Related Content: Mason's Rifle Room
Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Member |
CRASH_PRO, I also live in St. Louis. Can you PM me and tell me where I can find that Gunsmith? Thanks, | |||
|
| Member |
Trust me, I understand wanting to stick with someone reputable. I’m always nervous when leaving my stuff in someone else’s hands. I would send in a direct message except I can’t figure how… When I click on your profile I don’t see the option to PM you. Everyone else has who did theirs publicly so I don’t see why I can’t just post it here, right? If I’m breaking some rule please let me know. Anyways it was Eric at Helix Gunsmithing which is located inside Top Gun in Arnold, MO right off 55. Not sure where you are located so if you’re unfamiliar with the area it’s about 15-20 minutes south of the Arch assuming no traffic. I’m a gold member for the indoor range which gets you a discount with Helix services, so it may cost a bit more, probably like $85. Still a lot cheaper than the $125 and you save postage. The MPX seems to shoot more accurately now than it did before, so he does great work. He’s also pretty good about responding to emails if you would rather contact him that way, just search for his shop name or call up Top Gun. I’ve had him do several barrel cut/thread and trigger jobs. On one of my cut/thread jobs was for a CVA Scout pistol in .357, cut down to 8” and cerakoted black and I use it as a single shot suppressor host with sub .38 spl. The barrel was fluted and he made me a custom and perfectly clocked thread protector to match the flutes from the cut off portion and I cerakoted it to match all for free and I didn’t even ask, just did it cuz he thought it would be cool. Then again I bring him quite a few of my projects. | |||
|
| Member |
I wonder if it wouldn't be prudent to give the MPX it's own subforum. Probably the MCX too. They are both such diverse weapon systems that I think they could support it. What do you guys think? Any idea when Sig will ship the keymod hand guards and such? | |||
|
| Member |
| |||
|
| Member |
Will they give me a special price or the normal 20% discount for buying the gun? | |||
|
| Member |
my essentials kit cost $139 included three 30rd gen 1 mags and the 3 mag pouch. they took my serial number I believe. My gen 1 mpx strangely enough had the ambi charging handle from the factory. Not sure how. It was manufactured in Oct. 2015. The gun had the flyer for the special deal. Said it expired December 31st but I'm guessing they'll honor it still for others? | |||
|
| Member |
I completely bypass the intermediate notch when extending the telescoping stock. Full open to full closed with the help of an epoxy putty. You can find the epoxy stick at any auto parts store. Upon kneading, the grey/black putty hardens like steel. I vigorously roll it between my palms for 30 seconds to blend the two epoxy parts. It's meant to be worked by hand, like dough. You have about 5 minutes of working time to shape the putty. This stuff is as handy as duct tape. Just press the putty into the intermediate notch and smooth it to blend into the rail surface. The spring detent will glide right over the covered notch. The stock will fully extend with one tug! CheersThis message has been edited. Last edited by: armedjetflyer, | |||
|
| Member |
You're a genius. | |||
|
| Member |
That is a great solution! I also found that if you do not want to alter the slide rails, just hold the MPX vertically with the muzzle pointed up and press the release button on the stock - it will fully extend and lock. | |||
|
| Member |
That is true but you have to be pretty skilled to release the button after the first notice but before the last otherwise the stock will completely fall out. Not sure i would count on that method in a stress induced situation. Part of the reason i bought an MPX was because of the awesome PDW stock but i feel let down by it honestly... Heavy, poor cheek weld, really short LOP, slow to deploy (unless you do the epoxy method which is really clever) and pulls out my beard when i put my face too close to the base (get stuck between the rod and the mount, and due the the short LOP it's hard for me to keep my face away from it). I just ordered a KM stock, from what i've heard it is better in about every way. The telescoping/folding one seems to be the most practical but it's just too ugly and looks really wide when folded. | |||
|
| Member |
I dont care for the stock either but if u loosen the bottom setscrew slightly its made to stop the rods from coming out but release from the notches when pressed in all the way. Right now it sounds like your botton set screw is too tight and when u push the release button its pushing it in too far. Guy Titleiiarms Dilliner, PA | |||
|
| Member |
Its actually the other way around. Loose set screw to remove rails, tighten to prevent. I got a KateMoss stock, and struggled to remove my Tele stock. The rails need to be extended past the last stop (or removed) to slip the whole tele stock assembly off the 1913 rail. The set screw on the bottom is removed revealing another set screw below. The inner set set screw defines how much the button will depress. If you want to push the button in more and remove the stock, you need to back out the set screw. If the stock comes off too easy, tighten that sucker up. I was able to find a sweet spot. If I do the "point muzzle skyward and push button", it drops full open and locks. But if I push the button REALLY hard I can remove the stock rails. At a local gun shop, GT Distributors Austin, they have a poor lonely MPX carbine. It sits in a rack out in the middle of shopping lanes, and I picked it up to give it a little love. When I aimed it skyward and extended the stock, it fell clean out, landing on the floor. Not great. Upon further inspection, the outer set screw was missing, and the inner set screw was backed way out. I really wanted to fix it. Poor thing. Moral of the story, the set screws control things, find a spot you like with the inner, and protect it with the outer. | |||
|
| Member |
LOL .. Yea.. its late. U are right about the screw. The rods should not come out normally no matter how hard u push the release though. Who wants the rods to come out if u push a little too hard ? Take out the setscrews if u want to remove the butt stock for some reason. Like the MP5 platform. The stock design is cool for close quarters work with heavy vests for added length, but it hurts the cheek and there is no way to fix that and have it still close. Guy Titleiiarms Dilliner, PA | |||
|
| Member |
That is true but you have to be pretty skilled to release the button after the first notice but before the last otherwise the stock will completely fall out. Not sure i would count on that method in a stress induced situation.[QUOTE] That is interesting! I don't know if there is a difference between the MCX/MPX short-rail stock and the MPX long-rail stock, but my long rail releases and fully opens/locks in one easy step when you push the button without the rails falling out. I even tried pulling the rails entirely out with the button depressed HARD and they do not move past the fully extended position. Maybe some just come from the factory with the set-screw adjusted correctly - I will consider myself LUCKY on this one! | |||
|
| Member |
Since I got the folding stock, I am deciding which I want to keep on there. More than once I have changed stocks at the range. In this mode, being able to remove the rails with a hard, deliberate push works fine. When I make up my mind, I would adjust the set screws so it does not come out. The adjustment really is trivial, and easy. But you do have to remove one set screw and put it aside to do the other. I want to do this at home where I am less likely to loose one! | |||
|
| Member |
I have found that the innermost set screw will move out of adjustment, even with the secondary set screw tightened snug against it. I used Blue (removable) Locktite on the first set screw and totally eliminated the second set screw. | |||
|
| Member |
Can someone (LDD?) confirm that the "K" will release this month? | |||
|
| Member |
Does anyone know what page the caliber exchange kit info is on? Including the reduced cost for gen 1 owners I called Sig to order a 4inch 9mm upper for my gen 1 hoping to take advantage of the gen1 discount and was told I would first have to buy the gen 2 upper in 40 or 357 and then buy the 4inch 9mm barrel that I want. They say that was the only way to take advantage of the gen1 discount. I thought I read on here that they would honor the gen1 discount on any barrel length/caliber, not just the 40 or 357. Also, any idea on what that may cost? They also couldn't not tell me that information | |||
|
| Member |
Thank you, I appreciate the info. It does make sense, but I can kind of see their point, only a little though | |||
|
| Member |
Is there any new info. as to when SIG is going to sell the 4.5 inch barrel for the Gen 1? | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 ... 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 ... 137 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
© SIGforum 2024