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| Member |
I'll lend my expert opinion - I believe we need to see more pictures. : ) | |||
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Hop head  |
only one pic at the link? is there a star after the serial number or an & on the frame when you open the crane? can you pull the grips if there is and see if there is a date stamped on frame under the grip? https://chandlersfirearms.com/chesterfield-armament/ | |||
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| Ermagherd, 10 Mirrimerter!  |
I did pull the grips Marked N and a smaller E4, no date or asterisk anywhere If it still there I’ll take some not pics, we’re $100 apart right now I should probably go ahead and buy it for $1000 I quit school in elementary because of recess.......too many games --Riff Raff-- | |||
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| Ermagherd, 10 Mirrimerter! |
     I quit school in elementary because of recess.......too many games --Riff Raff-- | |||
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Member |
I think that N means it was re-nickeled by S&W, which would account for its terrific condition. I had an old .32 Hand Ejector they did for me back in the ‘70s and I seem to recall that’s how they marked it. FWIW, that lanyard hole leads me to think this gun was originally blue. ***** Today, my jurisdiction ends here… | |||
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| Ermagherd, 10 Mirrimerter! |
My guess is factory refinish in nickel also Maybe it was far enough back they didn’t do the * mark? The roll marks are good , perfect really No snags or dishing on the screws It was a great job if someone else did it I offered 950, a good shooter with lots of finish issues will bring 750-800 around here anyway I quit school in elementary because of recess.......too many games --Riff Raff-- | |||
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| Member |
Only you can decide what you will pay for it. But I do not think you see those revolvers very often. Why don't you check and see what they go for on the big auction site? You may not find another one very easily and wish you had bought that one. | |||
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| Member |
I would hazard a guess that the finish is original. I see no softening of edges, roll marks are crisp, and the side plate fits perfectly. If the gun was originally blue you would still see a "B" on the grip frame and not just an "N". If they refinished it you would also find a star next to the serial number. The gun looks original to my eyes. If the grips are original to the gun you should be able to find the serial number written in pencil inside the right grip panel. It may be very faint so a flashlight helps. Jerry | |||
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| Ermagherd, 10 Mirrimerter! |
I’ve seen serialized grips on later guns, but this is WW1 vintage I did take grips off and saw no numbers Does anyone know if Smith always stamped refinishes? Or if not when they started ? Grips fit well, but screw seems short Definitely period correct grips Just the screw seems off If the don’t sell it for a while, I’ll probably end up with it Doesn’t really fit my normal “colleting” interests, but is a nice piece I quit school in elementary because of recess.......too many games --Riff Raff-- | |||
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| Member |
I don’t recall B or N for original finish, only for factory reworks. I also don’t recall a star next to the serial number, but this was many years ago so I could easily be mistaken. One thing I do remember is that .32 they did for me looked totally original, and I think they charged all of $30 to do it. ***** Today, my jurisdiction ends here… | |||
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| Non-Miscreant |
Those thinking its all original, please explain the nickel ejector rod to me.  Unhappy ammo seeker | |||
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| Member |
You might be better off asking about the hammer and trigger... https://www.gunsinternational....cfm?gun_id=101258015 ***** Today, my jurisdiction ends here… | |||
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| Member |
Is the extractor star nickel or blue? 1 side plate screw looks to be a replacement - the flat one. They were used under magna grips which came later. Some of the WWI era guns have the SN on the grips written in pencil - look carefully to see if anything is left. Grips may or may not be original. So far, I'm of the opinion it was refinished in nickel at some point - and VERY WELL DONE. Original finish was probably chemically stripped.This message has been edited. Last edited by: clang, | |||
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| Member |
Good call on that screw! ***** Today, my jurisdiction ends here… | |||
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| Lost, but making good time |
It’s been refinished, but not by S&W. As rburg pointed out, the ejector rod, hammer, and trigger are finished in nickel. S&W never nickeled those parts. My guess is that it originally shipped as a nickel gun, but was refinished by someone at a later time. The “N” stamp on the frame is why I think the gun originally shipped as a nickel gun. As a side note, rburg has probably forgotten more about older S&W’s that most so called S&W experts know. When he “speaks” S&W, listen. You’ll learn something  Bye for a while, guard the fort. - My Dad | |||
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| Member |
I don’t think the hammer and trigger are nickel plated, I think the case coloring is worn off. It could just be the pictures though… | |||
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| Peace through superior firepower  |
I beg to differ. My factory nickel 357 Magnum from 1950. The hammer and trigger are cased but the ejector rod is plated.  | |||
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| Member |
That's why I shared this link; can't get much more original than an unfired S&W owned by Roy Jinks. Note the nickled ejector rod. https://www.gunsinternational....cfm?gun_id=101258015 ***** Today, my jurisdiction ends here… | |||
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| Member |
In looking carefully into the fouling cup, is it just me, or does it appear that there is a line running the width of the topstrap, within the fouling cup? I am wondering if I am seeing a hairline crack, a scratch, an actual hair, or if it is just my eyes. Anyone else see what I am noticing? I'd check with a thin amount of oil or something to see if a drop on one side will run down and into that line, or just over it. Sigs and Non-Sigs: I enjoy having options! | |||
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| Member |
S&W blued the extractor star on nickel guns. | |||
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