quote:

Originally posted by jljones:

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
Having an assembly in a Glock that I'm supposed to leave alone bothers me.

I think Glock is heading more and more that way. In a recent armorers course, we did take apart and reassemble the Gen5 trigger housing and trigger return spring. But, we were told that in the field we really shouldn’t mess with it, or try to repair it. There was also no need to ever attempt to disassemble. We should simply purchase and replace the trigger housing, which would come with the return spring installed.

I disassembled and reassembled the one in my G45; definitely not like Glocks of old. I guess simplicity just isn't cutting it like it once did if Glock is needing to stay competitive. Sad.

"Sad"?

That is what you get out of this? There's not one single thing that's sad about this product or Glock's introduction of it.

Glock is to be commended for introducing the GPT.

I'm not talking about the GPT. I'm discussing the Gen5 trigger group.

What difficulty did you have disassembling a stock gen5 trigger?

Disassembly I suppose wasn't the real problem, but the darn slide stop coil spring was a surprise and it did take me a few tries to get it back into correct position in reassembling the gun. Not like the old pre-Gen5 slide stop. The price paid for ambi I guess.

Stuck the + connector in, wheeler says 5.5#.
Definitely a more defined wall then the break. I'm going to stick the regular unmarked connector one in my duty gun. That was 5# with a decent wall then break. I'll keep the + in my off duty 45 to play with for now.

Yeah, I just tried the plus connector in my gen5 and it's got a bit too much wall for me and a bit too heavy. I didn't realize that Glock is putting the dot connector (5 pounds) in the GPT. I thought they were using the standard connector (5.5 pounds).

So, since the dot connector feels too light and has too little of a wall, and the plus connector (8 pounds) is a bit too firm for me, I installed a standard connector.

I haven't yet started playing with the GPT in my G19 so all of this may be different in that pistol (this is one of the things about Glocks- their triggers are like snowflakes- no two are exactly alike. That's the truth). I might end up with a plus connector in the G19. The only way to know is to try it. But, in my G17, the standard connector seems just about right. This is a pure stock part out of my spares, no polishing has been done to it, and I think I'll leave it just like that. I don't want to do anything to lighten it further, because it's right there on the edge of what I need.

All of this aside, the proof will be in the shooting. The messed-up part of all this is that if I'm going to try out different connectors in a pistol while shooting it, I'm going to have to break down the frame while on the range. I don't relish the idea of doing this with the GPT.

First world problems

The good news is with all this trying out of different connectors in the GPT, I've got the reinstalling of the trigger bar down pat.

Also, I guess I need to invest in a trigger pull gauge after all.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
The good news is with all this trying out of different connectors in the GPT, I've got the reinstalling of the trigger bar down pat.

Yep, I had to reinstall again. I'm getting good at just levering things around without using a punch. I'm going to try a few mags with the + connector tonight. If I don't like it, I will dig out another standard connector from one of my gen3 guns.

I finally got around to installing the GPT in my gen5 G19 which has given me fits trying to track down the source of bumpiness/roughness in the trigger pull. I've polished all associated trigger parts including the safety plunger, made sure I didn't have a kinked safety plunger spring, polished the tang of the striker, replaced the striker spring- Hell, I even replaced the channel liner. Nothing worked. Certainly, there is something I missed, but I can't find it.

It doesn't matter now because today I yanked the guts out of it and installed a GPT with a JG Vex shoe and I replaced the dot connector with a standard connector. Probem solved.

I'm going to leave the connector unpolished because the trigger pull is right where I need it. Any lighter and it might be a problem.

Based upon my experience with the GPT so far in two pistols, I would say that you might be OK with dropping it into your Glock unmodified, but to get the pull to suit your tastes, a bit of tweaking is in order; specifically, your choice of connector and trigger shoe.

If you don't like flat triggers, you might consider installing the Johnny Glock Modified OEM trigger shoe, a bargain at 22 bucks. I'll have to do some shooting with the Vex trigger and see how I do with it. I may very well end up with these modified OEM shoes instead of flat triggers. This remains to be seen.

What we have found is the trigger bar rubs against the ambi slide stop. If you take a Gen5 pistol that has several rounds through it, hold it in a manner that you can watch the slide stop on the right side, the slide stop actually rises and falls as you engage and let off the trigger.

I’ve messed with several “fixes” such as putting “never seize” type lubricants between the contact areas, polishing the area with a polishing compound, but the simplest thing I have found is when I clean it, I’ll add a drop of lube to it and it seems to prolong having problems.

Another thing I am curious to is if it’s the type of lube that is causing the problems we see, or at least if the type of lube is causing the problem faster. Lucas seems to paste up when the gun gets hot and I am wondering if that is part of the problem.

quote:

Originally posted by jljones:
What we have found is the trigger bar rubs against the ambi slide stop.

Well, there ya go- as I said, there was obviously something I had missed and that may very well have been it. Given the nature of the GPT, though- that the striker is not moving rearward during the trigger pull (which means movement of the trigger bar only during the break), it may be that rubbing slide stops have almost no effect on the trigger pull when using the GPT.

And even though I can't tell the pull weight of my gen5 G17 and G19 because I don't have a gauge, what I can tell you is that the trigger pulls of these two pistols are now virtually identical. If it weren't for the weight/balance differences between these two pistols, I would be unable to tell one from the other if blindfolded, and that makes me very happy.

In terms of lubrication , I use SLIP2000 products- a mixture of EWL30 and EWG, and it stays put as long as anything else might. I use this same mixture on the bolt carriers of my ARs and I can lube the rails on a carrier and come back to it months later, and the rails still glisten with lube.

The GPT comes from Glock with Loctite C5-A on the trigger bar/connector interface. This is, of course, the same copper-embedded stuff Glock puts on their pistols.

As an interesting note, did you know that C5-A has an expiration date? I bought a tube of the stuff years ago and left it unopened. I opened it the other day, and the stuff came out black. If I smeared a dab of it, then I could see the copper particles embedded in the grease, but the grease itself had turned jet black. I looked on the bottom of the tube and it has an expiration date. Mine expired in 2015.

Installed a GPT in a 17.5 recently. Left the dot connector in. Very smooth take up, break and return. The trigger shoe sucks however. Took it off and installed an Overwatch Precision Poly Flat trigger.
That called for about an hour of On The Job Training on getting the trigger return spring seated back on the bar. Expect the next time to go much faster.
If after a few hundred rounds the feel remains the same or close I'm going to stick with the dot connector. If not a 5.5 then a + if needed.

Very happy with it as is (except for the standard shoe).

quote:

Originally posted by D_Steve:
That called for about an hour of On The Job Training on getting the trigger return spring seated back on the bar. Expect the next time to go much faster.

I bought this pick set a while back:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod..._image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Initially, I tried the 90 degree pick to re-seat the spring but I have found that the straight pick works much better. These picks are about 7 inches long and a smaller version would be better for this purpose because I'm holding the pick only about an inch or so above the point when seating the spring.

Whichever tool you use, it needs to have a fine point on it so that you can put the point of the tool in the cup which captures the ledge of the trigger bar.

I've done this enough times that I've gotten good at it, but not infrequently, the spring assembly does not want to move at all when you try to push it backwards. Apparently it's getting hung in some way but I can't determine how. Just make sure that the trigger bar ledge is above the spring when you stick the ledge in the hole and that if you encounter any resistance, don't force it; just start over.

I prefer the 5.5 unmarked connector over the dot connector. Replaced the + connector today. Not to brag, but I've gotten so good at this I don't even need to reset anything. I can keep it hooked up to swap out connectors with no issues. lol

1. Lever it off at an angle


2. Pop out old connector (wear glasses since it flies out)


3. Pop in new connector


4. Lever it back on and reinstall into gun


As soon as my duty frame gets back from TXPO, it'll get installed, a bunch of mags ran for function check, then back on duty.

Excellent

One thing, though- it appears that in order to use this technique, the spring cup is being twisted a bit by the trigger bar ledge. I've never bother to check it, but is the other end of that part secured? It seems like the spring cup is always correctly oriented, so if it's secured at the other end, are you twisting this part each time you use this technique?

I guess I could pull out one of my GPTs and check it myself. Is the spring cup/retainer/guide/whatever a plastic part? It appears to be so, and if so, I would be concerned about breaking it.

It's not an obtainable part (at least for now) without buying an entire GPT, so if it broke, it might be costly.

(quote)
Is the spring
cup/retainer/guide/whatever a plastic part? It appears to be so, and if so, I would be concerned about breaking it.
/(quote)
Yes,

Pic is of the front of a gen 5 control showing the trigger spring attachment point. The only thing in common with the GPT is this attachment point method. This attachment point on the GPT is in the rear underneath the sear.
And yes I did manage to turn that 90 degrees and it came out, Went back in with some words and tweezers. I finally used a 5/64th roll pin punch to compress spring and install on bar.

Well it didn't take a complete hour, but it sure felt like forever having that "what did i do now moments"
All is well now.

Thanks for posting the pics and links.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: D_Steve,

quote:

Originally posted by D_Steve:
And yes I did manage to turn that 90 degrees and it came out, Went back in with some words and tweezers. I finally used a 5/64th roll pin bunch to compress spring and install on bar.

That is a useful bit of information.

Glock: The Glock Performance Trigger must be installed by a certified Glock Armorer

Us: Uh, no

Glock: Glock does not recommend any aftermarket modifications to the GLOCK Performance Trigger.

Us: Too late

Glock: Please do not attempt to disassemble the Glock Performance Trigger

Us: We haven't taken it all the way apart, but we're getting there

I thought about any damage as I was doing it but I figured I’m not doing it every day. I stuck it in my gen5 19 and just put 100 rds through it with no issue.

It’s hooked on the top end. The first time I did the connector change it came off the trigger bar so I kept swinging it up and down until I got it hooked. I really need to buy a set of picks.
I have one dental pick for magazine release spring work.

Looks like this trigger has become a big hit. It's now out of stock everywhere (even the place charging 25 dollars over retail.) Glock is going to make a lot of money on this part, which, when you get right own to it, costs them little to make, because it's bits of stamped metal and injection molded plastic.

Is Glock paying a licensing fee or percentage of every trigger sold to Timney for using their design?