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Queen q-tac and boker trapper I believe | |||
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A. Wright & Son Limited Sheffield England Chocolate Buffalo Horn Carbon Steel Barlow Engraved back spring, coin edge/knarled brass liner edges 3 5/8" closed | |||
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Hold Fast |
****************************************************************************** Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet . . . | |||
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I like that alot, can I start the bid at 50 bucks? | |||
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My dog crosses the line |
Hobbs, you are killin' me! That is a beautiful knife. How old do you think it is? | |||
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http://www.penknives-and-sciss...d_pocket_knives.html | |||
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Thank you Jeff !!! It's brand new. The pattern is old though. Barlow knifes have been made since the mid 1800's at least, and they were said to have gotten their start by Cutlers in Sheffield England. DSgrouse ... if you started at 50, you would be but 25 less than what I paid for it I found it here ... http://www.cppkc.com/item/fold...-file-w/lid=24560816 ^^^ If you do a search on that site for "Barlow" you will find a lighter colored Water Buffalo Horn one as well ... and I think it's a little cheaper too. | |||
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Did you find it online, us retailer, or order from uk? It is used now, shouldn't that account for the difference? | |||
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I edited my last post while you were posting I guess LoL. See the link in my last post Yep, it's used now HA !!! ... but still unsharpened. Not very sharp out of the box. OH, and it didn't come with an "A. Wright & Son" box or paperwork. It came wrapped in tissue paper in a Catonsville box, still with no paperwork. | |||
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Ah I see it now | |||
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I think they are bulk shipped to Catonsville. I bet you'd pay a lot more one at a time out of England. ... I have to email them now to find out why no A. Wright & Son paperwork came with it though. | |||
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My guess is that they buy it by the lot, 100 bulk pack at a time. According to the site I posted it is c70 steel, which is an Italian steel. Many makers use it, boker among others. My guess is that a.wright sells bulks off as kind of a private label like queen. I have found 20* to be a great primary bevel on my boker with a 23.5* micro bevel to be execelent. I picked up a gec diamond back scout. I like the looks alot. I am uploading cell pictures now. I hate living in the boonies. | |||
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I emailed them and am awaiting a reply. But you and I suspect the same thing ... bulk buy and resell. On my Lansky, I have only a choice of 30, 25, 20, 17. Most of my knives I use 25 and will on this Barlow. Slicers and other relatively thin blades, I use 20 ... Opinel, K55K and maybe a couple of others. Usually I consider the blade thickness, blade grind and factory bevel ... then go from there. | |||
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That Scout is Beautiful !!! Is that what they call "Indian Paint" bone color? Is it a liner locker? ... regardless, I bet it's a bear trap. | |||
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Diamond Red bone scout. It is not your typical slip joint knife. The lock up is two 90 degree angles. I am not usually please with my factory edges or bevels. Most often I end up reprofiling the edges to some degree. I am not super hard on my knives so many of them get a 20 or even 17° primary bevel. Most will also get a micro bevel a few degrees steeper. The k55 opinels I run flat v grins at 17° with great results. Both can handle the thin edge well enough for my needs. The huberus lock back is an 18.5° if I remember correctly. The factory edge was 20-21° on the logo side and 30 ish on the back side. I reprofiled and smooth it out to an even 18.5 each side. Nice and sharp now. | |||
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DSgrouse ... I'm officially suspicious of not only this Barlow knife, but Catonsville Pocket & Pen Knife Co. I can't for the life of me get a good edge on this Barlow and I've been honing my sharpening skills for over 50 years of knife ownership. I can get it "sharp" enough to barely cut paper and that's it. I knew going in that C70 was a low grade carbon steel, but this stuff acts like souvenir grade steel. I've never worked with C70 before so don't have anything to compare this Barlow to. I got out a magnifying glass to see if I could find "China" anywhere on it LoL. SOooo ... I started checking around on Catonsville Pocket & Pen Knife Co. Their website contact info lists an address and phone number. I looked at the address on google maps and found a liquor store and some kind of property office. The phone number turns up for other unrelated ventures but not for Catonsville Pocket & Pen Knife Co. The other ventures are in the "Simmonds" name and a "Mary Simmonds" was listed in emails concerning my order with them. They have not replied to my email concerning no box or paperwork accompanying the knife from A. Wright & Son. I'm seeing a bunch of red flags. I think I'll try and contact A. Wright & Son in Sheffield England and see if they can verify they even made the knife. | |||
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It's Friday the 13th ... I'm totin' some Douk-Douk mojo | |||
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How is the douk compared to the k55? Mine today, Dan wesson pm9, 1935 esterbrook, boker oak barrel, and last night's scout As for your a.wright. don't give up hope yet I have a few ideas of what could be happening. First. Are your stones dished? Even diamond plates can become dished. If one or more is dished it will round the edge over on you. This may not happen on harder steels like 1095 or d2. It is something g you might see on c70. Take your stones an place them face to face. Move them in front of a light. If you can see light through the center they are dished. If they are stone you can flatten them on a diamond finishin g plate. Just make sure both sides are equal thickness. If they are diamond. Time to replace . The next thing is an over stressed edge. Often this is caused at the factory when putting g the bevel on. They grins new edge on creating a super flexile burr. That burr hangs on through out the sharpening process and keeps you from achieving a good edge. DE stressing the factory edge eliminates this. Take your med grit stone and run it at 90° to the edge. 2-3 times. Then your fine grit and do it 4-5 times. Enough to dull that edge flat and even. Re por file edge and most often it will be as sharp as you need. This next can be a combo of the stressed edge. I have a queen where they over heated the edge when grinding. I personally think it killed the temper. If the above does not solve the edge. Issue then de-stress it significantly, Re thin then Re profile the edge. | |||
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Thanks for giving me some things to think about. I checked everything in the Lansky set up and it's good. Since posting last, I've sharpened other carbon steel blades just fine. If it's a mistake I'm making with this Barlow, I'm doing it over and over. I'm going to just put this knife down for now and come back to it later. | |||
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