My bride is wanting to freshen up some rooms with new paint and baseboards and door trim. I’ve sone base before using the low end contractor grade MDF stuff and that grade of product fits our house fine. It’ll be painted, not stained, of course.

Further, she wants the simple rectangular base, no curvy tops or cut outs.

Given that, I’m really considering just purchasing 3/4” MDF sheets from Home Depot and cutting my own. I could use it as an excuse to buy a track saw!

I know MDF isn’t ideal for potentially wet areas... I would use something different in the bathrooms. The only real concern I have is the fact that sheets of mdf is only available in 8’ lengths, so there would be more seams that need to be dealt with.

I’m wondering if I create a little jig that would allow me to join two strips together to with somevwoood glue would help hide the seams? I’m thinking pre-glued seams plus proper pruning and painting would give good results while saving a bunch of cash.

What are the problems and complications I’m not seeing?

Do you have a router table? You could dado/rabbet the ends and then glue them into an essentially continuous piece the length of the room.

I have (had) exactly what you're talking about doing in my house. It was a disaster. Even in dry areas, past carpet cleaning had caused it to swell and blister.

We replaced the dry areas with real wood, and wet areas with PVC. Looks exactly the same, and none of the problems.

quote:

Originally posted by MNSIG:
Do you have a router table? You could dado/rabbet the ends and then glue them into an essentially continuous piece the length of the room.

A router is not currently in my garage but I’ve considered buying one several times. Maybe this is the time.

Don't do but joints,use angles like 33 or 45.
Easy to hide seam
You will also catch hell trying to nail it.
This is the poorest choice to use.

quote:

Originally posted by a1abdj:
I have (had) exactly what you're talking about doing in my house. It was a disaster. Even in dry areas, past carpet cleaning had caused it to swell and blister.

We replaced the dry areas with real wood, and wet areas with PVC. Looks exactly the same, and none of the problems.

Hadn’t considered the issue of wet carpet cleaning... that would certainly be a moisture source. Though in 10 years we’ve only done it once. Only have carpet in lightly trafficked areas. Heavy usevareas are bamboo, vinyl, or tile.

Do you think if the mdf was primed and painted on all sides it would have worked out better?

I've done that in the past and came up with results like aiabdj. Carpeted areas tend to retain moisture and humidity also tends to add to the mix. You're contemplating putting that MDX at the area of highest moisture.

quote:

Originally posted by 45 Cal:
Don't do but joints,use angles like 33 or 45.
Easy to hide seam
You will also catch hell trying to nail it.
This is the poorest choice to use.

I assumed I’d use a pneumatic nailer. My 18v nailer has worked well in mdf in the past.

Aren’t they making some kind of dimensional lumber now in a kind of plastic, already white? Think it is for outside trim. 3/4” thick? That would seem to be perfect for baseboards that you have in mind.

Might come wider than 4”, so you might need a new tablesaw for the job

quote:

Originally posted by Chris42:
Aren’t they making some kind of dimensional lumber now in a kind of plastic, already white? Think it is for outside trim. 3/4” thick? That would seem to be perfect for baseboards that you have in mind.

Might come wider than 4”, so you might need a new tablesaw for the job

Got a table saw already... I’ve seen the synthetic deckboard so I wouldn’t be surprised to find dimensional white material of the same type.... don’t think it would be any cheaper than real wood options.

I’ve got to say I’m a little surprised to see all the reservations regarding Mdf as a material choice... in my area it is exceedingly common to find in living areas (as opposed to bathrooms/kitchens). Maybe because we have low relative humidity?

but joint will swell with that stuff and you will always see the seems, doesn't matter what fancy joint you use. go buy some the are pre done and primed in longer lengths any door and molding supplier will have it.

Real baseboard is so cheap, especially if it's the primed stuff (it's primed because it has flaws that were fixed), that I wouldn't even consider MDF which is absolutely not what you want. If someone is a little too aggressive mopping the floor, the MDF will screw up. I see 4" baseboard advertised several places around here for $0.69'

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Real baseboard is so cheap, especially if it's the primed stuff (it's primed because it has flaws that were fixed), that I wouldn't even consider MDF which is absolutely not what you want. If someone is a little too aggressive mopping the floor, the MDF will screw up. I see 4" baseboard advertised several places around here for $0.69'

This is what I’m not getting... that stuff IS mdf. When I walk into Home Depot abd check out the millwork section most of the product IS primed MDF board with smaller selections of primed pine board and stain grade hardwood. Finally, there is a little bit of pvc type stuff like quarter round.

Is it just my area where that is common?

For instance, this is what I’m talking about. This sort of product is extremely common here.

Propack Sierra 9/16 in. x 5-1/4 in. x 12 ft. MDF Base Moulding (6-Pack)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202071603

So what I’m considering is just buying sheets of the same material as the “real baseboard”, cutting it into strips that are 6” wide, and priming and painting. The big concern I had was how visible would the joints be.

Do not use MDF for trim. Just don't.

Go to your local lumber yard and ask what they stock in "primed finger jointed." They should have flat stock and some basic moulding profiles.

MDF is a hard no.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:I’ve got to say I’m a little surprised to see all the reservations regarding Mdf as a material choice... in my area it is exceedingly common to find in living areas (as opposed to bathrooms/kitchens). Maybe because we have low relative humidity?

It's common because it's cheap and very easy to work with. That's about it.

When you cut the MDF the edge my not turn out well, it may look flaky. If that happens try sealing it with glue to get a smooth edge.
You may want to invest in in masks and a good vacuum. It's going to get dusty.

The price difference between pine and MDF is so little, that I wouldn't consider it. If you buy the 10 pack at lowes of pine, the Primed Pine baseboard finger jointed is much cheaper than MDF by the board....It's HOW you buy it.

3.25"x12' pine , 10 pack $88.80. $8.88 a 12' board. $0.74 cents a linear foot. Individual boards are $14.16 for pine, and $11.88 for MDF.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EverT...-Moulding/1000442981

quote:

Originally posted by arcwelder76:
Do not use MDF for trim. Just don't.

Go to your local lumber yard and ask what they stock in "primed finger jointed." They should have flat stock and some basic moulding profiles.

MDF is a hard no.

^^^Yep. Saved me some typing. MDF has its place, but baseboards isn't a good use of the product IMO.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Real baseboard is so cheap, especially if it's the primed stuff (it's primed because it has flaws that were fixed), that I wouldn't even consider MDF which is absolutely not what you want. If someone is a little too aggressive mopping the floor, the MDF will screw up. I see 4" baseboard advertised several places around here for $0.69'

We would never even consider MDF as trim work!

Unless things have gotten a lot better since the last time we used MDF, it would never pass my building inspector (wife)!

MDF is not for baseboard.

local mill will have some inexpensive real wood boards for you..and it's usually cheaper than Lowes

also, butt joints will show with any type of trim. use a mitersaw and cut the joints at 45 or 33 degrees, there are usually stops in the machine that are repeatable...