quote:

Originally posted by ElToro:
this is nothing short of amazing. If EPSN or Sports illustrated don't give him athlete of the year and give it to a basketball player or something then you know the system is crooked.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/

check out this documentary on netflix " Valley Uprising" about the history of climbing in Yosemite starting just a few decades ago.

An excellent point.

It is an amazing acheivement.

I don't know how he's able to climb like that with BRASS BALLS that big.

quote:

Originally posted by ElToro:
this is nothing short of amazing. If EPSN or Sports illustrated don't give him athlete of the year and give it to a basketball player or something then you know the system is crooked.

There have been lots of amazing climbs over the years. Recently I would rate Caldwell and Jorgeson's free accent of the Dawn Wall back in 2015 right up there. That and Jimmy, Conrad and Renan's climb up the Sharks Fins a few years ago although that was part apline climbing and a entire different beast. Many of the worlds best had attempted the Sharks Fins and failed. Heck they failed the first time.

quote:

Originally posted by comet24:

quote:

Originally posted by ElToro:
this is nothing short of amazing. If EPSN or Sports illustrated don't give him athlete of the year and give it to a basketball player or something then you know the system is crooked.

There have been lots of amazing climbs over the years. Recently I would rate Caldwell and Jorgeson's free accent of the Dawn Wall back in 2015 right up there. That and Jimmy, Conrad and Renan's climb up the Sharks Fins a few years ago although that was part apline climbing and a entire different beast. Many of the worlds best had attempted the Sharks Fins and failed. Heck they failed the first time.

That's because it's one of the few big walls at 20,000 feet.

To me, the real story is Renan Ozturk's incredible recovery. Five months after an open skull fracture and broken neck and he was back scaling a 2,000 foot wall on a 20,000 foot peak, and doing so without supplemental oxygen. His spirit is one I could really use.

quote:

Originally posted by Sig2340:

quote:

Originally posted by comet24:

quote:

Originally posted by ElToro:
this is nothing short of amazing. If EPSN or Sports illustrated don't give him athlete of the year and give it to a basketball player or something then you know the system is crooked.

There have been lots of amazing climbs over the years. Recently I would rate Caldwell and Jorgeson's free accent of the Dawn Wall back in 2015 right up there. That and Jimmy, Conrad and Renan's climb up the Sharks Fins a few years ago although that was part apline climbing and a entire different beast. Many of the worlds best had attempted the Sharks Fins and failed. Heck they failed the first time.

That's because it's one of the few big walls at 20,000 feet.

To me, the real story is Renan Ozturk's incredible recovery. Five months after an open skull fracture and broken neck and he was back scaling a 2,000 foot wall on a 20,000 foot peak, and doing so without supplemental oxygen. His spirit is one I could really use.

Agreed. Kinda insane and what a amazing recovery all together. Renan certainly has that never quit mentality that few can even imagine. I have to wonder if Jimmy felt responsible for the accident and that helped him push for bring Renan back for second attempt.

Some things just don't need to be done. What he did is amazing, but it's going to inspire people to try things that end up costing their lives.

quote:

Originally posted by Ackks:
Some things just don't need to be done. What he did is amazing, but it's going to inspire people to try things that end up costing their lives.

Free Solo climbing has been going on in relative earnest since at least the 70s (the earliest known one I've read about was in 1913), and so far *maybe* 100 people have tried it in any real sense, and the known death toll so far is about a dozen people in about 100yrs.

The overwhelming majority of climbers, and the public, have a healthy sense of "fuck that" - even amongst those like me who follow and have an appreciation for what they do.

quote:

Originally posted by 46and2:

quote:

Originally posted by Ackks:
Some things just don't need to be done. What he did is amazing, but it's going to inspire people to try things that end up costing their lives.

Free Solo climbing has been going on in relative earnest since at least the 70s (the earliest known one I've read about was in 1913), and so far *maybe* 100 people have tried it in any real sense, and the known death toll so far is about a dozen people in about 100yrs.

The overwhelming majority of climbers, and the public, have a healthy sense of "fuck that" - even amongst those like me who follow and have an appreciation for what they do.

Heh, yeah. Nobody is going to start rock climbing w/o pro. Nobody who is new to rock climbing with pro (knowing how hard it is and how many times they have fallen) would be eager to do it without.

You have to literally bet your life you can make the climb without any errors. 100%, not 99% and if the error is out of your control, rain etc. oh well.....splat!

I'm not talking about new climbers, but people in a similar class who want to go out and get their names in the press like him. Athletes are competitive and with the media attention this is getting I just wouldn't be surprised if someone tries to top this somehow.

One or two, I suppose, Ackks, hell - maybe even 10 in the coming years, if I had to guess.

In my 25yrs of climbing, Sport and Bouldering - which are by far the most popular forms, I doubt even 20% of all climbers I've ever met even have much interest in even being a casual observer and follower of Free Solo climbers. It's just not a regular part of the culture, rarely lauded by dude-bros or spoken about at campfires more than the occasional mention - and overwhelmingly the reactions are distanced, cautioned, and full of "nope".

These guys are respected by most in the community, but mostly for all of the other climbing they've done and their accomplishments in those arenas because it resonates with far more climbers. Most of the climbers I know and have ever met are Safety Geeks of moderate to very high orders, and I'd bet that even these Free Solo guys were exceptionally careful with most of their climbs before thoughtfully considering the deed. Very, very few, IMO, meet the typical idea of adrenaline junkies like portrayed on TV/etc.

Another thing to keep in mind, is that most climbers will never even climb something like El Cap - with or without gear. There was a time, years ago, when it was a goal of mine but I realized it wasn't going to happen without the sort of lifestyle change that meant giving up my career and moving somewhere that I could climb all the damn time to train.

Unlike Everest or the like where it's more like extreme hiking / mountaineering at extreme altitude with Sherpas to help carry your shit, getting up big slabby sheer rock faces like El Cap is another thing entirely. Hell, most climbers will never even climb a multi-pitch (multiple rope lengths) route in the first place. It requires a trusted partner, or trad gear, or both, or aid devices like mechanical Ascenders, and so much more experience than most will ever acquire.

Most climbers could spend a lifetime climbing nothing but the routes in any single Western US state and most will never even get up all of those routes. I've been to some spots in Arizona more than a couple of hundred times/days over the years and there are whole sections I just walk past and most of the time never see anyone doing it either.

It's hard, really fucking hard, once you get into the 5.11+ range.

The difficulty itself weeds out most (80-90% I bet).

quote:

Originally posted by 46and2:
Another thing to keep in mind, is that most climbers will never even climb something like El Cap - with or without gear. There was a time, years ago, when it was a goal of mine but I realized it wasn't going to happen without the sort of lifestyle change that meant giving up my career and moving somewhere that I could climb all the damn time to train.

Unlike Everest or the like where it's more like extreme hiking / mountaineering at extreme altitude with Sherpas to help carry your shit, getting up big slabby sheer rock faces like El Cap is another thing entirely. Hell, most climbers will never even climb a multi-pitch (multiple rope lengths) route in the first place. It requires a trusted partner, or trad gear, or both, or aid devices like mechanical Ascenders, and so much more experience than most will ever acquire.

Most climbers could spend a lifetime climbing nothing but the routes in any single Western US state and most will never even get up all of those routes. I've been to some spots in Arizona more than a couple of hundred times/days over the years and there are whole sections I just walk past and most of the time never see anyone doing it either.

It's hard, really fucking hard, once you get into the 5.11+ range.

The difficulty itself weeds out most (80-90% I bet).

Very true. El Cap is a beast in itself. I've done a little climbing. Wish I had gotten into it in my younger years. I've done multi pitch but nothing even close like El Cap stuff. I think my forearms would fall apart after the second pitch. I don't even think I could climb a single pitch 5.11 now. OK I know I couldn't. There is something special about being 100+ feet up tied into an anchor belaying a lead. Just hanging there that far up a face is something special. I fell safe climbing with protection. Take the protection away and I'm gone.

quote:

Originally posted by 46and2:

quote:

Originally posted by Ackks:
Some things just don't need to be done. What he did is amazing, but it's going to inspire people to try things that end up costing their lives.

Free Solo climbing has been going on in relative earnest since at least the 70s (the earliest known one I've read about was in 1913), and so far *maybe* 100 people have tried it in any real sense, and the known death toll so far is about a dozen people in about 100yrs.

The overwhelming majority of climbers, and the public, have a healthy sense of "fuck that" - even amongst those like me who follow and have an appreciation for what they do.

Those old enough probably remember George Willig climbing the then new World Trade Center. He later wound up on ABC's Wide World of Sports free climbing a mountain.

Cool.

I've fallen plenty, always safely caught by the gear, but once while leading a little 5.8, maybe a whopping 50ft up (of maybe an 80ft single pitch sport route) I slipped off this pinkie finger thin ledge while reaching to clip into the next bolt which was at nose level, fell twice the distance to the last bolt (about 20ft total), got flung into the wall once the slack was taken up - like a fierce and super fast pendulum, fractured an ankle on impact, had to hike out down a steep rocky slope a mile or so while carrying my shit.

And I'd been climbing several years when it happened. All in maybe 1sec.

It's no joke, even at moderate difficulties. 50+ ft is almost as dangerous as 500. I do know one guy who survived hitting the deck from 80ft but that's pretty rare. My butt puckers at most anything above 40/50ft. Interactive Problem Solving at its best, I think. I love it, particularly the simplicity mixed with difficultly, just you, gravity, sticky shoes, and chalk.

I think it's worth reviving this thread to mention that the NatGeo film documenting Honnold's climb premieres in limited release today.



'Free Solo' screening schedule

quote:

Originally posted by 46and2:

quote:

Originally posted by CPD SIG:
I got $20 says he doesn't make it long without rope / safety gear.

Folks like him and Dean Potter have been doing similar climbs for years without incident.

Potter died BASE jumping, after many years of climbing, a lot of which was free soloing, speed climbing, etc.

These guys are the best in the world, long bored with regular climbing, so they push the envelopes. I wouldn't do it myself, but see nothing wrong with their choices.

ymmv

I agree it is their choice, but his life expectancy is low, just as it was for Todd Skinner. Todd cheated death many times, but the odds eventually caught up with him. I think these guys know that, but they choose to do what they love, living life to the fullest, and I don't blame them.



.

I got into climbing in college in the late 70s (in Ohio of all places - Clifton Gorge State Park), after the "Valley Uprising" pioneer days, but before it became mass-popular like it is today, with artificial climbing walls in every REI and outdoor fair. (Heck, REI wasn't even a "thing" then, with no stores outside of Washington state.)

I lived to climb, and even worked as a mountain guide in Colorado during college summers. One of the best jobs of my life. I climbed in Yosemite as well, even doing a two-pitch route at the base of El Cap (Moby Dick), one of the worst off-width cracks I've ever done. (I discovered the usefulness of the newly-invented "Friends" protection on that climb!) Even so, I was leading at a 5.9 level, and following or toproping at 5.11, which was pretty good back in the day. Longest climb I ever did was Royal Arches in Yosemite, rated 5.7 A0 (short section of aid), 15 pitches and 2000 feet. I've climbed all over - Eldorado Canyon, Boulder Canyon, Seneca Rocks, the Gunks, Devil's Tower, the Valley, and lots more.

I did free solo a handful of climbs, but nothing harder than 5.6 It doesn't push your physical level, but it sure does focus you.

Having just turned 60 twenty days ago, I doubt I could drag myself up a 5.7 toprope any more, although I do stay active hiking, mountain biking, and I just did a technical canyon in the Robbers Roost area of Utah (think 127 Hours, the top part of Ralston's route before he lost his arm).

For those unfamiliar with climbing, the rating system is called the Yosemite Decimal System. The first number ("5" in my examples above) refers to the class - 1 would be walking across a gym floor, where 5 requires ropes and technical gear. Class 6 (or "A") would be aid climbing, where you use the gear you put into the rock to help you climb, not just catch you if you fall. 5th class was broken down further from 5.0 to 5.9. At the time, they didn't think anything could be harder than 5.9. We're up to 5.14 now.

I miss climbing, but it got me into the outdoors, where I've kept active my entire life, and to which I credit my general good health and activity level today.

quote:

Originally posted by Sig2340:
Alex is the Beast.

After the first 35 feet the only difference between El Cap and the route that nearly did me in is how long you fall.

Except that you have dozens or hundreds of more chances to screw it up.

quote:

Originally posted by TigerDore:

quote:

Originally posted by 46and2:

quote:

Originally posted by CPD SIG:
I got $20 says he doesn't make it long without rope / safety gear.

Folks like him and Dean Potter have been doing similar climbs for years without incident.

Potter died BASE jumping, after many years of climbing, a lot of which was free soloing, speed climbing, etc.

These guys are the best in the world, long bored with regular climbing, so they push the envelopes. I wouldn't do it myself, but see nothing wrong with their choices.

ymmv

I agree it is their choice, but his life expectancy is low, just as it was for Todd Skinner. Todd cheated death many times, but the odds eventually caught up with him. I think these guys know that, but they choose to do what they love, living life to the fullest, and I don't blame them.



.

Doubt it.
Honnold is a a different character than Potter, Skinner and even Dan Osman. Much more reserved and understands the game. Those previously mentioned guys you can classify as junkies to gravity, their personalities had much more ups and downs; BASE jumping, high lining, wing-suiting, rope jumping they did it all; mix-in excessive alcohol and drug usage and you have the recipe to a short life. It's a stereotype that non-climbers find easy to identify and think that all climbers must be like this.

Climbers usually come in two varieties, the aforementioned junkies to gravity, they love to get up to high perches, the other are the more studious and calculated types: Honnold, Alex Lowe, Lynn Hill. Accomplished climbers who are serious about their craft will eventually translate those skills into alpine climbing, some thrive like Lowe, Greg Child, Conrad Anker, others don't like the cold and hardship, and stick to warmer more accessible environs, like Chris Sharma.

quote:

Originally posted by corsair:

Doubt it.
Honnold is a a different character than Potter, Skinner and even Dan Osman....

You've made two different points. One, you've stated that Todd Skinner was into excessive alcohol usage and/or drug usage. I sort of knew Todd Skinner, but not that well, however I was completely unaware of substance abuse. In other words, was this an ongoing issue through 2006, or something he may have conquered much earlier in life? He was a husband/dad when he died. Are you sure about this?

Second, you've said that Honnold, and the like, are more calculated. I will agree that Skinner's death was more due to carelessness of equipment maintenance and sadly mundane in relation to his normal endeavors, but odds are that humans who live on the edge are going tempt fate one time too many, because they are humans. I believe that to think otherwise is self-deluding, but I think most of these guys know they are pushing the envelope with their lives, and they accept it.