should be good to go.

The PN# on the one we have here in the shop is: L0034-092

PART # L0034-092 WHITE IN COLOR (Specs below)

PART # L0034-094 DARK GREEN IN COLOR (Specs below)

BOTH are listed as being C-105, but appear to have different properties. So? I'm presuming ALL '105' is not equal?{/B]

LUBRIPLATE:
http://www.lubriplate.com/pdf/...3%20100%20Series.pdf

[B]PART # L0034-092 = Automotive Lubricants C-105 Outboard Gear - 10 Oz.

Excellent water-resistant lubricants designed for plain bearings, cams, slides and similar applications up to operating temperatures of 150 Degree F.

LUBRIPLATE No. 100 and No. 105 are excellent lubricants for coating engine parts when assembling either a new or rebuilt engine.
They are excellent rust preventive greases.
A smooth light-bodied grease made especially for motor assembly.

Prevents Dry-Start:

Provides lubrication during the initial start up before the motor oil has circulated
Protects freshly machined engine parts from rust and corrosion
For gear cases of non-shift motors

Specifications
Capacity Wt.: 10 oz
Packing Type: Tube
NLGI Grade: 0
Viscosity at Temp. (Nom): 300.0 SUS at 100.0 degree F
Drop Point (ASTM): 170 degree F
Color: Off-White
Temp. Range: 170.0 degree F [Max]
Specific Gravity: 0.8900 [Min], 0.9300 [Max]
Odor/Scent: Mineral Oil
Physical Form: Paste or Gel
Resistance: Water
Type: Multi-Purpose Grease
UNSPSC: 15121902
________________________________________

PART # L0034-094 = Automotive Lubricants C-105 Motor Assembly Tube - 10 Oz.

Excellent water-resistant lubricants designed for plain bearings, cams, slides and similar applications up to operating temperatures of 150 Degree F.

LUBRIPLATE No. 100 and No. 105 are excellent lubricants for coating engine parts when assembling either a new or rebuilt engine.
They are excellent rust preventive greases.
A smooth light-bodied grease made especially for motor assembly

Prevents Dry-Start
Provides lubrication during the initial start up before the motor oil has circulated
Protects freshly machined engine parts from rust and corrosion
For gear cases of non-shift motors

Specifications
Capacity Wt.: 10 oz
Packing Type: Tube
NLGI Grade: 0
Viscosity at Temp. (Nom): 2300.0 SUS at 100.0 degree F, 145.0 SUS at 210.0 degree F
Color: Dark Green
Flash Point: 505.00 degree F
Specific Gravity: 0.9000 [Min], 0.9100 [Max]
Chemical Compound: Petroleum Based
Odor/Scent: Fatty
Physical Form: Paste or Gel
Pour Point : 10.0 degree F
SAE No.: 70
Applications: Worm Gear
Resistance: Water
Type: Worm Gear Oil
UNSPSC: 15121902

I use Mil Comm TW 25B grease on all my handguns. I've tried numerous brands through the years, but Mil Com is the best to date ...