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Thank you for keeping this thread going. Lots of great information and unbelieveable knives. Niech Zyje P-220 Steve | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
I'm having a blast...I'm fully immersed in the Emerson Legend...might have to buy me a grinder...  | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Emerson Police Utility Fixed Blade knife...From the Emerson 2013 Catalog:
  Handles: Black G-10 epoxy / glass laminate Blade: 154 CM Finish: Black or Stonewash Grind: Conventional V Grind Overall Length: 8.50 in. Blade Length: 3.60 in. Blade Thickness: .125 in. Hardness:57-59 RC Weight: 5.5 oz.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Czechvar, | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Police Search And Rescue Knife (P-Sark)...From the Emerson 2013 Catalog:
P-SARK (Sharp Tip)  SARK (Rounded Safety Tip)  Overall Length: 8.20" Blade Length: 3.50" Blade Material: 154CM (Stainless) Blade Rockwell: 57-59HRC Opening Mechanism: Wave Lock: Liner Lock Closed Length: 4.88" Handle Material: Black G10 Liner(s): Titanium Clip: Stainless Steel Weight: 5.10 oz.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Czechvar, | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
In the FAQ section at Emerson, I ran across this topic that we all deal with...And the Answer and product Emerson uses that I hadn't heard of before... Q. I've noticed some rust on my stonewashed blade. Is this normal? A. Steel rusts. There is no such thing as stainless or rust proof steel. The steel that we use is 154cm and it is a high carbon tool steel. It's formula just qualifies it as a stainless class steel. Our steel, 154cm, will rust given the right or should I say, wrong circumstances. The stonewashed finished knives are raw steel with no coating. That means there is no protective barrier between the steel and the environment. We do offer black coated blades. Why do some of the stonewashed blades show surface rust? Because they have been exposed to an environment conducive to rust. It's really that simple. We wipe all of our blades down with Sentry Tuf Cloth prior to assembly to give them that measure of protection. However, after exposure to certain environmental conditions or after someone has wiped or cleaned off the Tuf Cloth solution, the steel is then exposed. The question then comes up, "Joe has the same exact knife with the next serial number, we live next door and even carpool to work. Why does mine rust and his does not? Does mine have bad steel or a bad heat treat?" Every individual has a slightly different body chemistry. It can be the result of dietary or hereditary causes. Sometimes both. This means that when measured very precisely everyone has their own personal PH level. As a result, some peoples perspiration is slightly basic, some neutral and some acidic. I have worked with people who touch a piece of bright steel and literally within 30 seconds a bright orange fingerprint starts to appear on the surface. And I mean I have seen this in a number of individuals over the years, perhaps dozens. So, there are people who have varying degrees of acidity or alkalinity in their perspiration. It's not good. it's not bad. It just is. So, you take a knife and it gets little particles of dust, dirt, or lint on it. These particles are generally hydroscopic, meaning they can attract and hold moisture. Couple that with the possibility that a person may have a slightly acid PH and I guarantee that you will see some surface rust over time. A knife that is carried in the pocket does and will rust if the individual carrying it has a slightly acid PH, even if it is never taken out of the pocket. Remember perspiration wicks out through the layers of clothing and a pocket is full of lint. Knives, just like guns need to be cleaned and lubricated to keep them in good working order and to prevent rust. There is nothing wrong with the knives. They are stain resistant, not rust proof. The steel we use is a battle proven combat ready steel that does exactly what our users want and need. As you may have noted over the years I do not chase after the new "super steel" every year when a new one comes out. I'm not going to trade out performance for a steel used by another company just because it doesn't rust. The bottom line is, just like I do with very expensive guns and my 600 year old Japanese swords. I keep them clean and I oil them to prevent rust, (Not the swords). I hope this gives some explanation to the questions about surface rust on some peoples stonewashed blades. http://www.emersonknives.com/ekEK_FAQ.php#question2This message has been edited. Last edited by: Czechvar, | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
So here is the stuff they mentioned for coating knife blades...Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide. Apparently it has applications on knives, guns, and a few other things. So I ordered a Marine Tuf-Cloth and a Marine Tuf-Glide Spray Bottle 4 oz...that should keep my knives clean and rust free. The Marine version adds additional corrosion inhibitors. http://www.sentrysolutions.com...&Category_Code=KNIFE This message has been edited. Last edited by: Czechvar, | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Total Package, By David Rhea KNIFE MAINTENANCE The Total Package By David Rhea As Printed in BLADE magazine and reproduced with the permission of the author. When people talk about knife maintenance, they tend to think of keeping the blade razor sharp. However, you can have the sharpest blade on the block and still have a junky knife—that is, unless your maintenance regimen involves more than running the blade over a stone every few weeks. There are several factors to consider when pondering long-term care for your knife. First, what is the knife's lot in life? Let's say you inherited a Randall Smithsonian bowie from your dad. It has a brass guard, collar and buttcap, with a flawless elephant ivory handle. It came with the original leather sheath, but you want to display the knife on your wall, next to the handforged camp knife you picked up at the BLADE Show last year. In this case, who cares how sharp the blade is if the guard is turning green? And, if you throw the leather sheath in the bottom desk drawer and forget about it, it will look like King Tut's dried-up old kidney by the time your kid inherits it. The gentlemen quoted in the following story are long-time collectors and experts at maintaining knives for use and storage. They constantly encounter the problems of storage, display, fingerprints, corrosion control and material conditioning. They all insist that the best thing to do is what works for you, and all their advice is just their opinions. Our thinking is, what works for the experts is worth passing along to you. Keep and Store It Dry Generally, knives are low maintenance. They are just like anything you care about—easy to keep in a good condition if you simply apply basic common sense. Keep the knife dry and conditioned, lubricate the mechanism, wipe the knife down before you put it away, and keep any leather conditioned. Moisture is the main enemy of knives. Be it a letter opener or King Arthur's Excalibur, the singular, universal piece of advice when it comes to taking care of anything edged is to keep and store it dry. Moisture attacks steel, leather, bone—you name it. Maybe the only thing that is unaffected by moisture is synthetic materials such as G-10 or Micarta®, and, given enough time, moisture would probably wear them away as well. "I think the No. 1 thing any knife collector should do is prevent moisture," said Larry Oden, a long-time collector of Buck knives. "It's bad news for leather, steel and most natural materials. I understand those who live in extremely dry climates have trouble with [knife materials] shrinking and they need to add a bit of humidity. But for most [knives], humidity is trouble!" Dan Magrino, a long-time tactical knife collector, keeps his knives dry with the help of a safe with a built-in dehumidifier. The set-up draws the moisture out of the storage area for carefree, long-term upkeep of his knives, such as his prized "First Blood" Rambo prototype by Blade Magazine Cutlery Hall-Of-Famer© Jimmy Lile. "Another one of the greatest eaters of steel is fingerprints," Magrino observed. "The oils on the body, if left on a blade, will deteriorate and stain it over time. Any steel—even stainless—if not maintained, will corrode in one way or the other." A veteran collector of fine custom knives, Paul Lansingh added an unpleasant yet very real hazard that some knife collectors encounter. "If you display knives at shows, you won't believe how much spittle goes across the table," he said. "You don't see it but, after a half day of people talking to you across your table, unless you have the knives under glass, you've got to clean them." Maybe your knife will never see a display table. Instead, perhaps it is something you use to field dress a deer and get covered with blood, guts and hair. Or, maybe you like to fish and you drop your knife in the bottom of the boat. In any case, there are steps you should take to ensure the long-term care of both collectible and regular using knives. A quick note from Lansingh: "[Animal] blood doesn't affect steel too much; just wash it off. You better be using stainless if you go fishing, and you want to dry the knife off when you get home. If you go deep-sea fishing, you have to take care of [the knife] daily because of the salt water, which is even more corrosive [than fresh water]." Cleaning Cleaning is the first step. Get all the dirt and gunk off and out of your knife with a towel and some cotton swabs. Magrino shot down my usual trusty way of cleaning folders—a can of compressed air. "I don't usually use compressed air on any knife," he offered, "because moisture builds up with the tiny moisture droplets [emitted with the air]. Also, I tell people not to use their own breath. Your breath is wet, so you are basically spitting on the knife." If you must use water to remove stubborn debris, make sure the knife is fully dry afterward before storing it. Lansingh recommends wiping the knife down with a clean towel first, then lightly blowing it with a hair dryer to ensure complete dryness before storage. However, he stressed not to heat the knife up too much, which would be bad for a myriad of obvious reasons. Conditioning For conditioning, the hands-down winner for Oden and Paul Lansingh is Renaissance Wax, a semi-synthetic, microcrystalline, fossil-origin wax from England that is gentle and free of acids. The great all-around restorer/conditioner is especially good on wood and stag handles, according to Oden. "Some of my friends also use Mothers® car wax and say it's great, though I've never tried it," he noted. Knifemaker R.J. Martin introduced Magrino to Sentry Solutions' Tuf-Cloth, which combines state-of-the-art dry-film technology with a lint-free fabric that forms a waterproof shield, will not attract dirt and is dry to the touch. "It will clean the blade if there are fingerprints, blood, grease or dirt," Magrino explained. "It prevents rust and it also lubricates the blade. I always have [a Tuf-Cloth] with me, and I constantly wipe the knife down with it." He added that after the Tuf-Cloth dries up, he still finds it useful for wrapping blades before storage and for carrying in his pocket at shows. "If I go to a maker's table [and pick up a knife], as a courtesy I'll wipe it down and hand it back to him. It's good etiquette," Magrino opined. You do not have to condition knives very often with Renaissance Wax. Lan-singh said once a year is enough for stainless, twice a year with non-stainless blades. Magrino recommends using the Tuf-Cloth "every time your friends put their grubby hands all over your knife." Lubrication For lubrication, Magrino uses another Sentry product called Tuf-Glide, which comes in a bottle with a needle-nose applicator. It is a dry-film lubricant much like what is on the Tuf-Cloth, except you can inject it down into the knife's working mechanism to ensure smooth operation and protect it from corrosion and debris. "It's not like a thick oil that collects dust and lint and acts like glue," Magrino explained. "It's a good lubricant without the hazards of making [the mechanism] all gummy. Cold weather doesn't affect it. Usually you don't need much. A tiny bit will last you a very long time." "I like Break-Free®," said Oden of his choice for lubrication. "It's also my understanding that sharpening oil should never be used as a joint lubricant. I think [that's because] it's too abrasive." A good starter kit for proper all-around knife maintenance is the one by W.R. Case and Sentry Solutions, which comes with a Tuf-Cloth, a small bottle of Tuf-Glide and assorted cleaning utensils. Storage "I never store a knife in its sheath," Lan-singh observed. "A lot of people do and they're asking for trouble." Storing your blade in a leather sheath is bad news, something with which all the collectors quoted in the story concurred. Leather can harm a blade because, being a natural material, it can sweat and attract moisture. Also, acids that get into the leather during the tanning process can leech out and damage steel over the long term. For conditioning and to fight the acidic effects, sheathmaker Kenny Rowe uses a 50/50 concoction of an English product called Ballistol and mink oil. "The bad thing about leather and carbon steel is getting any moisture in there between them," said Rowe, "and that moisture feeds those acids, which in turn attack your blade material. Ballistol really helps out with that, and it's also pretty much a preservative." As noted, Magrino uses his dehumidified safe for his tactical collection. Lansingh, however, said such a safe would not necessarily do for his collection of customs, many of which have handles made from natural materials that could dry out and crack. "I'm not a big fan of dehumidifying anything," he said, "because I think that a normal humidity range doesn't seem to bother my knives. Just normal household humidity is fine. The [atmosphere in the] house doesn't fluctuate like it does outside. The basement, however, is a horrible place to store knives." To fight moisture, Oden keeps silica bags in his fire files with his knives. "About once every two or three years I stick the bags in my pre-heated, 300-dcgree oven, with the oven turned off," he noted. "I leave the silica bags in there for at least two hours, usually longer, and that helps renew them. I probably should do this more often, but it rarely seems to be a high priority item. So far, I haven't had a problem." Conclusion The collectors interviewed in the story have tried-and-true methods for keeping their knives and sheaths in tip-top shape, and so should you. Even if you are not a collector, you should still consider all-around knife maintenance, because having a great knife doesn't only mean that it is sharp. http://www.sentrysolutions.com...13&Store_Code=SENTRY | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Super Karambit...   Handles: Black G-10 epoxy / glass laminate Lock: Aerospace grade Titanium Blade: 154 CM Finish: Black or Satin Grind: Chisel Grind Overall Length: 8.375 in. Blade Length: 3.4 in. Blade Thickness:.125 in. Hardness: 57-59 RC Finger Hole Diameter: .94 | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Fixed Blade Karambit...  Handles: Black G-10 epoxy / glass laminate Blade: 154 CM Premium Blade Steel Finish: Black or Silver Grind: Chisel Grind Overall Length: 7.60 in. Blade Length: 3.2 in. Blade Thickness: .125 in. Hardness: 57-59 RC Weight: 6.4 oz. | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Combat Karambit...  Handles: Black G-10 epoxy / glass laminate Lock: Aerospace grade Titanium Blade: 154 CM Finish: Black Grind: Razor Sharp Chisel Grind Overall Length: 6.80 in. Blade Length: 2.60 in. Handle Length: 4.65 in. Blade Thickness: .125 in. Hardness: 57-59 RC Weight: 3.6 oz. Finger Hole Diameter: .9 in. | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The CQC-7 Karambit...  | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Bullnose Karambit...   | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
La Griffe...  Handles: Skeletonized Handle Blade: 154 CM Finish: Black Oxide Grind: Razor Sharp Chisel Grind Overall Length: 4.9 in. Blade Length: 1.75 in. Blade Thickness: .125 in. Hardness: 57-59 RC Weight: 1.5 oz. | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The Emerson Combat System offers a DVD Series on the Karambit... 
http://www.emersonknives.com/m...&Product_Code=KarDVDThis message has been edited. Last edited by: Czechvar, | |||
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| SIG-Sauer Anthropologist |
two more..  | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
A Journeyman(?) and is that an UBR Commander or Super in jungle? When did you get them? Is the Journeyman to replace that beauty you showed on page 5? Are Emersons a bit more expensive over there? BTW, I've skiied all over Switzerland...I'd love to live near Interlaken or Saillon if I was rich...My wife and I really loved the time we got to spend there, such a beautiful country. | |||
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| SIG-Sauer Anthropologist |
It's not a Journeyman. The top one is a SpecWar A form 2001, the bottom one is green Commander made in 2000. It was available as an option to the standard black version. The one on page 5 is a Specwar A as well. Emersons are too expensive here in EU. I'm importing mine directly form the US. | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
Thanks...Found some info on the SPECWar A... Emerson SPECWAR-A SF-GH This is the knife chosen by NASA to be the official issue knife to the astronauts and the International Space Station Program. The SPECWAR is the official folding version of the Emerson designed SPECWAR fixed blade knife built for the US Navy Specialized Warfare Teams. This knife embodies the handling characteristics required in a hard use, practical-duty knife. Tested by NASA at White Sands Test Site and Laboratory in New Mexico, it is flight certified for space requirements. The tanto style B blade features the super strong, razor sharp, chisel grind and gives you the confidence that this knife will perform in the most extreme conditions. Materials: Handles: G-10 Liner: Titanium Blade 154CM Finish: Satin Specifications: Overall Length: 8.625 in. Blade Length: 3.5 in. Blade Thickness: .125 in. Hardness: 57-59 RC Weight: 4.71 oz.
 This message has been edited. Last edited by: Czechvar, | |||
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| NRA Benefactor Life Member |
The history of the CQC-6...Only available as a Custom now, and one of the cornerstones of the Emerson Legend...From Wiki: The CQC-6 (Close Quarters Combat — Six) or Viper Six is a handmade tactical folding knife with a tantō blade manufactured by knifemaker Ernest Emerson. Although initially reported as the sixth design in an evolution of fighting knives and the first model in the lineup of Emerson's Specwar Custom Knives, Emerson later revealed that the knife was named for SEAL Team Six. It has a chisel-ground blade of ATS-34 or 154CM stainless steel and a handle made of titanium and linen micarta. The CQC-6 is credited as the knife that popularized the concept of the tactical folding knife. Five variants of the CQC6  Specifications The CQC-6 has a 3 5/16" long blade. The handle is 4 5/8" long making the knife close to 8 inches in length when opened. The butt-end of the knife tapers to a point and features a hole for tying a lanyard.[6] The blade profile of most CQC-6's is a Japanese chisel ground tantō with a single bevel or zero-ground blade sharpened on only one side.[7] Early models have a buffline similar to a hamon found on a Japanese Samurai Sword due to a leather buffing wheel used by Emerson to finish his blades.[8] Unlike the typical Japanese chisel-grind, Emerson's grind is on the left-side of the blade as opposed to the right-side.[9] The handle material of the CQC-6 is composed of two titanium liners utilizing a Walker linerlock and a single or double detent as the locking mechanism, although one experimental model exists with a ratchet lock.[7] Titanium bolsters make up the front half of the knife with the back half represented by linen micarta scales. The reasons for using titanium as a linerlock material were due to its strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance.[10] The screws in the handle, and pivot are traditional straight-head screws to accommodate easy disassembly in the field with an improvised tool, if needed.[7] Most models feature traction grooves for a more secure grip in a wet environment and a chamfered lockface. Early knives were made with black linen micarta and later models featured a proprietary green color made exclusively for Emerson.[11] A pocket clip held in place by three screws allows the knife to be clipped to a pocket, web-gear, or MOLLE.[7] History In the mid-1980s, individual Navy SEALs from a West Coast team had been using personally purchased custom fixed-blade knives made by Southern California knifemaker Phill Hartsfield.[1] Hartsfield's knives are hard ground from differentially heat-treated A2 tool steel and are known for their distinctive chisel-ground blades.[1][6] More accurately, they are zero ground; that is, the edge has no secondary bevel, minimizing drag when used for cutting purposes. Emerson had long been impressed by the cutting ability of the chisel-ground edge and had asked Hartsfield's permission to incorporate it into his own folding knives, which Hartsfield granted.[1] When the SEALs asked Hartsfield to make them a folding knife, he informed them that he did not make folding knives and referred them to Emerson who manufactured folding knives utilizing the Walker linerlock.[1][12][13] According to the SEALs' requirements, the knife had to be corrosion resistant, designed for easy cleaning in the field, durable enough to be used on a daily basis as a tool, and capable as a weapon should the need arise.[14] Emerson's folding chisel-ground "tantō" became the sixth model in his Viper series and, while a handful of prototypes were referred to as "Viper 6", the model was soon named the "CQC-6" (CQC refers to "close-quarters combat") and was chosen by the SEALs for use.[12][14][15] Writer, David Steele, refers to the CQC-6 as the sixth model after five prototypes as opposed to the next in the evolution of the Viper line of knives.[1] Emerson, himself, says the moniker "six" was used because the SEALs in question were members of SEAL Team Six. Ownership of a CQC6 soon became something of a status symbol among members of various elite military units, including Navy SEALs, Army Special Forces, German GSG 9, and British SAS.[2][14][16][17][18][19] Because of this connection to the Special Warfare community, Emerson changed the name of his custom knife line to "Specwar Knives", and in 1996 this new designation began appearing in the logo on his line of custom blades.[16] It should be noted that the CQC-6 was not an officially issued item, but rather one that was privately purchased by the troops in question.[20] Richard Marcinko's Rogue Warrior novels (Red Cell, Green Team, Task Force Blue, Detachment Bravo, SEAL Force Alpha, Violence of Action and Holy Terror) prominently feature the CQC-6 as a regularly carried piece of equipment.[21][22][23][24] On page 175 of Task Force Blue, Marcinko remarks that his CQC6 was a "personal gift from Ernie Emerson, himself". The popularity of Marcinko's books helped fuel the popularity of the CQC-6 in particular and Tactical Folding Knives in general beyond the realm of Military and Law-enforcement personnel.[25] Variants While each CQC-6 is made by hand by Emerson, there are certain subtle variations between models of different years. The earliest examples feature the Emerson "half-moon" logo, which is simply the name "EMERSON" arranged in an arc on the blade.[26] This was replaced by the Specwar logo in 1996 which resembles the gunsight on the Stealth aircraft and the moniker "Emerson Specwar Knives". The gunsight logo was briefly replaced by Emerson's Diamond logo for a period of 1 year(2004–2005), until the die to cut the logo was broken and Emerson resumed the Specwar log.[26] In 2004, Emerson incorporated his patented "Wave" opening device into the profile of the blade.[27] The blade finish has almost uniformly been Emerson's trademark satin flats and matte edges. However, some models were made with a Black Tenifer coating. The steel was originally ATS-34 but was replaced by its American equivalent: 154 CM. Emerson has made "dress" versions with Damascus steel blades and Titanium blades with a bonded carbide edge.[28] Emerson has used exotic handle materials such as decorative hardwoods, abalone shell, and mother-of-pearl on these dress variants; these models often feature polished hardware as opposed to the bead blasted bolsters on the tactical models.[28] A few early models featured a titanium backspacer, replaced in later years by a backspacer made of G10 fiberglass.[29] Some early CQC-6's featured cutouts in the micarta handle slabs for a small pair of tweezers as found on the Swiss Army Knife.[14][30] In Japan there are strict laws regarding the manufacture and possession of tantō blades.[28] In response to this, Emerson made a small batch of CQC-6's with a more conventional blade-grind for a Cutlery Show in Seki City.[28] These knives featured the grind on the right-side of the blade as opposed to the left.[28] Emerson makes a 10% scaled up version of the CQC-6 known as the "Super Six" and a 10% scaled down version retro-named the "CQC-5". Like all of Emerson's custom knives there is a 13+ year backlog and no new orders for knives are taken.[31][32][33] In November 2001, Emerson made a one-of-a-kind CQC-6 and auctioned it at the New York Custom Knife Show for the benefit of children whose parents had been killed on 9/11/2001: 100% of the proceeds went to this charity. This knife featured polished hardware, hand-checkered micarta scales, and an engraved blade reading: "We shall strike a dagger deep into the heart of such evil".[34] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CQC-6 | |||
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| SIG-Sauer Anthropologist |
My SpecWar on page 5 once looked the same when it was new. Several crashes and restorations led to how it looks today and a conventionally ground edge. It's a good knife. This one and the CQC7A are probably the best Emerson knive designs IMO. | |||
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