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It was no fun, I can attest to that. | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
Awesome!!! | |||
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Drill Here, Drill Now |
Can you share which lender this is with? Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer. | |||
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Member |
Yes, but what they don't tell you is that closing costs are 5% higher (of the entire sale price of the home) over paying cash, which is about a 1% of sales price. And a lot of people don't keep a house longer than 5 years, so the government makes their doc stamps and etc. | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
I can't comment for sasquatch, but here's the website for U.S. Bank (my lender). https://www.usbank.com/home-lo.../mortgage-rates.html | |||
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Happily Retired |
Wow. I can't believe the rates I am seeing in this thread. .....never marry a woman who is mean to your waitress. | |||
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Member |
I just closed yesterday on a 15yr refi @ 2.5%. Zero points, $1400 closing costs including appraisal, title recording, etc. Cut a year off my loan, will save $34k over the balance of the loan, AND walked away with $5k cash out! | |||
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Fighting the good fight |
So? What's that got to do with the ridiculously low interest rates? Realistically, how many people (especialy first time homeowners) can reach into their back pocket and pay cash for a house? Therefore, would you rather pay 5% closing costs with 18% interest for 30 years, or 5% closing costs with 3% interest for 30 years? Besides, my closing costs are nowhere near 5%... They're around 2%. And they're being paid by the seller anyway, in my case. | |||
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Member |
Because a lot of times, someone that's been in a 3.5% mortgage for 4.5 years is better off staying, rather than switching to another 30 year mortgage at 2.5% plus all of the closing costs added in. Putting it out there for the people that keep refinancing every 6-18 months for a better rate, but don't realize what the closing costs are, the extra months of interest they're adding, and think they're moving forward but when you sit down and do the math, actually going backwards. It's real easy to do the math. Multiply the number of existing remaining payments by amount.......then do the same with the new mortgage...... | |||
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Fighting the good fight |
We're talking about two different things. You're talking about refinancing. I'm talking about buying. | |||
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Drill Here, Drill Now |
US Banks' Texas refi rates are higher. Ego is the anesthesia that deadens the pain of stupidity DISCLAIMER: These are the author's own personal views and do not represent the views of the author's employer. | |||
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Member |
Yes, and many others are talking about refinancing. | |||
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Fighting the good fight |
Then you should have quoted one of them instead. | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
I've re-fi'd twice with US Bank using those published rates. Both times they have balked at me saying those are not re-fi rates. I then explain to them that the website says nothing about those rates only being for new customers. I throw out the term "Bait & Switch" and tell that that is the rate that they advertise, and that is the rate I want. On both occasions they have relented and given me the rate posted on that site. Doesn't hurt to ask and press them on it! | |||
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Member |
There is literally nobody that is paying a 5% closing costs that have any reasonable credit score over 700, unless you are buying down points. None of my new home purchases came remotely close to 3% either. For those people refinancing, most banks accept appraisals that are less than 18 months old, and in most instances do not require a survey. In some instances, the closing can be done without a closing attorney for the mortgager. I have done five refinancing in 20 years, and I have never paid more than 1.45%. If you are paying more than 2%, you are doing something wrong, or your amount you are mortgaging is so low that fixed costs would make it untenable. As for the calculation on how to breakeven, there are a number of calculators out there, but for simplicity, you take the previous mortgage payment less the amounts you are having put into escrow as a baseline. You take the new mortgage rate and rebuild your amortization (balance of house plus any refi costs you plan to roll in), and calculate the payment based on the previous unamortized period. Example: You bought a $160,000 house in June 2010 at a rate of 5%. After 10 years, your principal balance is $130,147.30, and you have 20 year left. Current 30 year rates are 3.25% for 30 years, but to calculate the breakeven you base it off the existing duration and add back in any refi costs. Assume they are 1.5%, meaning you would amortize $132,100 (roughly), for 20 years, which gives you $749.26, meaning you save $109.65/ month. I won't go into tax consequences as over 78% of people took standard deductions for TY 2018. If the cost to refi was $1,952.21, you divide it by the $109.65 to get 17.8, or 17.8 months to breakeven. If you plan to move or sell in less than 18 months, it would be a loosing proposition. | |||
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Member |
Here in Florida closing costs run 5-6%, it has ZERO to do with credit, the bulk of those expenses are the States doc stamps (tax) and the lenders and sellers title insurance (which the buyer is required to pay in the 3 largest counties), then you have survey cost, appraisal cost, need a wind mitigation report done. On a cash purchase it runs 1% +/- as there are no Doc stamps or lenders title insurance you need to pay. First off, the first 10 years of any 30 year mortgage your mortgage payment goes to paying almost all of it to the interest and not principle. That is not how you calculate whether or not it's better to refinance. You take the sum of all of the remaining payments of your current mortgage. Then all of the costs and all of the payments of the new mortgage and get a total. Whichever total sum of all payments is cheaper, would determine whether it's better to refinance or not. Refinancing a mortgage with 20 years left, with a 30 year mortgage is almost always going in the wrong direction and you'll never be free and clear of mortgage payments or own the house outright. It's a different story if you have 20 years left and go to a 15 year mortgage or 20 year mortgage, but the majority of people don't do that. Paying an extra payment a year on an existing mortgage also greatly lowers your effective interest rate as the interest on a fixed mortgage is calculated (amortization table) based upon paying all 180 or 360 payments, when you pay more, it undercuts the principle and effectively lowers the effective interest rate and greatly shortens the mortgage. If you've refinanced 5 times in the last 20 years, YOU are doing something wrong. The last property I bought with a mortgage was Dec 2005, I paid the mortgage off 2 years ago. I also bought 2 sizeable properties, one December 2009 and one in November 2013 and paid cash for both of them. It's REALLY easy to get ahead when you're not surrounded with debt you're carrying. Problem is, everyone wants to live the high life, and not sacrifice a little for 5 years to knock all of their debt out, or lower it significantly so all of their income goes to paying debt payments (mortgage, car, credit cards, equity line, etc. etc.). But, we're getting severely off topic here, so that's all I have to say. | |||
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The Unmanned Writer |
And it begins... Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. "If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers The definition of the words we used, carry a meaning of their own... | |||
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Simmons Bank. | |||
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Member |
People can't help themselves and end up pulling money out and often times not knocking any years off their loan because it feels like free money. Do it if you can drop years off your payment, you will be thanking yourself when you send in that last payment. | |||
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