Go ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | |
| Just because something is legal to do doesn't mean it is the smart thing to do. |
When lubing a choke do you just put choke lube on the threads or do you put a little on the the entire choke body? Integrity is doing the right thing, even when nobody is looking. | ||
|
| Peace through superior firepower |
Just the threads, and you don't have to put it on the threads closest to the muzzle, because the mating threads on the barrel will have plenty as you screw in the choke. It's not like the stuff is expensive, but the tendency is to overdo it a bit. | |||
|
| Member |
The purpose is to make it easier to remove it for cleaning after long strings of skeet or trap runs with a hot barrel, particularly in the hots sun and summer temps. As Para said you really don't need that much, and less is often better, because you have less of a mess when removing the tube, and because less lube will help prevent your tube from backing out during long strings of shooting that generate repeated cooling and heating cycles. I notice that the more expensive the shotgun the less likely tubes start backing out, you just don't see guys shooting clays with expensive target guns having to tighten their choke tubes. You certainly don't want it beyond the threads. As things heat up that shit cooks and creates a huge mess inside, and may screw with the heat transfer. You want the barrel and choke tube to manage heat more consistent with the rest of the barrel. Little bit on the threads, if you actually need it, is helpful. IF you never take the choke tube out of the barrel and never run longs strings of shots in any clays games, you could probably have a better excuse to lube the whole thing. I've seen guys unable to remove choke tubes because they left the in too long. Think waterfowlers to treat their guns like oars, literally. This is the only time I think you could stuff your choke tube with excess lube. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
|
| Member |
I think a biggie is to take them out once in a while, relube & reinstall. If left in place forever, dry, tight, there’s the potential to get stuck. Of course with an extended tube it’s easy to take out. I’m not big on ‘specialty lube’ but nothing against it. Most any lube will work. | |||
|
| Peace through superior firepower |
I use Birchwood Casey Choke Tube Lube. | |||
|
| If you see me running try to keep up |
I agree. I put regular gun lube on mine. I fired about 200 rounds through it and it was easy to remove. I clean mine after every use so I have never had an issue removing it. | |||
|
| Common sense is genius dressed in its working clothes |
Slicker Than Owl Shit. STOS. Great lube for anything. _______________________ “There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life.” ― Frank Zappa | |||
|
| Member |
I spray some clp down the barrel, run a bore snake through with the choke installed, and again with the choke out. Then I wipe the outside of the choke with a small amount of lube. I’ve never had a stuck choke, even after hundreds of nasty promo loads. No one's life, liberty or property is safe while the legislature is in session.- Mark Twain | |||
|
| Member |
This. The brand is pretty good across the board for anything they sell. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
|
| I have not yet begun to procrastinate |
I had one once. Tetra gun grease turned a choke tube into a nightmare. That shit went into the trash and never again will I use ANYTHING made by that company. I’ve been quite happy with Wilson gun grease. Stays in place, plays well with Breakfree CLP. (MSDS shows it’s rebranded Lucas or Chevron but the colors are different) -------- After the game, the King and the pawn go into the same box. | |||
|
Firearms Enthusiast![]() |
I just use anti-seize. Been using it on heavy equipment all my life and have never had an issue using it on choke tubes either. Just have to go light on it and clean up real good after installing the tube. | |||
|
| Member |
I shoot skeet. A lot of skeet. I use anti-seize and have for years. I use a q-tip to apply. Pick up a little from the brush and touch the q-tip to the start of the choke threads such that it will spread as you tighten the choke. Anti-seize has the side benefit of keeping the chokes tight. I clean my gun regularly including removing the chokes and never had a stuck choke. Auto Zone has a one ounce tube of Permatex for $6, I bought the 8 oz bottle years ago and expect to pass it on in my will. Let me help you out. Which way did you come in? | |||
|
| Back, and to the left ![]() |
This thread has motivated me to pull out the A-5 and clean and lube the choke tube amongst other things. Do you think the grade of anti seize makes any difference? I ask cause I only got the gold stuff. | |||
|
| Member |
Like any lube, there can be various levels of quality. Just like a vehicle lug nut, how tight does put the tube in, no need to reef it. I think it makes sense to take them out periodically also. Even with a flush mount tube, if they release by a few threads it should be noticeable. With an extended tube, easy to check once in a while. I don’t think I’ve ever had one stuck. | |||
|
| I have not yet begun to procrastinate |
I don’t think it makes any difference. The copper colored stuff is what Glock uses. I’ve never used the Permatex, only the Loctite. It hasn’t failed to do its job. Whether nickel, copper, etc. it all works. -------- After the game, the King and the pawn go into the same box. | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
| Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|

