quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:
On to a new no start problem.
Car started almost immediately yesterday, happily.
Went to run an errand today & just get a click.

Noticed one of the posts on the ign solenoid was loose, tightened it up, still just a click...
Got it to crank once, in the middle of trying, then nothing.

Got a 2nd set of eyes/hands on it yesterday. My dad was down for Easter dinner & we got out to take a look at it.
Bad starter solenoid.
It clicks with the key, but isn't passing power to the starter.

Hope to get a replacement this week & get her back to running again.

Then back to planning the fuel pump/crankcase vent project.

New solenoid installed & she's back to life.
Now back to the prior project of fuel supply & oil leak resolutions.

Buddy got a new [to him, 2020] C8.
Had to take the Midget to dance class with my middle daughter & get a shot together

Is that OEM steering wheel? That thing is YUUUGE!

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:
Is that OEM steering wheel? That thing is YUUUGE!

Yup, 15in IIRC.
Plan is to put in a 13in, once I get the mechanicals sorted & it's more consistently drivable.

Ordered & received an electric fuel pump for the Midget. Went with a Facet solid state, from recommendations on the MG forum.
Now to find the time to get it installed. Really it alleviates the vapor lock situation that's keeping me from putting some miles on the car.

Should then be able to remove the stock mechanical pump & put a blockoff plate there [supposed to be the same as a SBC V8]. Plate will get drilled & a 90* fitting installed & run up to a mini-K&N which hopefully rids the small oil leak after driving.
Consensus is, a non-SU/ZS equipped car doesn't pull enough vacuum from the system & oil pushes out due to increased crankcase pressure. Mine has a downdraft Weber & just the small valve cover vent to the air filter base. Seems the SU/ZS pull actual vacuum.

Worst case, if the oil leak persists. It'll be a pull the engine & replace the gaskets all around [except probably the head gasket].

Once those to issues are confirmed resolved, she'll start racking up the mileage.

Midget lives, and more importantly 'dies' again.

Had an intermittent issue where the starter would engage when the key was moved to the 'off' position.
Got bad enough that it took disconnecting the battery to remove the key without running the starter.

Put in a new ignition switch this morning. Much more positive 'clicks' for each key position.

The ignition switch is held to the column by 2 anti-theft bolts [guessing torque to yield & the head snaps off].
Had to notch them with a Dremel. Had hoped to do it without pulling the steering column, but couldn't get on them with it in place.
Pulled the column, which also let me clean up some of the wiring behind the dash.

Had 1 other problem, it was leaking fuel at the fuel filter just before the carb. Turned out to just be a loose filter body. Tightened it up & no further leaks.

Hindsight, it could've been done without pulling the whole ignition assembly, but it's done & a successful test drive over a few miles without incident.

Now back to getting the elec fuel pump replaced & the crankcase vent off the old mech pump.

Man I'd forgotten about this, old vehicles require the patience of Job...... and money, lots and lots of money LOL

Luckily, on the 2nd point. Most of the stuff on these is relatively inexpensive.
The ign switch was $18

Spoke too soon. The can of worms continues.

2nd drive today, went to pick up my kid at band practice.
2 stops from home on the return trip, lost the clutch. Master is empty, guessing the slave failed.

Back to drivable.
New hose between the clutch master & slave.
Took forever to bleed it, but it's back on the road. If I ever do it again, I think I'll try reverse bleeding it. Almost need 3 people to do it. 1 to work the bleeder, 1 to run the clutch & 1 to keep the reservoir full.