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Sigforum K9 handler |
It's not going to hurt a bit. It's funny that Larry Vickers is a huge Glock fan. He was one of the driving forces that got them into SFOD-D. He has a video where he takes a submerged Glock out of an oil bucket, slings it dry a couple of times to get the oil out the barrel, loads it up and starts shooting. No issues or stoppages. Glock factory training fondles the "perfect". But, Glock's don't stop the laws of physics, heat transfer, and lube. | |||
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Member |
I’ve used Sta-Lube Super White grease with a Q-tip in the 10oz. tube on my autoloaders for years and the frame rails all look great. I use CLP on everything else. ——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1 | |||
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Road Dog |
I have used Eexoz for years on the slide of my P220 and now my P228 to prevent surface rust. Works great! I now use Lucas Extreme gun oil, too. | |||
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Member |
The topic of lubrication of firearms seems to infest all of the gun forums, and yet, the rules are pretty simple: 1. All firearms benefit from lubricant, for both ease of operation, longevity of operation, and ease of cleaning. 2. The old rule is "If it slides, use grease. If it rotates, use oil." 3. Use less lubricant in cold climates, as it will thicken and can affect reliability. 4. The TYPE/BRAND of lubricant you is NOT nearly as important as using a lubricant. Volumes have been written about how this brand or that brand is the best, but in actuality, the lubrication requirements of a firearm are FAR less stringent that say, an internal combustion engine. For this reason, any appropriate grade os motor oil and automotive grease will do the job just fine. If you want to spend money on fancier stuff, go right ahead, but if you shoot/clean a lot like I do, that fancy stuff won't make your gun any cleaner, or last any longer, than more modest stuff. | |||
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Sigforum K9 handler |
Nice post, Jeff! | |||
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Member |
There was a test floating around some years ago showing the effectiveness of long term protection against corrosion. If I recall, break free CLP did very very well, only eclipsed by frog lube. That said, frog lube shouldn’t be used for long term storage, it dries out and gums up easily...found out the hard way and broke an extractor. For long term (not cosmoloine long term) my choice would be BF CLP. -Freq | |||
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Member |
I've had super good results with Superlube brand grease on rails. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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Member |
Metal on metal does not need grease, oil works just fine. Metal slide on an anodized aluminum SIG frame does need grease. I use a Q-tip to apply grease (dunk it in the grease, spin it around the side of the grease container or something flat to get the excess off and then apply it. You don't need a whole lot of it. I use Breakfree CLP on most of my firearms, it does a great job at lubing and keeping corrosion off. But use grease when it's required. | |||
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Truth Wins |
I like Super Lube grease, too. It has a few desirable qualities: 1) it's got good qualities. Its spec sheet is available on its website. 2) it's clear. If a little bit eeps out of the gun and stains your clothes it will leave an oil stain, but at least it's clear. If you use a red grease, that stain will look like a blood spot. 3) the viscosity doesn't change with time. It will be the same consistency a year after you put it on as it was the day you put it on. 4) it's cheap and you can buy it just about anywhere. TW25B is really good, too, if expensive. It's white and goes on a bit watery, but the carrier it's in dries a bit and it leaves behind a greasier grease then what it was when it went on. I also have a bunch of Frog Lube left from years ago. It's really good for smearing under my lawn mower to keep wet grass from sticking, and keeping the hinges and latches on my privacy fences lubed. I don't let it near my guns, though. _____________ "I enter a swamp as a sacred place—a sanctum sanctorum. There is the strength—the marrow of Nature." - Henry David Thoreau | |||
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Member |
After messing around with Q tips, syringes, etc, I discovered pipe cleaners work best for applying grease to rails on handguns. I just get a little dab of grease on my finger from my jar of Slip EWG and smear it on about 3" length of the pipe cleaner, then rub it back & forth in the rail grooves. It leaves a nice thin coating, with hardly any waste or mess. I've used this method on 1911s, Sigs & Glocks for years. You can buy a huge bag of them at Walmart in the craft section for a couple bucks. ------------------------------------------------ "It's hard to imagine a more stupid or dangerous way of making decisions, than by putting those decisions in the hands of people who pay no price for being wrong." Thomas Sowell | |||
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Member |
Whatever works for your gun is best. Guns that see a trip to the range once a week are not the same as competition guns that shoot thousands of rounds a month or Duty guns that sit in holsters. Like Jerry, I try to take down my Duty guns every other week and relube, check function and wipe down. I have always used grease on my Sig rails. | |||
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Objectively Reasonable |
I've been using the same "office" tube of Militec grease on Glocks, SIGs, and Remington 870s for the past few years. A little goes a long way. | |||
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Member |
Memorize this and repeat often to yourself often! -------------------------------- On the inside looking out, but not to the west, it's the PRK and its minions! | |||
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teacher of history |
I use RIG on the Sig rails and apply it sparingly with a toothpick. | |||
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Member |
Speaking of Lube... I have to say that my father while in the Marines once had to remove all the lube from his weapon as did everyone... broke down and washed everything in gasoline to get all the oil off to run them dry.... what you say? How can that be: Chosin Reservoir ... Nov. - Dec. 1950 at -30 below.... My Native American Name: "Runs with Scissors" | |||
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Member |
Some interesting information here on gun oil and grease. Just remember, a *little* bit of this grease goes a long way and lasts a long time. https://www.cherrybalmz.com/ed...yourself-the-science https://www.cherrybalmz.com/hi...-gun-lubricants-cfze https://www.cherrybalmz.com/faqThis message has been edited. Last edited by: Biggy, | |||
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Member |
I have been using G96 CLP for a few years with great results. I'm not going to claim that it is a Wonderlube, but it cleans and lubricates quite well and does not appear to evaporate or gum up over time. | |||
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Road Dog |
So I pulled my night stand P220 out of my drawer safe. The rails looked like they needed regreasing. I have a container of standard slide glide and used a small acid brush. I cut the bristles down as recommended. It worked great. How do you guys store your small brushes until the next time? I got a small piece of Saran Wrap and covered the bristles. I know now it’ll attract dirt/dust with being saturated with the slide glide. I did wipe some excess off before I wrapped it. | |||
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Member |
TW25 comes in a syringe. easiest way to use it, to lube underside of rails and such and to get into small areas. Have been using it for years. Great stuff. P220,P220Euro, P220 SAO, P245 SIG-AR-Glock-M&P,870 Armorer NRA Life Member | |||
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Member |
Okay, I have a question on specifically a gun that you clean and store away... say loaded for the off chance it might need to be used.... and it will sit unfired for a couple of years but you want it to work if a bad thing happens? What's the best way to lube a gun like this? My Native American Name: "Runs with Scissors" | |||
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