Cool! I'll be following this thread!

Maiden voyage around the back lot this morning, all was going well until I pulled up to the back door she bogged down and died for no apparent reason, we were at a stop and not even in gear. She'd crank but wouldn't start. By the time I pushed her back in the shop, hooked up my starter button she started up again and would start with the key again then too.

Some kind of vapor lock?

I think its something electrical, because later after I got it started and drove it to the stall I was working in, then for no reason it wouldn't start again, only this time it wouldn't do anything when I hit the key ... had plenty of power, test lite came on for the starter circuit when I had someone turn the key but the solenoid didn't click or anything ... some previous owner, I think had accessory lights or something because there are after market switches on the dash, there were wires coming off the ignition switch that didn't go anywhere and there's about 4-5 relays that don't belong on a 62 bug.

The problem was the starter, pulled the one off the green bug, and it hasn't had an issue since ... So now it's time to change more stuff, all the goodies have came in

I'm going to pull the engine again and take the tin to have it sand blasted and repainted

the distributor with electronic ignition


But now that the exhaust is here I'll be putting on this carb kit


This is the exhaust, mufflers can come off when I want to play and put on a stinger


Then there's a few other odds & ends, aluminum billet valve covers, aluminum crank pully(with real degrees marked on it), new "trunk" trim, dash wire cover, rubber floor trim, seat covers and other miscellaneous ... I still need to replace the top, not sure if I can just patch it for now ... I really need to decide on a paint scheme, or if I listen to my daughter, just get a black top it'll stay looking cleaner longer.

quote:

Originally posted by kimberkid:
... some previous owner, I think had accessory lights or something because there are after market switches on the dash, there were wires coming off the ignition switch that didn't go anywhere and there's about 4-5 relays that don't belong on a 62 bug.

Could be worse. When I bought a truck a few months ago, the previous owner kept blowing a 10 amp fuse. They 'fixed' this by promptly replacing it with a 30 amp fuse.
Had to buy a $400 power distribution module before fixing the loose bulb socket.

Your VW distraction looks like fun, and you didn't even need a trafficator.

quote:

Originally posted by Mars_Attacks:
I put myself through college repairing them.

I've built more if those engines than I've had birthdays.

I've spent a bunch of time working on those too and loved every minute of it. Such a simple, straightforward motor.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
Could be worse. When I bought a truck a few months ago, the previous owner kept blowing a 10 amp fuse. They 'fixed' this by promptly replacing it with a 30 amp fuse.
Had to buy a $400 power distribution module before fixing the loose bulb socket.

Your VW distraction looks like fun, and you didn't even need a trafficator.

Well, it got worse ... even as patient as i was being almost gentle with the exhaust manifold bolts, the last one of the 8 twisted off ... so now the head needs to come off and go to the machine shop. If I pull one I'm tempted to pull them both and have all of the studs replaced, but then if it needs guides and/or valves ... i might as well buy new heads ... and if I do that I can get a bigger piston & cylinder kit for just a couple hundred more and have a 1679 engine ... and my new carbs would really benefit from the larger valves in new heads.

The difference is ~200 if I don't need valves & guides to $600 for new heads cylinders& pistons.

Decisions decisions ...

The other day I bought a $200 water pump. The old one wasn't leaking, but it had 137,000 miles on it. It was just as easy to put the new one on instead of the old one as both of them were sitting on the same shelf.

Are your rings in good shape? Can you see a crisp crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore? Are all of the wrist pins the way you'd want them? If it were me, (it isn't) I'd delay the project until I could get it the way you want it to be instead of the way you wished it was. There aren't that many 57 year old heads that will remain trouble free while running on unleaded gas. $600 is a lot of money, but new heads, cylinders, & pistons are a lot of parts. One thing I found out after so many tries, it would be cheaper to do it right instead of doing it again (and again).

There is also the option of selling the old parts that you aren't going to use to help pay for the new ones. There may be someone shopping for vintage heads to restore a mid-sixties VW. I have done this many times from parts from a Glock .45 to a 2018 Ford truck.

After sleeping on it, unless I set some suprise (like these are already bigger than stock 1600 heads, pistons & cylinders) I'm going to order the new parts ... I've got no idea of the condition of the internal parts, and like you said "there's no sense in doing it over and over".

The engine didn't run when I got it, however it turned over by hand. I all I know for sure is the guy that I bought it from said it has been sitting for about 2 years and he wasn't sure how long the previous owner had let it sit. I got it running and drove it around the block a few times and it sounded ok but didn't have much power ...

hberttman pointed out the generator was installed 90 degrees off so last week when I took it out of the 72 I also noticed the ground screw strap was holding the accelerator pump closed. I turned the generator to the correct position and installed it in the 62 and it ran much better but several people have mentioned that the carbs I bought "would work, but really needed a bigger engine, or at least bigger valves"

So, I guess I'll take this as a sign ...

Hey kimberkid, like a lot of us without a lot of bucks you learn the hard way. The best way to get the 8mm exhaust nuts off an old VW motor is to heat them up with a torch first, that way you don't break off the studs. Since you are going to have the heads off anyway,I would highly recommend going thru the motor top to bottom. The basic VW long block is not that sturdy of an item. You have some nice parts to go on it, make sure the lower end will stand up. With the air-cooled VW Bug motor you can get some really good performance but keep in mind this is not what it was designed for. I am not trying to scare you off, just be aware that once you add another 30 to 100 hp things will break further down the drive line. I really wish you the best of luck on this project, and I have been out of the business a long time, but I really wish you the best of luck on a bad-ass Baja Bug. And if you need any input, be aware that I probably built 1k VW air cooled motors.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: hberttmank,

I haven't checked in for a while so;

The torch crossed my ming, but I didn't have one available(I've since gone out and bought one). I took the head to a machine shop and got it back last Friday. On Saturday I installed the head and adjusted the valves ... Just for good measure I pulled the other valve cover, removed the rocker arm assembly replaced those pushrod tubes and seals. While I was there I checked the torq on the right head bolts and both lower outside studs were below spec, then adjusted the valves.

Last Sunday was a complete waste of time.
I was thinking last Sunday "today is the day I'm finally going to get my new carbs on!" BUT ... When I grabbed the manifold and gasket I noticed there was no hole for the steel alignment pin in the head!
At first I thought "no problem, I can cut a hole using the old gasket as a template ... There I noticed there is no hole in the manifold either!

I grabbed some pliers ... No Good
I grabbed some vice-grips ... No Good
I grabbed my propane torch the new one that I wish I'd had when the exhaust stud) ... AGAIN, NO GOOD

I asked on the Samba forum and got a tip from someone on a there to give the pins in the heads a gentle but firm tap to the right then the left.

Skip to today ... The first time I had to work on it; I followed the advice and the first one I pulled out with my fingers, the other side I had to use pliers, but it came right out.

Today I only had a few hours and the instructions to mount the manifolds, carbs, air cleaners crossbar linkage. The instructions were on several pages and weren't well organized ... I'd take two steps forward, then a step back, then re-assemble, two more steps forward, then back ... But at least now I know better for next time!

I got the manifolds on and the carbs mounted along with the cross bar ... I'm not exactly where the coil is supposed to mount, but there is a bracket for it. It's in the instructions to remove it from the fan housing but I can't find anywhere in the text or diagram, where it's supposed to mount; but I'll get it figured out ... Then setup the linkage and fuel lines ... Put on my headers and slide it in ... Cross my fingers and hope it starts!

Very cool! I’ve always been fond of the old VW baja bugs and sand rails.

My first car was a 1972 Super Beetle. It was a darker green, had rusted through the floorboard, and was a really cold ride in the winter. I only got stuck in the snow once, and that was because I tried to bust through a 3 foot snow drift. My fault, not the car. Good luck with your project! I’ll look forward to seeing pictures of it when you get finished.
Sean

It LIVES ... Muahahaha

I had to take the air cleaners off to get enough clearance, one of my pushrod tubes is leaking a bit, the accelerator cable isn't connected (need to mod the connector) ... most concerning is the new generator isn't charging (at least there's a aftermarket light on on the dash that I'm assuming is for the generator, the one in the speedo isn't connected) ... but it sounds great.

I know this is "old hat" to some of you, but for me it's the first time in 30+ years I've done this much work on an engine, moved the engine to a different car etc. it feels pretty good!

I would have liked to finish it up, but it was after 5 , I'd already missed church and the little woman had delayed Valentines plans for us for the evening, and I sure didn't want to screw that up! Unfortunately it'll be Wednesday night before I'll be able to get back to it ...

As has been fairly typical for this project, a complication has come up ... Last week I got the the engine back in, complete with exhaust, however when I went to install my rear bumper/cage it became obvious I could have the mufflers of my choice OR the bumper ... I was telling a friend about it and planning to make the bumper longer ... his response was to raise the exhaust above the bumper!



This isn't the final solution, but it works for now. I was able to take it on its first trip around the block (under its own power) since 2013 ... Still have to get the lights working before I can get a highway title.

First time she's seen the light of day since October ...






I didn't like having the mufflers above the engine cage so I put the stinger on it for now, until I get the cage extended to fit around the mufflers ... The stinger isn't too obnoxious.
I've got original tail lights on the way, I've got the tail, brake and back-up lights working, and going to replace the existing brake/tail lights with Amber lights for turn signals. Some previous owner had replaced the turn signal switch with toggle switches and relays, but step by step I'm getting it straightened out ...

That's coming along nicely. Two thumbs up.

Thanks for posting all this. The rims look like the old Jackman VW stars. I had Jackman "stars" on my 73 Bronco.

Cant wait for more updates!

Cool!

Looks like you've done a lot of work and it coming together nicely.

Would there be enough clearance to tuck the mufflers into the rear fender wells and not have any issues with heat? Then add s few 4" round LED tail lights for a clean look?

I've seen a few mufflers with dual inlets and tips a while back, strapping the license plate to a single horizontal muffler a possibility...

Guess I'm one of those fellas that can't leave anything the way it came.