quote:

Originally posted by djpaintles:
If you like Convex edges and use them a lot or most of the time, the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition the the grinding attachment is pretty sweet and it's FAST!

I used the KME system for years and was extremely happy with the results. It has been sitting in a box in the closet since I got the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition w/ the grinding attachment over a year ago. The Work Sharp system has taught me 2 things:

1) I prefer convex edges
2) How truly lazy I've become.

I've done mirror edges before but I figure what's the point? I know I like spit shining my shoes but with knives, it seems like a waste of time since I use them.

I was able to get mirror edges using my Ken Onion Work Sharp going down to a Micro0Mesh 12000 grit or about 1.5 micron, then a strop belt with diamond paste .1 micron, finishing up on balsa and leather strops I made embedded with .25 micron diamond suspended solution.

But these days, I reserve my finest sharpening for my razor blades. I use Shapton HR stones with a progression from 29.4 micron, 7.35 micron (for initial shaping), then 3.68, 1.84, 0.92, and 0.49 micron. I finish again with the balsa and leather strops with .25 micron diamonds.

I use the Shapton Diamond Lapping Plate to maintain the stones but I don't go crazy with it.




Edited to add a picture of a mirror edge that I did.

quote:

Originally posted by pace40:

quote:

Originally posted by djpaintles:
If you like Convex edges and use them a lot or most of the time, the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition the the grinding attachment is pretty sweet and it's FAST!

I used the KME system for years and was extremely happy with the results. It has been sitting in a box in the closet since I got the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition w/ the grinding attachment over a year ago. The Work Sharp system has taught me 2 things:

1) I prefer convex edges
2) How truly lazy I've become.

I think you can minimize the convexity by using very little pressure and just letting the belt and speed do the work.

I could never make the Lansky set work very well. The clamp came loose, the guide didn't seem positive enough, and it just didn't give me good results.

As a result, I learned to sharpen freehand. I am pretty good at it. I doubt I could get a mirror edge, although I haven't really tried.

Mirror edges would be good for razors and planes, but maybe not much else. If you want to do it for funsies, I get it, and I have been tempted.

I've considered various of the guided systems, but have stuck with my flat stones for now.

I never got great results from Lansky or the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I now use a Wicked Edge Go and still have my Edge Pro. Both are capable of mirror edges. My patience however is the limiting factor.

Late to this party but I'll add my 2cents.

I started with spyderco tri sharp, then went to stones, then went to worksharp because stones took so long. After that I got the original wicked sharp and realized that type of system was superior and easy to mirror polish.

I sold all of those items here on the forums and ended up ordering the tsprof from Russia with all the bells and whistles. More importantly the blank aluminum stone holders.

I use wet dry sand paper on those blanks with spray adhesive. Grits from 60 to 120k.

It is extremely easy to be precise with the digital angle measures and controls to adjust the angle of the edge to fractions of a degree. You just lock in the knife, turn a knob till the angle is what you want and start setting a bevel or an edge.

I can read a newspaper on the edge of a blade.

I don't do all my knives like that, like Para said so many knives some will not get used so why not make them fancy and set them aside.

Working on a project build & after finishing a “thorny” acid etch I used my TSProf Kadet & Shapton stones to add this mirrored edge to a D2 blade.
*I’m making custom scales from East Indian Rosewood.

quote:

Originally posted by GrumpyBiker:
Working on a project build & after finishing a “thorny” acid etch I used my TSProf Kadet & Shapton stones to add this mirrored edge to a D2 blade.
*I’m making custom scales from East Indian Rosewood.

GB- Nobody does it better!

Berg Blade “SLiM” M390

Got another set of stones (Naniwa Chosera) & decided to give them a test drive on a new Dirk Pinkerton collab in 20CV.

Turned out okay.

Factory edge, I can’t take credit but mirror.

A Bugout I’d traded for a year ago found its way into the Kadet, 15DPS.

I was told a good reason for the mirror polish, at least for non-stainless steels, is that rust has a harder time starting on a mirror polish. I have 2 ESEE-3 knives, one polished edge, the other factory. The polished edge is definitely much more rust resistant than the factory edge, in my experience.

quote:

Originally posted by DrDan:
I was told a good reason for the mirror polish, at least for non-stainless steels, is that rust has a harder time starting on a mirror polish. I have 2 ESEE-3 knives, one polished edge, the other factory. The polished edge is definitely much more rust resistant than the factory edge, in my experience.

You can see this same thing in action on Hinderer knives. Blades with their "working finish" will rust much more readily than those with a stonewash finish. The stonewash creates a more flat, even surface where the working finish has a slight texture. The texture increases surface area and has pockets that trap moisture. Some folks won't even buy or carry working finish Hinderers because of this issue.

Working finish (bottom) vs stonewash (top)




As for getting a polished edge, I get very good results using Spyderco fine & ultrafine stones then a strop with green compound. I typically don't go the point of true mirror but it would only take a little more time. I have done it on a few though.

I now have flat stones that I use in addition to the Sharpmaker.

Added a Hinderer Halftrack in Magnacut blade steel to the collection & it arrived as the dullest knife from the factory I’ve every bought.

It is no longer in that condition! LoL

Nice looking knives Grumpy, I guess I'm lazy too. Like a couple others said, I've got the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition and it puts that mirror finish on the blade easily.

I use an early model of the Wicked Edge.
Never could get the Lansky to work that well.
When I first started sharpening I liked to get that mirror edge but I find in working knives - some micro serrations are much more effective.
Bonus is I don't have to keep sharpening.

I have a Wicked Edge from circa 2010. I always thought it had potential in the design but it didn’t hold up very well and I didn’t even use it a lot. Too thin on the linkages so over time it got a little sloppy. I could get that mirror edge but like others, my patience was usually thinner than my edge. I think their design concept is superior to others having the ability to work both sides of the edge at the same time. It the execution of the concept that falls short IMO.

I now have the TSPROF Kadet and I really like it. It’s built heavier, easier to dial in to your angle and hold it. It seems easier to put that polished edge on. GB just makes the rest of us look stupid

I am surprised at both types on how fast the stones wear. I’d say after 10-15 sharpenings I can visibly see the wear of material on the stones.