The one I was talking about is the gage being discussed in this thread.

http://www.300blktalk.com/foru...1&t=81348&hilit=gage

It's made by a guy on the site.

He sells them direct and they are also sold here as well http://www.bradswarehouse.com/....php?p=1_2_Buy-Brass

Just wondered if that was the one you use.

Awesome, thank you Stormin for sharing. With 300 AAC ammo scarce, I too am converting brass and working up loads. I will be using a 16" upper and starting with 150 gr Hornady FMJ that are relatively cheap. I will try and post some info when the weather turns and can get out and test.

-Prudence

Thanks! I find this very interesting and appreciate the write up.

quote:

Originally posted by sandman76:
The one I was talking about is the gage being discussed in this thread.

http://www.300blktalk.com/foru...1&t=81348&hilit=gage

It's made by a guy on the site.

He sells them direct and they are also sold here as well http://www.bradswarehouse.com/....php?p=1_2_Buy-Brass

Just wondered if that was the one you use.

I like my Wilson case gage but I am going to look further into this gage you referenced.

quote:

Originally posted by Prudence:
Awesome, thank you Stormin for sharing. With 300 AAC ammo scarce, I too am converting brass and working up loads. I will be using a 16" upper and starting with 150 gr Hornady FMJ that are relatively cheap. I will try and post some info when the weather turns and can get out and test.

-Prudence

300 BLK ammo used to be pretty easy to get, especially the least expensive Remington 115gr but it has completely disappeared. It seems 300 BLK and .22LR are the ones that are the hardest to find now.

What are you using to cut down your cases and to trim them to length?

This is how I've been doing it. About a $70 investment.

http://www.300blktalk.com/foru...it=brass+cutting+jig

quote:

Originally posted by Bigbuck5:
What are you using to cut down your cases and to trim them to length?

I use a Harbor Freight chop saw to just cut the neck off the 5.56 brass and then I deburr and chamfer the case. I then lube the case and neck and resize it in the sizing die. I then trim to length using the World's Finest Little Crow Gunworks case trimmer which works great. I then deburr and chamfer the case again.

I have the Little Crow Gunworks Case Trimmer in a drill press instead of a hand drill. That way I just raise the case into the case trimmer and it trims it.

quote:

Originally posted by StorminNormin:

quote:

Originally posted by Bigbuck5:
What are you using to cut down your cases and to trim them to length?

I use a Harbor Freight chop saw to just cut the neck off the 5.56 brass and then I deburr and chamfer the case. I then lube the case and neck and resize it in the sizing die. I then trim to length using the World's Finest Little Crow Gunworks case trimmer which works great. I then deburr and chamfer the case again.

I have the Little Crow Gunworks Case Trimmer in a drill press instead of a hand drill. That way I just raise the case into the case trimmer and it trims it.

I hope you tumble again after you trim.

Every time I hear someone say they put the WFT in a drill press, I cringe. Because the case is vertical, it will allow brass shavings to fall into the case if trimmed in this fashion. I, for one, do not want to be firing brass shavings down the barrel of any of my rifles.

quote:

Originally posted by StorminNormin:

quote:

Originally posted by AndyM1911:

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
Very cool. How do you make the cases from 5.56 without splitting the neck?

A picture is worth 1000 words.

That is a great pic; I am going to steal it!

Are you using a full length sizing die to get the final neck down, or just a neck sizing die?

quote:

Originally posted by exx1976:

quote:

Originally posted by StorminNormin:

quote:

Originally posted by Bigbuck5:
What are you using to cut down your cases and to trim them to length?

I use a Harbor Freight chop saw to just cut the neck off the 5.56 brass and then I deburr and chamfer the case. I then lube the case and neck and resize it in the sizing die. I then trim to length using the World's Finest Little Crow Gunworks case trimmer which works great. I then deburr and chamfer the case again.

I have the Little Crow Gunworks Case Trimmer in a drill press instead of a hand drill. That way I just raise the case into the case trimmer and it trims it.

I hope you tumble again after you trim.

Every time I hear someone say they put the WFT in a drill press, I cringe. Because the case is vertical, it will allow brass shavings to fall into the case if trimmed in this fashion. I, for one, do not want to be firing brass shavings down the barrel of any of my rifles.

I should have put in that step, but yes I tumble after trimming to remove lube and other stuff. I then place cases into a media separator to try and get everything out of the cases. Also, after trimming in the WFT, I use a chamfer and deburing tool in which the case is placed vertically upside down and a lot of shavings fall out during that step before it then gets put into a tumbler.

quote:

Originally posted by Rightwire:

quote:

Originally posted by StorminNormin:

quote:

Originally posted by AndyM1911:

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
Very cool. How do you make the cases from 5.56 without splitting the neck?

A picture is worth 1000 words.

That is a great pic; I am going to steal it!

Are you using a full length sizing die to get the final neck down, or just a neck sizing die?

For me, I use a Redding AAC 300 BLK 2 Die set and the sizing die is a full length die.

OK, so I FINALLY have found some reloading data for the Sierra 125gr HPBT for the 300 BLK. It looks like I was proceeding right on track; I still have more testing and working up to do especially since now I received my chrono.

Here is the reloading data I found for this Sierra 125gr. round in 300 BLK.

Below is a comment I received from a post I made on this forum about this round:

I went out to the Sierra factory to day to pick up some factory seconds and talked to one of the ballistics techs while I was there. They had a copy of the new 300 blackout data to go into the new book, but would not release a copy yet, but did write some down for me.
Here is what I got

Sierra 125 gr match king #2121
OAL 2.210"
H4227 16.2-18.7gr
most accurate load at 18.7gr
LilGun 15.7-17.2gr
most accurate load at 17.2gr

LINK

Thanks for explaining your process. I'm interested in trying this myself. Do you have a link or a model number for your chopsaw?

quote:

Originally posted by Bigbuck5:
Thanks for explaining your process. I'm interested in trying this myself. Do you have a link or a model number for your chopsaw?

Honestly any chop saw will do the trick. I think the one I have might not be sold in stores anymore but here is a link to the PDF document on it.

There are a million videos on YouTube on converting 5.56 brass to 300 BLK but I think I may take a stab at making one as many do not do the video that great or go into all of the steps from my perspective as a new loader. Now that I have gotten good at converting brass I may make a video and will post it if I do.

Thanks, I'll look into the chop saw.

Today I went to the range to test another work up of this round and I think this is the sweet spot and the load I will use for this bullet.

Noveske 300BLK
Pistol length gas system
10", 1:7
MagPul PMAG, 30RD
125 gr Sierra OTM
Hodgdon Lil'Gun 17.2gr
LC 5.56, reformed to 300BLK
CCI 400 Small Rifle
2.210" OAL
1/2 turn light crimp Lee FCD
No Chrono yet
Zero Issues on any of the loads. All feed, fire, and eject fine.
Bolt held open on last round.
I fired 10 rounds suppressed and 10 rounds unsuppressed
My suppressor is the AAC 762-SDN-6

I noticed that I wrote the wrong cartridge OAL on the target; the correct OAL is 2.210"

You are getting there,congratulations .

quote:

Originally posted by 45 Cal:
You are getting there,congratulations .

Yeah now I just need a 3X magnifier for my Eotech so I can be more accurate and also try these rounds out to 100 yards. Right now I am shooting these at 50 yards with no magnification.

I worked up some loads of a Nosler 125gr Ballistic Tip that is good for hunting and think I found my recipe.

Now that I have at least one recipe, now I can put the Dillon RL550 to work as a progressive press and start pumping out some reloads.

I am about to embark on starting to reload .300BLK. I procured brass and primers this week, and am about to buy a batch of SMK 220gr HPBT bullets.

From all the poking around I did, everything I read was suggesting magnum primers (7.5 Remington or 450 CCI) but I notice you are using the standard small rifle primer.

Have you tried the magnum and gone back to standard or just always loaded standard?

I would be interested to learn more about the loading setup you have for this as well.

Im loading pistol only using Dillon Square Deal's in 9mm and .45 so not foreign to some of the concepts. These will however be the first rifle rounds I have ever attempted to load.