Tooky, is that the gray dial Helm? I see it comes in both blue and gray and want to make sure my eyes...or computer aren't playing tricks on me.

I like it! Maybe I'll sell one of my Komodos and pick up a Miyako....in a few years.

quote:

Originally posted by 6guns:
Tooky, is that the gray dial Helm? I see it comes in both blue and gray and want to make sure my eyes...or computer aren't playing tricks on me.

I like it! Maybe I'll sell one of my Komodos and pick up a Miyako....in a few years.

Yeah, it's hard to tell the difference looking at them on the Helm website, but It's the gray. Here's another shot I just took, when I was trying it on a NATO, and you can see it's a subtle gray that looks black in some lights.

Thanks for the confirmation!

I see its 40mm. That would work on my small wrist, but the larger watches of theirs have kept me away except for the Komodo. But even that with it's height is close to being a stretch for me.

Nice, Tooky, the Miyako would be my choice, if I were up for a Helm.

quote:

Originally posted by pulicords:

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
And beyond that, many Rolex ADs have apparently adopted a policy of "We'll only sell new Rolexes to established customers" (sometimes most/all models, and sometimes just specific in-demand models). To the point where some have specific set amounts that a customer has to hit before they're considered "established" and the AD will consider selling to them.

As in, you walk in as a new customer looking for a less common Rolex Model XYZ. The Rolex AD tells you "You'll have to have spent $50k with us before we'll put you on the list for a Model XYZ". So you then have to buy a bunch of other watches that you don't really want over the subsequent months/years, just to get the privilege of them possibly selling you the watch you do want at full retail price, whenever they eventually have one available to sell to you.

That $16k Model XYZ ends up costing you $66k total.

Some folks think that adds to Rolex's "prestige" or "exclusivity". I just think that way of doing business is ridiculous.

I've dealt with quite a few authorized Rolex dealers (ADs) since I got into watch collecting, and though I've heard these things before, from experience I think much is simply urban legend. From personal incidents (I'm not a "high roller"), I think that with a few exceptions, it comes down to simply this:demand outstripping available supply. In my case with the Explorer II, someone else could/would have bought it IF the AD/SA wanted to sell it to them. In this case, I think they were actually serious about having it go to a real customer vs a "flipper" and I'm glad they did!

I’ve always wanted the base model OP. I’d be interested if one would go MSRP but not more. Since it is not as in demand as a lot of other models maybe an AD would use it to get me in as a Rolex customer!

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:

I’ve always wanted the base model OP. I’d be interested if one would go MSRP but not more. Since it is not as in demand as a lot of other models maybe an AD would use it to get me in as a Rolex customer!

I'd start with checking out my local AD to see if they have the specific model of OP you're looking for. You may want to try on a couple of different sized "exhibition models" (without the movement) to see which fits you best, and then spend some time with the SA talking about the various features available. Check out their catalogue while you're there or online. If he/she doesn't have anything in stock at the moment, ask if you can be put on "a list" and request the watch(s) you'd prefer. I think the OP models are relatively easier to obtain for several reasons, among them the variations offered by Rolex, so you might get "the call" sooner than you expect.

After getting on the list, check out every AD you can when you have the opportunity to do so in person. Vacation, business trips, etc...

Expect some SAs to be friendlier and more accommodating than others, but have faith that your efforts will eventually come to fruition, and present an optimistic/pleasant attitude and I believe you'll find success. Good luck and I'm looking forward to reading about your choice and experience here!!!

FWIW, I tend to mark life-changing moments with a watch.

In this particular case, I recently survived major surgery, a whipple procedure. In short, I had 1/3 of my pancreas removed. If you are unaware, the problem AND the cure are among the most painful things you can experience.

I am in my healing phase, but I have to learn to eat again, pain is my constant ally.

That said, I figured, if this isn't a life changing occasion, nothing is.

So, That's the significance of this watch, a 253-58 Blue Max.



I first held one in Lahaina on a vacation in Maui @ 2006.

I have to say, it's a beautiful watch. Having it on the wrist since Friday night, it is positionally sensitive and without any service information, I am certain it will need one, and new seals, etc.

It gained 2 seconds on the wrist in the first 24 hrs. It lost 6 seconds on the desk at 3H, so, service time.





If I am honest, it is far superior to my Sub Date. The movement is the UN26, which is an ETA 2892 A2 chronometer with a special UN produced module for power and small seconds.
This is the highest level of materials and regulation for ETA, and a workhorse with known accuracy and durability. Is it as good as a Rolex 3035 or 3135? Probably not quite, but it is no slouch either.
So, there you have it.
Will I wear it? Occasionally I am sure, it's good looking and comfortable.

IMO, this watch is a memento, not a replacement for my current watch, but every time I look at it I can thumb my nose at the reaper and carry on.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Snapping Twig,

DAMNIT!!!!
And a million miles from anywhere I trust.

So, my EDC is pretty much a “MadMod” watch that gets knocked around a lot. It’s held up perfectly so far, runs a little slow, but nothing that can’t be fixed somewhere down the line.

Here I am in Costa Rica, and I accidentally knocked the watch off the counter on to the tile floor. The damn second hand popped off… nothing major, it still works, just can’t do seconds.


I think Mimi’s Jewelry is going to get a package from Chicago soon. There’s a few things I’d like him to look at.

CPD SIG, I know how much that sucks. I did the same thing to a vintage Seiko 4205 diver.

It sucked dirty donkey balls but it motivated me to learn to mod.

A hand replacement is easy. I’d do it for free for you. Chances are the movement is ok.

I’d recommend upgrading the movement to a regulated kanji or Roman numeral day/date wheel if you’re into that stuff while it’s apart.

It’s an easy fix. Don’t let it stress you out.


You getting in any surfing in Costa Rica? I’ve heard the surf there is pretty sweet.

quote:

Originally posted by stickman428:
CPD SIG, I know how much that sucks. I did the same thing to a vintage Seiko 4205 diver.

It sucked dirty donkey balls but it motivated me to learn to mod.

A hand replacement is easy. I’d do it for free for you. Chances are the movement is ok.

I’d recommend upgrading the movement to a regulated kanji or Roman numeral day/date wheel if you’re into that stuff while it’s apart.

It’s an easy fix. Don’t let it stress you out.


You getting in any surfing in Costa Rica? I’ve heard the surf there is pretty sweet.

“Charlie don’t surf”!
I suck at it. My lil Brother, well, that’s why he’s not leaving California.
It’s probably good outside the bay we’re in. In the bay, pretty flat water. I’m going to try and get some diving in. Hopefully with the kids too. Teach them some new skills!

As far as the watch, I have a Citizen Divemaster that’s about 30 years old that needs work, a vintage Hamilton electric as well. I’m thinking about shooting them off to Dave T.

[/QUOTE]
beautiful

Tudor’s Heritage Chronograph is one of many Tudor watches that has caught my fancy.

I really like the gloss black and the slate/gray dial. I’m not sure which I like more. Most days I prefer the seemingly more vintage appearing dull gray dial but that glossy black dial looks incredible too.

The collection would take a hell of a hit to fund it but the thought is tempting.



The rotating bezel with hour markets is a somewhat unique function for a chronograph from Tudor. It’s great to have the additional timing capability and it also takes some wear and tear off the Chronograph for timing certain kinds of events.

I wish the chapter ring and 12 o’clock shield had been lumed on the (new) vintage reissue version but no watch is perfect it seems.

The lumed hour markers have been likened to home plate in baseball because of its shape. The shape also looks like Link’s shield in The Legend of Zelda.

Stick, what did I ever do to you? I thought we were friends!!!!

Why did you have to go and post the Tudors?!? You know I’m weak right now with a broken watch!


I really dig the Pelagros, those titanium ones are appealing!

quote:

Originally posted by CPD SIG:
Stick, what did I ever do to you? I thought we were friends!!!!

Why did you have to go and post the Tudors?!? You know I’m weak right now with a broken watch!


I really dig the Pelagros, those titanium ones are appealing!

I was really leaning towards the Tudor Black Bay Pro (GMT). It's a beautiful watch, but at 39mm (vs 42mm on my Explorer II) just a bit smaller than I like on my wrist.

quote:

The shape also looks like Link’s shield in The Legend of Zelda.

They should have made the minute hand look like the Master Sword.

Et tu, Pulli, et tu?

Helm did the Home Plate markers on this one.

These new "Heritage" watches are a homage to Tudor's vintage Oysterdate line from 1970, which featured that style of home plate indices.