AMSEC Electronic Locks

AMSEC has their own line of electronics locks, including the model ESL5, ESL15, ESL10XL, and ESL20XL, among others. Like the LaGard and S&G lines, there are various options and features available.

I do not rate AMSEC locks as highly as most other brands, including LP, NL, LaGard, and S&G. I've had a few issues with failures that lead me to not recommend them as a first choice. They can be a good lock (they do carry a UL Type 1 rating), but I would verify any concerns with AMSEC if you are noticing problems getting into one.

AMSEC locks need fresh batteries of the correct type, especially the solenoid dead bolt and latch bolt models.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: striker1,

Sargent & Greenleaf Electronic Locks

Sargent & Greenleaf is a world leader in mechanical and electronic locks and makes one of the better electronic locks on the market, IMHO.

One caveat: if you currently have an older Model 6120 MOTORIZED D-DRIVE lock, I would advise having it inspected or replaced. This is a motorized retractable bolt design that has been known to suffer motor failure. A well-trained Safe Tech may still be able to open the lock with minimal destructive methods, but you'll need a new lock anyway.

The newer better choice is the commercial Model 2006/2007 Titan lock. The 2006 is a pivot bolt while the 2007 is a manual Direct Drive. You can also get the 1006/1007 Spartan lock geared more to the home user, with a few less features. For the purposes of this guide I am ignoring high-security locks like the Electromechanical 2740B, which is typically used in a GSA environment.

Perhaps the biggest concern with this 1006/1007 or 2006/2007 lock is the battery connector. When replacing the battery, it's very important to follow the instructions and make sure the cable is not pinched in the outer rotary ring. Otherwise, a great lock choice (in pivot or d-drive) depending on the design of your safe.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: striker1,

I have a Liberty Fatboy. Is there a reliable electronic lock for this safe? My wife hates trying to put the combination in.

quote:

Originally posted by fizteach:
I have a Liberty Fatboy. Is there a reliable electronic lock for this safe? My wife hates trying to put the combination in.

For a replacement electronic lock I like the S&G Titan model. Either the manual direct drive or the pivot bolt would do based on your specific safe design. You also have some choices with LaGard, LP, NL, AMSEC and a couple others. A LaGard “BASIC” model is a fine lock; there are a bunch of them installed out there.

Your local safe tech can guide you on the best choice (dead bolt vs pivot bolt) based on the safe’s boltwork. Some models might have too much “play” when a pivot bolt type is installed so take that into consideration.

If you are looking to get into a little bit more exotic territory with a Electronic/Mechanical redundant lock, there are options available with each of the major lock manufacturers. I’m not entirely sold myself on redundant locks, but that doesn’t mean it wouldn’t be right for you.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: striker1,

updated with Sargent & Greenleaf and AMSEC information.

I have a Browning/ProSteel with a mechanical lock. Any longterm problems or issues I should be aware of?

Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by BB61:
I have a Browning/ProSteel with a mechanical lock. Any longterm problems or issues I should be aware of?

Thanks!

Do you know what type of mechanical lock? Could be a S&G 6730, or a cheaper 6741 (probably this), or possibly a LaGard 3330?

If I need a safe tech. do I look for someone on this list? It seems to cover the whole country.

http://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

SAVTA is a good organization, great place to find a qualified tech.

NL (LP) “Doomsday” Redundant Dual Lock

I wanted to talk a bit about the NL redundant combination lock. This is a fairly new lock (early 2017 release) that provides a UL Type 1 electronic lock and group 2M 4-wheel mechanical lock in a single package. It isn’t designed for all types of safes. Because it’s a handed swingbolt, it can only be mounted as a right hand configuration.



I haven’t used this lock as of yet. I’m hoping to show it to a customer in the next 2-3 weeks and I’ll provide some feedback once I have an opportunity to do so.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: striker1,

LP Locks

LP Locks LLC is a new lock company (2007) backed by a long tradition of industry heritage (LaGard and NL provide designs).

Not much history on these locks, but with the support and backing of Nick Gartner, LP looks to be a solid contender in the electronic lock market.

Thanks for all the info, striker1.

I've long-considered replacing the mechanical lock on my safe ("LG" on the face of the lock, so LaGard?) with an electronic lock, but the regular failure reports I read here scare me away.

Yes, most likely a LaGard, although I’ve seen some safes using a LaGard or other “name brand” dial kit with an inferior lock inside the door.

You can have great results with an e-lock. The main issues are that it be properly installed (this is crucial with types that the cable moves inside the arbor shaft), and that one knows the signs to look for when / if a lock acts up.

Modern e-locks will offer a good decade of service at least. I still favor the good old mechanical (6730 being the standard) for what you’d consider a lifetime of service, but I don’t recommend against e-locks assuming it’s been installed by the book and care is taken with battery cables, replacement, etc.

quote:

Originally posted by striker1:

quote:

Originally posted by HK Ag:
Striker1 an observation/question from my use.

I have a S&G dial combination lock on my safe. I find that when I rotate my combo and seemingly properly land on the right digits it is hit or miss if the final stop hits and allows the safe handle to spin and open....

By all my beliefs I have properly landed on the digits but it is not always opening. It may take me 3-5 times of this before it unlocks.

Other times performing the same process the lock will open the first time.

Is this a sign that I may have a lock issue?

Thanks for your wise council!
Hope you get well more importantly.

HK Ag

The easiest thing to do is to have the combination reset. You can set it to the same number. It is something you can do on your own, but best to have a tech come in and inspect the lock and linkage too. Various things can cause this, including buildup in the lock, dry factory lube (***NEVER LUBE ANY COMBINATION LOCK*** other than factory points), stuck flies, slipped wheel, and a few other things.

One thing very important about choosing a combination for a mechanical lock. You MUST avoid the “no go” or forbidden zone on the last number. Rule of thumb, no number higher than 90 and lower than 25. You can adjust this IF YOU KNOW the specifics on your mechanical lock, drop in point, whether it’s MR or other than Group 2, and other factors.

Is it possible that HK has the same problem my LaGard mechanical lock does? It would take me several tries spinning the dial until it would open. I eventually discovered that the combination was set slightly off the numbers and if I subtracted 0.5 from each digit, it opened 100% reliably every time on the first try. Is this something I should be concerned about, or can I just live with it long term? Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by tsmccull:

quote:

Originally posted by striker1:

quote:

Originally posted by HK Ag:
Striker1 an observation/question from my use.

I have a S&G dial combination lock on my safe. I find that when I rotate my combo and seemingly properly land on the right digits it is hit or miss if the final stop hits and allows the safe handle to spin and open....

By all my beliefs I have properly landed on the digits but it is not always opening. It may take me 3-5 times of this before it unlocks.

Other times performing the same process the lock will open the first time.

Is this a sign that I may have a lock issue?

Thanks for your wise council!
Hope you get well more importantly.

HK Ag

The easiest thing to do is to have the combination reset. You can set it to the same number. It is something you can do on your own, but best to have a tech come in and inspect the lock and linkage too. Various things can cause this, including buildup in the lock, dry factory lube (***NEVER LUBE ANY COMBINATION LOCK*** other than factory points), stuck flies, slipped wheel, and a few other things.

One thing very important about choosing a combination for a mechanical lock. You MUST avoid the “no go” or forbidden zone on the last number. Rule of thumb, no number higher than 90 and lower than 25. You can adjust this IF YOU KNOW the specifics on your mechanical lock, drop in point, whether it’s MR or other than Group 2, and other factors.

Is it possible that HK has the same problem my LaGard mechanical lock does? It would take me several tries spinning the dial until it would open. I eventually discovered that the combination was set slightly off the numbers and if I subtracted 0.5 from each digit, it opened 100% reliably every time on the first try. Is this something I should be concerned about, or can I just live with it long term? Thanks.

Well, you can probably live with it until it becomes a real pain. Some of what you describe is just normal wear and tear, or possibly a loose/misaligned dial ring. The LaGard lock will need to be checked also, and probably has a buildup of carbon/dry lube inside. There could be scoring on the wheel post, and otherwise the lock may need to be disassembled and cleaned up. As a rule, if I encounter an older LaGard lock in a bank with the scoring, it just gets replaced. A lock should never get any lube OTHER THAN that prescribed by the factory, and that is in very specific points.

quote:

Well, you can probably live with it until it becomes a real pain. Some of what you describe is just normal wear and tear, or possibly a loose/misaligned dial ring. The LaGard lock will need to be checked also, and probably has a buildup of carbon/dry lube inside. There could be scoring on the wheel post, and otherwise the lock may need to be disassembled and cleaned up. As a rule, if I encounter an older LaGard lock in a bank with the scoring, it just gets replaced. A lock should never get any lube OTHER THAN that prescribed by the factory, and that is in very specific points.

Appreciate your advice. The half off problem has existed since the lock was new, so I’m guessing it’s likely some sort of original dial misalignment that occurred when it was initially set up. I have the LaGard combination changing key, just haven’t bothered trying to use it yet.

quote:

Originally posted by striker1:
NL (LP) “Doomsday” Redundant Dual Lock

I wanted to talk a bit about the NL redundant combination lock. This is a fairly new lock (early 2017 release) that provides a UL Type 1 electronic lock and group 2M 4-wheel mechanical lock in a single package. It isn’t designed for all types of safes. Because it’s a handed swingbolt, it can only be mounted as a right hand configuration.



I haven’t used this lock as of yet. I’m hoping to show it to a customer in the next 2-3 weeks and I’ll provide some feedback once I have an opportunity to do so.

I recently had one of these installed in a new AMSEC safe I purchased (had to go down in size due to location to be placed ) but still have my larger 6030 in storage. Little does the wife know when we move next time I’ll have two safes.

Anyhow, very pleased with it so far. Only complaint is that the mechanical lock portion is no where near as smooth as previous locks. Which is fine as I only use the dial to get into it periodically (once a week or so) but just something to note. I do love the convenience factor of the electronic lock and the piece of mind that I can still get into it if the electronics take a crap.

quote:

Originally posted by striker1:
NL (LP) “Doomsday” Redundant Dual Lock

I wanted to talk a bit about the NL redundant combination lock. This is a fairly new lock (early 2017 release) that provides a UL Type 1 electronic lock and group 2M 4-wheel mechanical lock in a single package. It isn’t designed for all types of safes. Because it’s a handed swingbolt, it can only be mounted as a right hand configuration.



I haven’t used this lock as of yet. I’m hoping to show it to a customer in the next 2-3 weeks and I’ll provide some feedback once I have an opportunity to do so.

Does right hand mean the hinges are on the right?
How much should one expect to pay for one of these installed??

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by striker1:
NL (LP) “Doomsday” Redundant Dual Lock

I wanted to talk a bit about the NL redundant combination lock. This is a fairly new lock (early 2017 release) that provides a UL Type 1 electronic lock and group 2M 4-wheel mechanical lock in a single package. It isn’t designed for all types of safes. Because it’s a handed swingbolt, it can only be mounted as a right hand configuration.



I haven’t used this lock as of yet. I’m hoping to show it to a customer in the next 2-3 weeks and I’ll provide some feedback once I have an opportunity to do so.

Does right hand mean the hinges are on the right?
How much should one expect to pay for one of these installed??

When the lock is mounted on the safe, the PIVOT BOLT will always pivot counter-clockwise (as seen from the outside), relative to the boltwork. So, if you have a handle type release, the handle might move to the right to pivot the bolt. If you have a wheel type release, it may move clockwise but the pivot action of the lockbolt will still be counterclockwise. You *can* buy a separate adapter that will convert the lock to a left-hand, but it makes the lock assembly about 3" thick and may not fit inside all safes.

Most pivot bolt locks can be flipped over, but this one is right-handed only from the factory.

You can buy this lock for around $100.00 or so and then have a competent safe tech install it, probably for at least another $100 to $150.

Very cool and interesting thread. Maybe it’ll get stickied for everybody that asks “what brand safe should I get”. Thanks you!