Good deal! I had a slightly holster-worn 1994 model that I already paid too much for, so I thought I'd give it a shot.
It's a thick, tough finish...so just beware...it will change your parts tolerances. But they guarantee it for life against chipping. We'll see, but I won't be the tester.
Scaled to 33% of the OP's photo and hit with just a touch >< of unsharp mask to sharpen it up a bit:
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ensigmatic: Scaled to 33% of the OP's photo and hit with just a touch >< of unsharp mask to sharpen it up a bit:
Thank you!
T2's definitely not for every application. They had to fit the barrel back into the slide in order to make it go into battery, which kinda surprised me. I thought it might wear in, but that barrel wasn't even TRYING to go into battery until they fit it.
Lesson learned...send the whole gun in so they can make sure everything fits.
I like T2 for the purpose I chose it, but it has limits.
Originally posted by ShoreGuy: My P228 was sent back to Sig for NP3 on the slide (ages ago) and that’s what it looks like. And the barrel looks like my Robar P229.
I like NP3+ for this particular application, but it's more matte than the original and not as slick. I'd probably just go with the original formula for small parts jobs like trigger groups and bolts. Anything larger like a barrel, frame, or slide....I'd choose the more matte NP3+...YMMV.
And then there are many, many other quality options out there. This was just a Robar discussion.This message has been edited. Last edited by: ether,
