I'm not really a revolver guy, but been kinda wanting one lately. So, I have been keeping my eye out for a nice, used, no-lock 586. Well, I didn't find one of those. Randomly stopped by the LGS today, and they had a 4" 686 priced at $479. I picked it up, and it seemed in generally good shape. It has a scratch or two, but not bad at all, cosmetically. Seven round chamber, hogue grips. It seemed like such a good deal, I couldn't pass it up, so I bought it.

To be honest, since I'm not a wheelgun guy, I don't really know how to inspect these, or frankly know too much about them. What should I be looking for to inspect it? Is there a reason it was so cheap, or did I land as good of a deal as I think I did?

Classic, at that price I woulda bought two!

Very nice. 357 is one round I don’t have stock of, or the components to reload so I have recently been avoiding it during my revolver purchasing phase. Been leaning towards. 10/40 and 44 mostly with some 38 and 22 mixed in.

Holy cow, yeah that was cheap! I'd have broke my arm going for my wallet if I saw that.

I'm sure somebody with more knowledge will be along shortly, but I always do the following:


1. Check for any damage or obvious cracks in the forcing cone or frame.

2. Check the carryup by dragging my thumb against the cylinder while pulling the trigger. If it locks up on every chamber, that's a good thing.

3. Do the same for SA by manually cocking the hammer.

4. Make sure the crane is straight and locks up flush with the frame, and that there's no significant front to back shake in the cylinder when it's closed. You can also measure this and cylinder gap with a feeler gauge.

5. Dry fire my way around the whole cylinder and check for hitches or hang-ups in the trigger pull.

6. Make sure that the side plate screws aren't buggered, which would be evidence of bubba monkeying around inside. Yours look just fine from what I can see in the pics.

Making sure it’s unloaded, up end it and put a flashlight against the back of the cylinder window(where the shells will flush waiting to be fired). Looking down the barrel to the firing pin hole, As you thumb the hammer back you can see the cylinder align with the bore. Check each cylinder to make sure it doesn’t override the bore-if it does you will get lead being peeled off the bullet as it jumps to the forcing cone/barrel. The issue is usually with the hand-the part that rotates the cylinder and it can be replaced to get the gun back in time.

Great buy I haven't seen any pre lock 686 for under $800 in a long time.

Nice, the 7 round is a 686 Plus.
That is a GREAT price for that revolver.

I have 2 Talo 3" 686+ revolvers.
Well, I have one left after giving my SIL one of them.



I sent them both to S&W for their Master Revolver Action Package, which cleaned up the trigger.
If that is something that may interest you.
Also had the trigger and hammer replaced with hard chrome on the one I kept with the Culina grips.

PERFORMANCE CENTER® PRECISION GUNSMITHING

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1lowlife,

Nice find.

I found this video useful.

https://youtu.be/95xjizDOrcc?si=__PukseNU_XGWRkS

I hate you. I’ve even wanting one.

quote:

Originally posted by Woof:
Great buy I haven't seen any pre lock 686 for under $800 in a long time.

The OP's 686 Plus appears to have "the Lock" and is most likely a 686 Dash Six with Lock & MIM Hammer & Trigger & the Frame-mounted Firing Pin...

For that kind of money, you did really well. I agree with what the others have said about timing and lock up. I also do the "hammer push off" in which you cock the hammer and push against the rear of the hammer, to make sure it doesn't release without pulling the trigger.

Welcome to the party pal!

Found this 686 no dash several years ago in the used gun case, back when you could go into the LGS and find good used guns, today they send them all to GunBroker and sell online.

Can't blame them from a financial standpoint, and access to nationwide customers.

Outstanding deal on that. I have the same one. It’s a great shooter. I bought for a “woods” gun even though I don’t live close to any woods and can’t imagine finding myself in the woods for any reason. The L frame carries well and seven rounds of .357 on tap is enough to put a four legged critter down if need be.

Very good deal. Are there any proof marks or the name of an importer marked discretely (hidden) - I ask because I have never seen barrel markings like those on your gun. Laser etched in a large font with both the "Smith & Wesson" and the caliber on the same side of the gun.

I have seen export guns with laser etching but in cursive font, not like yours.

What engineering change is this gun (the dash number. i.e.686-4).

You did real good - now enjoy the hell out of it.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Great price on an excellent revolver choice! I had a 3" Model 686 Plus (seven round), but sold it after I finally located a 686-CS (Customs version with a bead blasted finish). IMHO, everyone that has an appreciation of classic .357 revolvers owes themself a S&W L-frame .38/.357. They handle the heavy .357 loads well and .38 Special rounds are very soft shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by pulicords:
I finally located a 686-CS (Customs version with a bead blasted finish). IMHO, everyone that has an appreciation of classic .357 revolvers owes themself a S&W L-frame .38/.357. They handle the heavy .357 loads well and .38 Special rounds are very soft shooting.

I have to agree, mine pairs well with my last remining Python.

I shoot my 686 in IDPA competition so it isn't a pretty as the ones your seeing here. My Python is pretty beat up too as it was my first duty gun and I shot it in PPC for a number of years.

That 686-CS is beautiful and I'm keeping an eye out for one

quote:

Originally posted by pulicords:
Great price on an excellent revolver choice! I had a 3" Model 686 Plus (seven round), but sold it after I finally located a 686-CS (Customs version with a bead blasted finish). IMHO, everyone that has an appreciation of classic .357 revolvers owes themself a S&W L-frame .38/.357. They handle the heavy .357 loads well and .38 Special rounds are very soft shooting.

That is beautiful.
I had a bead blasted Model 625 JM like that.
Sold it before I ever shot it...

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
Welcome to the party pal!

Found this 686 no dash several years ago in the used gun case, back when you could go into the LGS and find good used guns, today they send them all to GunBroker and sell online.

Can't blame them from a financial standpoint, and access to nationwide customers.

Does yours have the recall marking?

The S&W 357 is classic.

Nice score!

Such a capable round.

Cheers~