Finally got to take the new to me Gen 1 G17 to the range..
Man, that grip is a bit slick..



7 - 10 yards..



The 1991 P220 did alright as well..



As did the G30S..

May be a little slick, but it's hard to fault the dead-on accuracy.

From a time when Gen1 Glocks were know to be "fugly".

Impressive 30S.

Nice shooting 1Low...as to the slick feel of the grip, you might try Talon Grips' tape. Hickok 45 uses it on many of his Glocks and I've put it on my wife's G23. We have the sandpaper tape which gives a very secure hold, but I'd not like to take a 4 day, 600 rounds defensive handgun course with it. Your hands would be sandpapered to shreds. Best Regards, Rod

quote:

From a time when Gen1 Glocks were know to be "fugly".

They all still are. As much of a believer as I am in the platform there's nothing purdy about a Glock. Exactly as it should be...as I was saying to someone yesterday at work who was contemplating sending one of his out to be 'beautified'. :heavy sigh:

quote:

Originally posted by Steve 22X:
ZZZ.... a close inspection of the frame revealed it was cracked on the thin vertical portion of the frame, just behind the locking block.
I doubt I would have been able to see these cracks in the poor lighting of the shop anyway.
A perusal of the Internet revealed that others had also suffered the same fate but in some instances, GLOCK did not have to replace the frame (they actually removed the vertical portions from the cracks rearward (stress relief by removal).
In my case it appears that the cracks may have already spread to the main upper portion of the frame so stress relieving it may not be possible depending upon how deep these protrude into the frame.

My options are to;
1) Spend the $61 to ship it to GLOCK and take a chance they can fix the frame (stress relieve it) making any future issues somewhat covered by them
2) Spend the same $61 and let GLOCK replace the frame gratis (as some have said they do) with a (downgrade) Gen 3 frame (I would then sell the pistol)
3) Spend the $61 plus another $100 (if they don't warranty it) to downgrade the frame to a Gen 3 (I won't actually do this *)
4) Just stress relieve the frame myself (well within my capabilities) keep a close eye on it in the future and take my chances.

ZZZ...

Went to the LGS and handled both a Gen-3 and Gen-4, G19 again.
The finger grooves are just flat out all wrong for my hands as my fingers do not rest within the grooves but on top of the humps.

I ended up choosing option 4 since it just was not cost effective with shipping to send the pistol to GLOCK.
If the frame holds up, all the better.
If it starts to show the cracks are spreading, I may just get a .22 upper for it or sell the other parts to minimize my loss.

Fact remains, I did buy a GLOCK.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve 22X:
Went to the LGS and handled both a Gen-3 and Gen-4, G19 again.
The finger grooves are just flat out all wrong for my hands as my fingers do not rest within the grooves but on top of the humps.

I ended up choosing option 4 since it just was not cost effective with shipping to send the pistol to GLOCK.
If the frame holds up, all the better.
If it starts to show the cracks are spreading, I may just get a .22 upper for it or sell the other parts to minimize my loss.

Fact remains, I did buy a GLOCK.

Steve,
The finger grooves are the reason I like my Gen 2 Glocks, sorry to hear you had a problem with yours..
I just bought a Gen 1 to have an original, and I will say the grip is a bit slick.

If you do end up with a Gen 3 or Gen 4 framed Glock, you can find places that can remove your finger grooves and do a pretty good job of doing so.
Or you can try doing it yourself.



I'm not a fan or stippling the grip but some do that for a more uniformed look.



You also might look into getting the trigger guard undercut, that would give you a tad more room to lineup you fingers on those grooves.
I did that with a Gen 3 G19..
The guy that did mine usually does DFW gun shows and will do the undercut while you wait.
He also does total removal that can take a few weeks, but at least you don't have to mail him the frame, you can leave it with him one show then pick it up at future show..
His name is Paul Peek, his number is 817-565=9447.
His website doesn't work anymore, I guess he is still in business, I don't do gun shows very often.

Polymer Grip Profiling

This was my Gen 3 G19 that he did;
Stock:



Undercut trigger guard:







You can also find Gen 3 and Gen 4 frames on Gunbroker, most under $200, if your frame is rendered unusable..
Numbers won't match, but at least you will have a usable pistol.

Just a thought....

quote:

Steve,
The finger grooves are the reason I like my Gen 2 Glocks, sorry to hear you had a problem with yours..
I just bought a Gen 1 to have an original, and I will say the grip is a bit slick.

If you do end up with a Gen 3 or Gen 4 framed Glock, you can find places that can remove your finger grooves and do a pretty good job of doing so.
Or you can try doing it yourself.

My last post above yours is a follow up to my post on page 289 of this thread.
I confirmed (once again) that I have no use for the Gen3 or Gen4 frame since the finger grooves don't fit my hand properly.

Even the sales guy at the LGS pointed out that I could modify the frame on a brand new Gen3 or Gen4 after I clearly showed him my fingers didn't fit correctly.
I replied why would I want to do that to a new pistol, there are simply too many other choices out there in the current market.
I specifically wanted a Gen2 G19, not some goobered up pistol.
FWIW: I own more than enough hand guns so it isn't as if I have to rely on this pistol for any reason.

It took me several years to find a Gen2 G-19 that I wanted to purchase.
Turned out the frame was cracked.
It is simply not cost effective for me to send the pistol back to GLOCK, even if they replace the frame for free.
I have already stress relieved my Gen2s frame and will have to keep an eye on it.

As stated above, if it shows any signs of the cracks growing, depending upon the severity I'll either get a .22 conversion or part it out.
Right now I'm waiting on a new recoil spring assembly to arrive before firing it since with the exception of a minus connector and a grip plug, the pistol still has all the original parts in it.

Forgot to add, I think I know who you are referring to (Paul Peek) I was looking for the 'GLOCK' guy's table at a few recent shows to buy the recoil spring assembly but I haven't seen him in awhile.

Resisted for years. Picked up a Gen 4 G23 today and wonder what I have been waiting for. Simple, compact, and points like a 1911.

Michael

quote:

Originally posted by mdblanton:
Resisted for years. Picked up a Gen 4 G23 today and wonder what I have been waiting for. Simple, compact, and points like a 1911.

Glad you like what you experienced but it pointing like a 1911 would've been the furthest notion I'd come to. For me shooting and pointing with Glocks is natural, but consequently switching to a 1911 (or SIG for that matter) I always end up pointing low from the draw before I correct myself.

quote:

Originally posted by soggy_spinout:

quote:

Originally posted by mdblanton:
Resisted for years. Picked up a Gen 4 G23 today and wonder what I have been waiting for. Simple, compact, and points like a 1911.

Glad you like what you experienced but it pointing like a 1911 would've been the furthest notion I'd come to. For me shooting and pointing with Glocks is natural, but consequently switching to a 1911 (or SIG for that matter) I always end up pointing low from the draw before I correct myself.

Guess there's a lot of variables person-to-person but I come up from a holstered position in almost the same location/point of impact for both. I'll definitely need to collect more data as long as the ammo supply holds up

Michael

would glock allow you to ship only the frame, much lighter and shouldn't cost as much, or get an LGS to ship it USPS which is much less expensive.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
would glock allow you to ship only the frame, much lighter and shouldn't cost as much, or get an LGS to ship it USPS which is much less expensive.

The frame is a serial numbered receiver according to the ATF.
To ship it yourself it will have to go overnight UPS or FedEx...
That will run you $40 to $60....
Unless you have your own FFL, you can't legally mail it through USPS.

If you must ship the frame, have a trusted LGS do it for you.
He/she can send it USPS......

quote:

Originally posted by soggy_spinout:

quote:

Originally posted by mdblanton:
Resisted for years. Picked up a Gen 4 G23 today and wonder what I have been waiting for. Simple, compact, and points like a 1911.

Glad you like what you experienced but it pointing like a 1911 would've been the furthest notion I'd come to. For me shooting and pointing with Glocks is natural, but consequently switching to a 1911 (or SIG for that matter) I always end up pointing low from the draw before I correct myself.

I found that I aimed a tad high from the draw with my Glock pistols after shooting my Sigs..
Although it was very easy to bring it down a touch to get on target...
7 - 10 yards...

I did the trigger guard undercut yesterday on a Glock 23 and I love the results. My job might not be as pretty as a pro job, but it made a lot of difference in how the trigger guard rubs on my middle finger.

If you have even the slightest ability, it is easy to do. A few varieties of sandpaper (up to 600 grit), a 1/2" or 5/8" dowel, and a small sanding block. Do it by hand and go slow.

The biggest difference for me was knocking down the "hump" from the factory undercut to make a smoother transition and rounding the edges.

That is why I prefer the Gen2 Glocks...and older HK USP and P2000.. they fit my hands with no finger grooves.. I have to manage my Glock 36 and still trying to decide if Im going to undercut the trigger guard.. or live with it..

quote:

Originally posted by sasquatch28:
I did the trigger guard undercut yesterday on a Glock 23 and I love the results. My job might not be as pretty as a pro job, but it made a lot of difference in how the trigger guard rubs on my middle finger.

If you have even the slightest ability, it is easy to do. A few varieties of sandpaper (up to 600 grit), a 1/2" or 5/8" dowel, and a small sanding block. Do it by hand and go slow.

The biggest difference for me was knocking down the "hump" from the factory undercut to make a smoother transition and rounding the edges.

Some 1000/1500/2000 3M Wetordry Automotive Sandpaper will help finish off that undercut and make it look nice..

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
would glock allow you to ship only the frame, much lighter and shouldn't cost as much, or get an LGS to ship it USPS which is much less expensive.

If you were asking this in response to my prior posts;
I had corresponded with GLOCK via email and their response was to fill out a form they provided and to send the entire pistol to them.
Even if they replace the frame for free I still lose since it would likely be a Gen 3 frame.
Not worth spending any extra money at this point.

Recoil spring came in the other day so I'll try to get to the range next week and try it out.

Just when you think you are done buying Glocks, one morning you wake up ...




G 30S

Yep, your right bought 2 Glocks; (19 and 32) now I am gonna sell them both to buy a X Five.
Done there been that.

You guys are still at this. I wonder what the longest thread in history is ? SO after selling my only Sig a Tac OPS 9( I believe a gentleman from this forum bought it), I have bought a 23, 34 and today a 42. Interestingly it was you guys who convinced me to look at a Gen 4, since I really never liked the Gen 3. There are still a few Sigs I am interested in. The current deal on the 1911's is interesting !