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quote:
Originally posted by sns3guppy:
Solvents are not lubricants.

Solvents remove lubricants.

Solvents aren't preservatives. They remove preservatives.

Preservatives aren't lubricants.

All-in-one, isn't.

Don't.


Not exactly. Alcohol removes oil based lube yes, as do some other solvents. But petroleum solvents can remove non-petroleum carbon fouling, and still leave effective lubrication. Gasoline can clean and is still oily enough to lube. Diesel is better in both.
 
Posts: 4690 | Location: Indiana | Registered: December 28, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Yeah, that M14 video guy...
Picture of benny6
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Never heard of Clenzoil before. I'll have to check it out. I don't live in freezing temps, so the -40 thing isn't important to me.

Tony.


Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL
www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction).
e-mail: tonyben@tonybenm14.com
 
Posts: 5373 | Location: Auburndale, FL | Registered: February 13, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
To all of you who are serving or have served our country, Thank You
Picture of Jelly
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quote:
Originally posted by benny6:
Never heard of Clenzoil before. I'll have to check it out.
Tony.

I had not either but it sure did very well on wear testing on PF. I ordered some to add to my lubricant stash. Looks like veteran owned business and made in USA.
 
Posts: 2675 | Registered: March 15, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The cake is a lie!
Picture of Nismo
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I have some Clenzoil on order.
I do have their grease. Beware though, that stuff is super thick, It's like axle grease and gets everything blue.
 
Posts: 7415 | Location: CA | Registered: April 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of OttoSig
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Just for the sake of it I wish it had included a standard 10W-30 motor oil.

Like others have mentioned, I clean, lubricate and protect with different items.

I'll clean with everything from alcohol, brake cleaner, hoppes, depending on finish, grips, etc.

I'll lubricate with just about anything as well, as to date 100% of my shooting has been planned, I don't need something that will lubricate next month, just the next 30 minutes. When stateside I cleaned and lubricated my carry firearm more than once a week so not too much worry there.

Protection is something Ive had to deal with lately being gone. I've conceded that drowning something in any sort of lubricant/oil based solution and bagging it up air tight is gonna do the trick, sometimes nasty to clean but free of rust.

Had an LCP go to shit inside one month in the Hawaii humidity. Not again. From now on I'll put em away wet and just deal with it later.





11 years to retirement! Just waiting!
 
Posts: 6254 | Location: Maryland | Registered: August 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That guys tests are hit and miss in my experience. None of his tests use standardized protocols and wouldn’t hold up in a lab. I consider his results “informed anecdotes.” And he often gets quirky results because of that “Stihl chainsaws at the bottom of the list.” Or the obvious “pot metal pliers from China do work as well as US or German forged.” I’ve used Clenzoil and Ballistol for a long time. I used to do lubricant formulation for marine diesels. None of my guns show any wear. Do yours? That’s your test
 
Posts: 146 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was given a small pump bottle of Clenzoil .
It smelled just like turpentine. Worked ok. Didn’t WOW me .
 
Posts: 705 | Location: S.W.Florida | Registered: August 18, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I tried Clenzoil a few years ago. I thought that it was a good lubricant and protector and found it useful for shotgun cleaning. However, I had to stop using it due to it giving me sinus headaches. I don't like the odor, but I am more sensitive to those things than most.
 
Posts: 655 | Location: Northern Colorado, USA | Registered: September 25, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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CLP has been around for - umm, we lube you long time now GI. 45 years? Still in use.

It has enough solvent to remove light carbon residues, enough lube to keep an M16 running, and enough preservative to prevent oxidation. Is it perfect, no, it is taxpayer friendly and keep arms running in the field in harsh conditions, yes.

The bottle states shake well because the powdered teflon needs to be well distributed to get applied. As an all in one product there are a lot of gun owners who do worse using other products in an off label application - like spray condensate removers intended for pre launch missile applications.

Choose what you like, the more important thing is to use it, regularly, as storing weapons is likely the hardest thing on them in the American household. Lack of humidity control is the most serious abuse - guns in cars, basements etc. - and them sitting for months if not years means we really need to wipe then down and lube them again every 6 months.
 
Posts: 613 | Registered: December 14, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I wanna go home
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I use Butches bore shine and good ole Hoppes #9 for cleaning and M-Pro 7 for lubrication. The M pro does not run or dry up.
 
Posts: 1199 | Location: Pa | Registered: December 16, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Lefty Sig:


Not exactly. Alcohol removes oil based lube yes, as do some other solvents. But petroleum solvents can remove non-petroleum carbon fouling, and still leave effective lubrication. Gasoline can clean and is still oily enough to lube. Diesel is better in both.


Not true, at all.

Gasoline does not lubricate. Gasoline does not "leave effective lubrication."

If you really believe that ridiculous idea, clean your firearm in gasoline, don't bother to add lubrication afterword, and go forth to shoot.

Are you suggesting that gasoline, a petroleum product (and solvent), dissolves and removes "non-petroleum carbon," and yet doesn't dissolve or remove petroleum lubricants?

If you use a solvent to dissolve and remove lubricants, that solvent is not a lubricant. It is a solvent. Classic case: WD-40. It's treated as a lubricant. It is a solvent. Despite advertising claims, to use WD-40 as a lubricant is unwise.

Shampoo that claims to be a conditioner and a cleaner is an advertising gimmick. The notion of CLP, despite many years of military use, is a poor choice. Despite the name, it is not a valid protectant, nor lubricant. Far better products exist.

Kroil is a very handy product, and works great on stuck bolts, dissolving grease, etc. It has poor shear properties and while low viscosity and low surface tension allows it to penetrate tight spots, it's not a lubricant one should be applying to machinery. There's a reason it's something you'd use to fill an engine sump (and if you did, you'd expect considerable wear). It's not a useful storage product to prevent oxidation or corrosion. It does some things very well, other things not as well. It is not an all in one solution.

If you want to lubricate, get a lubricant. If you want to clean, get a solvent. If you want to preserve, there are products appropriate for that, depending on the nature, duration, environment, and type of preservation, as well as intended use while in a state of preservation.

Cleaner-lubricant-preservative, is not.
 
Posts: 6650 | Registered: September 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Peace through
superior firepower
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I like Project Farm's videos, especially since he tells you where everything he tests is made.

Regarding CLPs/lubricants, all I know is that after many years of trying all firearms lubes I could get my hands on, and having a box full of them to prove it, I settled on SLIP 2000 products. The EWL, EWL30 amd the EWG grease are what I will use on my rifles and handguns for as long as they are available.

If not for SLIP 2000, I'd still be using FP-10 and Slide Glide (which is high-temperature bearing grease). Slide Glide oxidizes over time, and while it probably remains effective after it turns that shit-brown color, I just don't like the change.

Slip 2000 products can be mixed (per the manufacturer) to give a custom viscosity. For the bolt carriers of my ARs, I mix EWL30 and EWG. I can lubricate the 4 bearing surfaces of a bolt carrier and come back to it 6 months later and these surfaces still glisten with my grease/oil mixture.

If that's not enough, take a look at this S.W.A.T. Magazine article: Filthy 14: Bravo Company Carbine Goes 31,165 Rounds


____________________________________________________

"I am your retribution." - Donald Trump, speech at CPAC, March 4, 2023
 
Posts: 107260 | Registered: January 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by RogueJSK:

I do keep a smaller bottle of Breakfree CLP stashed in my range gear, for times when I just need something to get me by until I can get back to my workbench. In secondary situations like that, the convenience of carrying one bottle makes up for the fact that it's not as good at any of the roles as a dedicated product.


That's what a CLP is all about.


____________________
 
Posts: 15844 | Location: Florida | Registered: June 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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"Not true, at all.

Gasoline does not lubricate. Gasoline does not "leave effective lubrication."

If you really believe that ridiculous idea, clean your firearm in gasoline, don't bother to add lubrication afterword, and go forth to shoot.

Are you suggesting that gasoline, a petroleum product (and solvent), dissolves and removes "non-petroleum carbon," and yet doesn't dissolve or remove petroleum lubricants?"

Actually, gasoline is a lubricant. Particularly in fuel injection systems which operate at extreme pressures. Additives are sometimes used as well to aid in the lubricity of gasoline and diesel. But gasoline has an inherent lubricity. Certainly not the same as best in class, but it protects your entire fuel system from corrosion and wear. Gasoline is not one molecule but hundreds of different ones, plus the additives.

Gasoline lubricity has been studied extensively for decades and there are standardized tests for it.

CLPs are generally similar in that the lubricant and solvent are mixed. The solvent generally evaporates leaving the lubricant behind. Anti corrosion is nearly all additive.
 
Posts: 146 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I use mpro 7 cleaner and oil. Works great for me.


For ME:
DA/SA= Sig 9mm
Striker fired= Glock 9mm
If it's a .45= 1911
Suppressed= HK in .45
I like anything in 10mm

 
Posts: 1442 | Location: VA | Registered: July 29, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Road Dog
Picture of BennerP220
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I will agree with Para. I now use Slip 2000 for everything. I have a my shelf of others I have purchased throughout the years but Slip does everything for me that I need. I love the EWL30 the most! I now use that on my sig rails instead of grease. YMMV
 
Posts: 3443 | Location: Southwest Indiana | Registered: December 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for this video! I wasn't aware of this channel!

I use Breakfree CLP for cleaning (barrel, breech, extractor, etc.) and either wipe it off with an old white t-shirt, or use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner. I re-lube with Wilson Combat Ultima Lube oil, which sticks like glue, is slick as a gut, but does have petroleum in it. I wipe the exterior with...Rem Oil. I know, that stuff is awful, but for exterior protection, I've had decades of success with it, especially around sights here in the humid South. IMHO, this is all Rem Oil is good for, and I do not use Rem Oil as a lubricant because it's useless in that role.

I agree with Para on some greases changing color and looking bad. Maybe not a problem, but who knows? The M-Pro 7 grease I used turned from white to dark yellow, and even hardened to a small degree. Because of this, I cleaned it off my M9A3 and 6940 BCG and just moved forward with the Ultima Lube oil.
 
Posts: 1087 | Location: Arkansas | Registered: September 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Challer:
Actually, gasoline is a lubricant. Particularly in fuel injection systems which operate at extreme pressures. Additives are sometimes used as well to aid in the lubricity of gasoline and diesel.


No, gasoline is not a lubricant. Don't confuse the word "lubricity" with it being a lubricant. Lubricity of various gasolines and other fuels is not the same as being a lubricant, nor does the term imply that gasoline is a lubricant. Lubricity in gasoline is a complex subject, and don't confuse "lubricity" in a fluid environment with lubrication.

There's a reason that you don't pour gasoline all over your firearm then do several dozen magazine dumps. Gasoline removes lubrication, because it's a solvent.

Back in the day, we used to use aviation gasoline in garden sprayers to clean up radial engines prior to working on them. We referred to it as "wing solvent," because the gasoline was stored in the wing. We drained it into the garden sprayers, and sprayed the engines to remove oil. The engines quickly dried clean, without a trace of lubrication left behind.

Gasoline is not something you would, or could, or should expect to use to clean your firearm, and hope that you've just lubricated it. It's an idiotic notion. You've just removed the lubrication. Again, the word sounds similar, but the meaning is not the same: lubricity, vs. lubricant. Lubricity refers to the fluid property, not what's left behind, and a hydraulic fuel-wetted component which uses the "lubricity" of the fuel does not make gasoline a lubricant. It's a solvent.

Gasoline is not a metal preservative, and one should not expect to wash a component in gasoline (stripping lubricants), and expect any residue to preserve or protect the metal from oxidation. Not in the least.

Fuel wetted components that utilize the fuel's "lubricity" do not make, nor imply, the fuel to be a lubricant. Those fuel-wetted components are designed to operate in the fuel stream, and may be actuated by the fuel or utilize the hydraulic properties of the fuel in operation. That doesn't make fuel a lubricant.

Older aircraft engines, including light aircraft engines and large radials, utilized systems that put gasoline into the oil prior to shutdown in cold climates; the purpose was to thin the oil to improve flow during the next start, and to prevent the oil congealing. The fuel was not a lubricant, despite being placed into the oil sump. The fuel was a solvent used to thin the oil. The fuel would evaporate out of the oil during the warm-up until the oil returned to it's expected viscosity.

Gasoline is not the correct medium to fill your car engine: oil is used for that. Oil has the correct properties, gasoline does not. Oil is a lubricant, and serves as a preservative. Gasoline is not, and does not.
 
Posts: 6650 | Registered: September 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’m not confused at all. Lubricity is what we care about in lubrication engineering. I’ve designed bearings, ring packs, HP fuel injection for many truck/loco/marine engine manufacturers. Anecdotal experience is good and can be misleading. I believe you are hung up on the duality of a single fluid being both lubricant and solvent. Done with this conversation
 
Posts: 146 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of OttoSig
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quote:
Originally posted by Challer:
I’m not confused at all. Lubricity is what we care about in lubrication engineering. I’ve designed bearings, ring packs, HP fuel injection for many truck/loco/marine engine manufacturers. Anecdotal experience is good and can be misleading. I believe you are hung up on the duality of a single fluid being both lubricant and solvent. Done with this conversation


This is a recurring thing. Just let it go.





11 years to retirement! Just waiting!
 
Posts: 6254 | Location: Maryland | Registered: August 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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