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Official forum SIG Pro enthusiast |
Winding it won’t make it run slow BUT don’t make it a habit because excessive winding definitely causes premature wear on that movement. I try not to ever hand wind an ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200 more than 5 rotations of the crown. If you are hand winding it a bit to ensure it has a full power reserve and not noticing any difference in time keeping it might be time to regulate it. Excessively winding it will wear out that mechanism. It’s best to let it wind itself up with the rotor and movement. The rotor winds it differently than when you manually wind it. Typically magnetized watches run fast but it never hurts to try demagnetizing it so you can rule that out. I’ve been able to slightly improve the accuracy of a few watches by running them over the demagnetizer. It’s a great tool to have. Good luck! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance | |||
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Raptorman |
Manual winding won't prematurely wear the keyless works. However it does wear the crown and crown tube threads on diver watches. The keyless works is very hardy mechanically, so much that the reversers will wear before it. ____________________________ Eeewwww, don't touch it! Here, poke at it with this stick. | |||
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Frangas non Flectes |
So don’t wind it unless it’s been run down and try to be less anal about correcting the time to the second sounds like the big takeaway here. Thanks, guys. I guess I’ll be seeing whether it’s an ETA or Sellita inside it for myself pretty soon. ______________________________________________ “There are plenty of good reasons for fighting, but no good reason ever to hate without reservation, to imagine that God Almighty Himself hates with you, too.” | |||
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Member |
ETA makes four different quality levels of the 2824-2 movement. At one time, on one of the watch forums I am on, people were told not to manually wind the watch every day if it an automatic. That is what the rotor, that is attached to the automatic works does. At one time it was reported that one of the winding gears would sheer a tooth off if it was manually wound to much. I am not sure if this was every quality level they made. I am also not sure if this is still true. This is the main reason why I own a watch winder. If my wife or I want to wear a certain watch I will put it on the winder the day before then the only thing I have to do is set the date and time. If you are going to try to regulate your watch are you using a Timegrapher? If not you should think about buying one they are cheap on Amazon. They usually sell for less that $175.00 I usually time my watches off my atomic signal clock. Recently my wife's Rolex was running fast so I bought a Timegrapher. I timed it in several different positions. Then I calculated my totals and found it was running 9.44 seconds fast. Rolex say it should be no more than 2 to 3 seconds either way. I checked to see if it was magnetized and it was not. I ran it over the de magnetize for the heck of it any way and it did not make a difference. It is less than 5 years old so back to Rolex it goes under warranty. Good luck. The Second Amendment to the United States Constitution. A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. As ratified by the States and authenticated by Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State NRA Life Member | |||
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__________________________ "We're after men - and I wish to God I was with them. The next time you make a mistake, I'm going to ride off and let you die." - Deke Thornton, - The Wild Bunch | |||
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Official forum SIG Pro enthusiast |
I went to the Omega boutique today. The ceramic case and titanium bezel Seamaster (black case w/ silver bezel) is just GORGEOUS! I firmly believe that black watches matter. I’m a sucker for a nice PVD, DLC or Ceramic case watch. I think maybe my fascination with these non stainless watches can be blamed on the Tiger King and his fabulous white ceramic watch. That sent me down the rabbit hole and I found myself looking at Chanel J12 watches with genuine interest. I cannot for the life of me decide if I like the silver dial, black dial or blue dial Seamaster the most. Somehow these ceramic case Seamasters flew completely and totally under my radar until today. I love the clean look the dial has without that date window. It took a monumental amount of restraint to keep from walking out of the boutique with this on my wrist. If I didn’t have a lead on a limited release chronograph diver right now I probably would have pulled the trigger on this baby today. P220 Smudge, the white dial Seamaster looks WAAAAY better in real life. Pics don’t do that watch justice. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
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Frangas non Flectes |
Yeah, it really appeals to me. Just can't pony up the dough. Hell, I realistically probably can't afford any of them. Going to have to cut deep into the guitar and gun collection to make one happen.
You talking the standard white dial with black hands and indices, or the 2020 Olympic I posted about? Or just in general? I keep hearing that in person, there's no comparison, and I believe it. Pictures and video of the silver dial version in no way do justice to how it looks in person. ______________________________________________ “There are plenty of good reasons for fighting, but no good reason ever to hate without reservation, to imagine that God Almighty Himself hates with you, too.” | |||
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Member |
Do you trust a ceramic case? Bezel is understandable, but that one in a hundred just right impact on the larger surface area of a case... I remember Tissot making stone cases in the 70's. Far out man... Wood ones too. Maybe ceramic is going to be the future, who knows? Have you seen the sapphire cases? Interesting, but the same thing would apply on the brittle nature and impacts. | |||
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Frangas non Flectes |
Speaking purely for myself, they’re so out of reach as to be a purely academic exercise in justification. I made a short list of guns to sell earlier, and if I sell everything on that list, I should have enough to buy the 2020 Tokyo Seamaster and about $2k to play with for something else, which technically puts me in the ballpark for one of the ceramic models. But for my first foray into luxury watches, I think I’d rather have the Tokyo and something else that isn’t a watch for that extra $2k. Too many eggs in one basket. That tipping point exists for everyone and that’s about where it is for me. $5k, and a little more for wiggle room is about as much as I’m willing to sink into it. ______________________________________________ “There are plenty of good reasons for fighting, but no good reason ever to hate without reservation, to imagine that God Almighty Himself hates with you, too.” | |||
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Member |
Most I ever spent for a watch was $6500, that was for a TT Daytona with the 4130 mvmt. This was @ 2006 or so. They're going for as much as $20K now.Sold it for ... a wee bit less... OK, a lot less. Spent $6100 on a Yacht-Master in '03, and these days I find an upper comfort level for something good at @ $4K. Marinemaster was $3K, 206 was $4K and numerous others all $500 or less. Still, I THOUGHT about a few @ $10K and had to step away from the keyboard. Seiko GS is awesome. You can join that club for @ $4K. Prices are insane now. Lots of really nice pieces, but AD pricing is wicked bad. Grey market for several brands is worse. I've been motivated to look at new to me brands, like Zenith for instance and to dream of ultra high end offerings from A. Lange and Sohne. Things are changing for sure. | |||
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Official forum SIG Pro enthusiast |
A 206 Arktis II is still obtainable for around $4k. That was another thought going through my head as I looked at the beautiful ceramic case Seamaster. Is this better than having a Sinn 206 and a 144 and still probably having money left over to get that blue Willard I like? The salesman at the boutique showing me the watches seemed to have little concern for the strength of a ceramic case. He said something like “unless you accidentally smack your watch with a hammer it’ll be fine”. The thing that really surprised me was the polishing and brushing on the case, it looked and felt like a steel case. It’s a very cool watch but it’s priced about $4000-5000 too high in my opinion. What really irritated me was the difference in bezel action I noticed while handling a few of their Seamasters. Most of them felt great but one did not. If I were to buy a silver dial Seamaster from Jomashop and save roughly $1,000 compared to my AD will it be one with that great bezel action? How much of a pain would it be to send it back if I wasn’t 100% happy with it? I’m not an unreasonable person but if the watch has an issue or a flaw I’ll find it and it’ll bother me quite a bit. P220 Smudge, they only had the regular white dial Seamaster. I had convinced myself I don’t need any more white dial watches but when I handled it I fell in love with that dial all over again. It is just stunning and so different from every single other white dial watch I’ve seen. It’s a shame these things are so damn expensive. I asked the salesman about buying a Rolex Sub and how long of a wait it would be if I put my name on the list. He said something like “there isn’t a waiting list” and he didn’t really give me an answer on time frame but offered to take my info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance | |||
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Member |
Jeepers, man! I squirmed for about three months, deciding whether to drop $350 on my SKX, after having done similar on my Samurai. - - - - - - That said, I'll admit that I'm drooling a little over Seiko's blue-faced Alpinist. ( Link) God bless America. | |||
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Member |
FWIW, I actually did smack my Submariner with a hammer once. Hit it on the case, stopped running the following day, so off to service and all was well after that. Just saying... things happen. Also, on the 206... I ordered it with the H link bracelet AND the Fine Link. Reason was I preferred the look of the Fine Link, but with limited adjustability I had to have a back up plan, which was the H Link. Turns out, I got an exact fit with the Fine Link, so the H Link took a back seat. The H Link is thicker and much heavier and gives the 206 a precious metal heft. Kind of neat, but I haven't been able to stick with it for more than a few days at a time, always go back to the Fine Link. | |||
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always with a hat or sunscreen |
I'm just glad given all the recent trends that at my age my acquisition days (watches, guns, knives, fountain pens, audio-video related, etc.) are well behind me. Certifiable member of the gun toting, septuagenarian, bucket list workin', crazed retiree, bald is beautiful club! USN (RET), COTEP #192 | |||
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Official forum SIG Pro enthusiast |
vthoky, it’s a slow progression/addiction to get to the point where you eventually begin to consider spending $4000+ on a watch. Ten years ago I wasn’t even into watches, they were a tool that told the time, tide and moon phase and didn’t bring me any joy. It’s wild how your taste and interests can change over time. So this happened yesterday. My wife and I have an anniversary coming up. I showed my wife the silver dial Seamaster and the Sinn 206 Arktis to see which one she thought looked nicer. I wasn’t expecting her to look them up but because of the approaching anniversary she was looking for a gift idea. A little while later my wife says “dammit you have expensive taste in watches! You don’t expect me to get you a $4k watch do you!?”. I responded “well no, I can’t decide between the Omega and Sinn so I don’t expect you to buy one of those...what about if we just got both of them?”. She didn’t think that was funny at all. Snapping Twig, I love the look of the H link. I didn’t know it was a heavy bracelet. That fine bracelet looks similar to the bracelet you see on the latest Tissot Seastar watches. I suppose it would only be a matter of time before I put the 206 on a mesh bracelet if I got one. Do you know how much your 206 weighs with the H link bracelet? On the subject of bracelets, the beads of rice bracelet on my Geckota is becoming one of my favorites. It’s so comfortable on the wrist and I just love the way it looks with the contrast between the brushed links and polished beads of rice. Of all my divers this watch has one of the most interesting cases. It also has a very unique orange sunburst bezel insert that is sunk into the bezel and then filled in with resin/epoxy to protect it from scratches. The only way to lose the lume pip on this watch would be if the entire bezel fell off. This watch is interesting. I looked it up on YouTube before buying it. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that I bought the exact watch from that review on YouTube. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance | |||
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Go Vols! |
I like what they did with the Great White Shark Turtle. If they included an extra silicone strap and sapphire for the crystal it would have been a home run. I’m not as crazy about the rectangle cyclops versions. | |||
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Gone but Together Again. Dad & Uncle |
A few pages back I posted I had sent my combo gold/stainless Submariner back to mother Rolex to be serviced in early March. At that point the watch was 17 years old. I picked it up this past Friday and it runs and looks great. They did polish the case, replaced the bezel, etc. Since I rejected their recommendation of replacing the bracelet, to the tune of ~$4700, they did not polish/service the bracelet. Apparently the gold is "thin" in spots. Our local Rolex dealer used their 10x microscope to show me the "bad spots" and quite frankly, the gold does not look thin at all. Is there really such a thing as wearing out a bracelet or was this just "upselling"? Note when I bought the watch brand-new in 2003, the entire watch cost $6300. I can't believe just the bracelet would now cost almost $5k. | |||
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Prodigal Son |
Well, given that a gold & stainless Submariner now retails for more than $15,000, $4700 for the bracelet seems proportional. | |||
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