The Eagle has landed! (So to speak).

Found a great price on the Bulova Lunar Pilot Special Edition and had to pull the trigger. It's a big watch and has taken some getting used to but I am really enjoying it. It does feel like it wears a bit smaller than 45mm. So far the only downside is the 50m water resistance rating. I usually wear divers so I don't think twice about getting wet. It does a good job of scratching my moon watch itch with dropping big $$.

I've also been wearing one of my larger watches lately. At 44mm, it’s stout, but wears lighter on the Hirsch strap. You definitely know you’ve got it on when wearing it on its bracelet, makes a big difference. Of course, compared to stickman's Tissot Seastar clock, it's puny

Three questions. I've decided on the Marathon as my next purchase. The Hamilton Khaki turns out is the model I would have settled for and not what I really want. 1. The model I'm after is an automatic movement. I've watched Youtube vids on the subject and it said the watch will need work every so often that might exceed the price of the watch, and this type of movement you have to reset the time every so often. Is this true? 2. If that's the case why are automatic movements considered superior? I have a quartz movement and I rarely have to reset the time. 3 The model I'm after I would like with a pvc bracelet that goes for 360 dollars. Seems a bit pricey. What's the difference between a 50 dollar bracelet and a 400 dollar bracelet?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: goose5,

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
1. The model I'm after is an automatic movement. I've watched Youtube vids on the subject and it said the watch will need work every so often that might exceed the price of the watch, and this type of movement you have to reset the time every so often. Is this true?

2. If that's the case why are automatic movements considered superior? I have a quartz movement and I rarely have to reset the time.

Yes, and yes. It's a mechanical device, and these things require maintenance from time to time. Depending on the movement, you may be looking at 5-10 years for a service interval with an automatic watch. Servicing costs probably greatly depend on who you send it or take it to for service. "Superior" may be the wrong word, depending on how you look at it. Like Stickman often says, part of the appeal of the automatic watch is that it's a purely mechanical device that's powered by your own body movement throughout the day, and it's a mechanical triumph and marvel that you're wearing on your body and looking at multiple times per day. It's part of the enjoyment of knowing what it is when you look at it. I agree. Any cheap quartz movement is going to be within seconds per month, not per day, and you won't have to fiddle with it except maybe three or four times a year to change the date and correct the time when it drifts off a bit. But as the manager at my local Omega boutique told me, they can repair watches made in the 1800's, but when your quartz movement shits the bed, it's done forever. Think of automatic watches as heirloom type items and it becomes a little easier to accept. Some day, your grandson can wear and enjoy the automatic watch you purchase now.

Automatic movements tend to either gain or lose a few seconds a day. Depending on the movement, that could be +4 or +5, or -20, etc. Automatic watches can be regulated, and some of them quite accurately. My Glycine Combat Sub was running pretty consistently at +4 seconds a day for the first seven or eight months I owned it. Now it's running pretty consistently at -5 per day. I kind of enjoy this, and will correct my watch every few days. It's part of the quirkiness of the thing. It's hard to know whether it's something you'll enjoy until you try it, honestly. I had my doubts and hesitations about the various drawbacks to an automatic watch at first as well. Now I quite enjoy these things. To compare it to guns, they make rifles now that you could stack rounds on each other at hundreds of yards, but some folks still really enjoy rifles and designs that are considered well antiquated, not because they want to have one hole groups at ridiculous distances, but because they enjoy the peculiarities of whatever antiquated rifle. Marzy comes to mind with this example.

I'm far from the most knowledgeable about these things, even in this thread, but as a relative neophyte to the hobby, I figured I could at least pass along my experience. Likely others will, and should, chime in and correct me where it's needed.

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
3 The model I'm after I would like with a pvc bracelet that goes for 360 dollars. Seems a bit pricey. What's the difference between a 50 dollar bracelet and a 400 dollar bracelet?

PVC or PVD? I suspect you meant PVD. It's a very durable coating that holds up well and lasts a long time. SIG uses it on their pistols as of some time in the last several years. It isn't a cheap process, and the equipment needed to do it is pricey. Like CNC made anything, that's part of the cost of the final product.

I've owned a number of cheap quartz watches over the years, but I haven't enjoyed any of them as much as I have my automatics. I've only been into them for about a year now, but I think that's more my "thing." If you just want jewelry that tells time, there's many fine choices. An automatic watch is more of an experience, I guess. But yes, being aware that you'll have to correct the time at whatever intervals you feel is proper, and paying to have the watch serviced when it stops running correctly are things you should be aware of prior to purchasing one. They're not unlike an automobile in that regard.

Yes, pvd. Sorry got a plumbing project on the brain. I looked up the costs to service an Omega. 750 bucks. I'm not sure I want to do that now. A quick search said servicing is required around every 5 years? Which means the exact model I was looking at is off the table. Well, back to square 1.

At 48mm Tissot’s new Seastar Professional 1000 is huge and it is quite heavy on its original bracelet. The new top of the line Seastar is quite a bit more comfortable on a NATO. I’m loving how it looks on this blue and white strap. It even got a compliment from a family member who rarely notices watches. At its size I suppose it’s hard to miss.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: stickman428,

Goose, what watch were you looking at?

I have a Seiko Turtle that is more than 5 years old, has been worn regularly including in the ocean and it has never been serviced. The thing is still keeping exquisite time too!

For less expensive divers in the $200-600 range a $200-300 service every 5 years seems like a hard sell at first. That said, if you rotate through a few automatic watches and allow each watch a little down time you can go much longer without a service.

For anyone even remotely interested in their first automatic dive watch I HIGHLY recommend checking out the Seiko Turtle, Samurai and the Tissot Seastar, especially the new 2021 version with the green wavy looking dial. The Tissot Seastar is the corporate cousin to the mighty Omega Seamaster and in my experience it gives you a hell of a lot of watch for not a ton of money. The 80 hour power reserve and accuracy is incredible too.



Tissot’s newest Seastar fixed the hard to see previous ghost/chrome bezel with a cleaner and more visible bezel. A new dial, square date window (prev gen was round) and bracelet also make up the changes to the latest Seastar. It’ll be interesting to see the other colors Tissot offers.

The dial looks like it was inspired by both the Seiko shark fin dial and the Omega Seamaster wave dial. I like it.

I was looking at the Marathon GSAR Anthracite version. I might mention I don't wear a watch during the work week. So it will only see action on weekends and vacation time. I'm beginning to understand why most have more than one. You really have me wanting a Seastar. That watch is fabulous.

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
A quick search said servicing is required around every 5 years? Which means the exact model I was looking at is off the table. Well, back to square 1.

I'm sure if you posted what that exact model is, someone here can comment further on this. Is it a Marathon or an Omega? I'm confused.

Marathon's servicing costs:
https://www.marathonwatch.com/...ance-repair-services

Omega is a whole other league, my friend. If you have a $4,000+ luxury watch with an in-house movement that should only be repaired by an authorized tech, you should look to spend some bucks to keep it running right. I'm looking at buying an Omega Seamaster limited edition hopefully this year, and I'm ok with $750 or so every 8-10 years to keep it running like it should.

# Edit - I didn't see your most recent post. You're looking at a fraction of what you thought you'd be spending to service it. And mind you, that service interval isn't exactly a hard and fast rule from what I've been seeing in my research. Even in this thread, I've seen people post that whatever automatic watch that requires x service interval didn't actually need service until y date, a considerable bit of time beyond that.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: P220 Smudge,

Sorry for the confusion. I'm after a Marathon, but when I searched for automatic movement repair costs Omega was the first thing I found. Thanks for the link. Those prices are much more palatable. Good info is why I value the membership of this board.

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
Sorry for the confusion. I'm after a Marathon, but when I searched for automatic movement repair costs Omega was the first thing I found. Thanks for the link. Those prices are much more palatable. Good info is why I value the membership of this board.

The makers of the luxury brands like Omega, and Rolex (even worse) charge a small fortune for service at the factory. I shudder to think what service at the Patek factory would cost. But most Patek owners don't need to worry about the cost of a service.

Many good watch makers charge in the ranges of the Marathon service costs. Generally, you need a good watchmaker, and sending a watch to the factory is not necessary.

Had my original Oct 2001 contract Marathon SAR with its ETA 2824-2 movement serviced by an independent firm late last year... $250.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: bald1,

quote:

Originally posted by bald1:
Had my original Oct 2001 contract Marathon SAR with its ETA 2824-2 movement serviced by an independent firm late last year... $250.

The Marathons (at least the SAR's) have a standard ETA 2824-2 movement in them. They may have begun using Sellita movements in some. Any watchmaker worth his salt should be able to service it.

RMD

quote:

Originally posted by bald1:
Had my original Oct 2001 contract Marathon SAR with its ETA 2824-2 movement serviced by an independent firm late last year... $250.

I really like it with the the round indexes rather than the numerals they are using now. The current dial is too cluttered for my taste.

BTW: It looks like Marathon has some discount programs. Before you purchase, check and see if any apply. https://www.marathonwatch.com/...ofessional-discounts

quote:

Originally posted by stickman428:
At 48mm Tissot’s new Seastar Professional 1000 is huge and it is quite heavy on its original bracelet. The new top of the line Seastar is quite a bit more comfortable on a NATO. I’m loving how it looks on this blue and white strap. It even got a compliment from a family member who rarely notices watches. At its size I suppose it’s hard to miss.

My Citizen F150 is a 44mm & about as big as I think I can manage, it's also quite thick at 12.7mm.
A 48mm would probably look like a wall clock on my wrist

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
Three questions. I've decided on the Marathon as my next purchase. The Hamilton Khaki turns out is the model I would have settled for and not what I really want. 1. The model I'm after is an automatic movement. I've watched Youtube vids on the subject and it said the watch will need work every so often that might exceed the price of the watch, and this type of movement you have to reset the time every so often. Is this true? 2. If that's the case why are automatic movements considered superior? I have a quartz movement and I rarely have to reset the time. 3 The model I'm after I would like with a pvc bracelet that goes for 360 dollars. Seems a bit pricey. What's the difference between a 50 dollar bracelet and a 400 dollar bracelet?

1. Yeah. Autos need servicing every 5 to 10 years. Marathon (and most other makers) reccomend 5 years. The movement will be dissassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and worn parts replaced. It's labor intensive and a lot of companies who use Japanese or the base ETA movements just swap the whole movement out for a new one and replace the seals. That said, I've got a Seiko diver that is 20 years old with no services that is still running within 30 seconds a day.

Autos are mechanical devices dependent on springs and gears. My Omega is within 2 seconds a day if worn daily. My Marathon is about 20 seconds a day slow. I'm good with that, especially since I tend to rotate my watches depending on mood and what I'm going to be doing anyway. My "worst" regulated watch is a Yema that is about 30 seconds a day fast. A good watchmaker could probably get that down to something more reasonable, but honestly, I just reset the the thing every few days if I'm wearing it for an extended period.

2. Autos aren't "superior." They are less accurate and more maintenance intensive than quartz. You want super accurate timekeeping, get a digital G Shock that syncs daily to the atomic clock in Colorado. In a lot of people's opinion, mine among them, autos are "cooler." They are intricate machines, often with a good bit of hand fitting, that are able to keep time within seconds a day while relying on springs and precision gears and that wind themselves with the movement of the wearers body. There's just something neat about that. There is also a certain pride of ownership involved. My Omega is a VERY nice watch, but is it REALLY 4 times the watch that my GSAR is or 100x the watch a Timex (for me, yes, absolutely, but your mileage will vary).

3. Build quality and materials up to a point. My Marathon is on a strap, but the bracelets they use are very nice and feel solid.

If you aren't into the cool factor of an auto, save the money and go with the quartz Marathon. It will be nearly indestructible and plenty accurate. Be aware that the quartz movement they use is high torque and does require battery replacement more often than you might be used to. Figure 2 to 3 years. Those tritium tubes are heavy. I LOVE my GSAR. It probably gets more wrist time than all my others put together with the exception of my Seamaster. It's a beast of a watch.

If you’re going to just be wearing it on the weekends, you would have to wind and set it every weekend. Power reserve in that marathon is something like 30 hours.

Service is “recommended”. I sold my Jan 2007 GSAR last year and it was still keeping good time and had never been serviced. Many people send them in when they start losing time, etc. Modern lubricants are far superior to past ones. Rolex actually extended their recommendation on service intervals.

Honestly, I also say you’d probably be happier with a quartz GSAR based on your questions. Nothing wrong with that.

If you just really want to try an auto, check out the Seiko Sports 5 series or Orient. Cheap enough that if you wear them out buying a new one will make the most sense.

quote:

Originally posted by chongosuerte:
If you just really want to try an auto, check out the Seiko Sports 5 series or Orient. Cheap enough that if you wear them out buying a new one will make the most sense.

I'd also recommend this. Marathon isn't going to quit making watches while you prove or disprove the concept to yourself for around $100. I went double that to try it out with a Phoibos and decided I liked it enough to drop $300 on a Glycine. I like both of them enough that I'll probably sell the Phoibos to help fund a Seamaster. Baby steps.

New bling. I'm smitten

That is very nice. Classy.