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I think the only thing I ever consider MDF for is speaker cabinets. As side the moisture problems. MDF paints like shit. You can half way prep them if you want. With some watered down wood glue. It'll drink it up and stabilize the surface for painting. But I'm with the others. Way easier ways to do what you need. Train how you intend to Fight Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat. | |||
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It's not you, it's me. ![]() |
that's good stuff. just used it to board and batten our stairwell | |||
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Member![]() |
Really? Square cut MDF for baseboard? Because it's cheap? How cheap is cheap enough? I mean, you're gonna cut, prime, install, paint. What's your labor worth? Use a material that will last and you can be proud of. I have bought and cut truckloads of MDF, LDF and HDF; plain, coated, laminated, etc. 4x8 and 5x12. Baseboards ain't what it's for. Buy some 1x6 S4S good quality (clear) pine or such. Call some local cabinet shops. My son buys import pine already treated for use as cabinet toe kicks and nailers. Beautiful stuff. Butt the ends of running trim at 15 degrees, industry standard. | |||
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As Extraordinary as Everyone Else ![]() |
This We are trimming up a $900k home done in the Craftsman style and are using primed 1x4 for the casing and 1x6 for base. It is looking amazing. The 1x material will cost more than most trim because it’s actually thicker but provides a more dramatic look. ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
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Member |
Primed finger jointed 16' lengths of whatever profile you want is cheap. If the box stores by you don't have it, look for local millwork suppliers to area builders. The custom fab shops won't always carry it, but there's plenty of millwork suppliers that will. Don't monkey with MDF, you'll regret it. | |||
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Member![]() |
Same tune here as most others... 3/4 Wood...Linear Board feet. LBF clear pine or primed finger joint..Best choice you'll ever make. What you'll loose in time dealing with the MDF, you'll be way out ahead with wood. Keep a scribe and block plane handy too. | |||
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quarter MOA visionary![]() |
I wouldn't use MDF either mostly because of the workability and density of it. Just not ideal. | |||
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Member![]() |
Only the face of MDF is really paintable. All cut edges will soak up paint like you can't believe. You'll have to seal edges, sand, seal, paint, sand, paint, paint, and then paint. I love MDF, but would never use it for baseboard. Pre-primed paint grade trim is dirt cheap. Cut to length, miter/cope, caulk, paint done. _________________________ You do NOT have the right to never be offended. | |||
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Optimistic Cynic![]() |
router =/= router table, you need the latter to do precision work. There are router tables that are intended to accept a standard hand-held router. If you're buying a tool solely for your specific purpose, you might consider a jointer instead. | |||
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If you see me running try to keep up ![]() |
I got some real wood baseboards at my local McCoys for about what the cheap, pre-painted baseboard (non wood) cost at HD and Lowe’s. I’d shop around and find something better than MDF. | |||
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chickenshit![]() |
MDF is not for baseboards. No, just no. ____________________________ Yes, Para does appreciate humor. | |||
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Team Apathy |
I had an older jointer but never used it and let it go. Just took up too much space. A router and table would potentially be easier to store abd likely get more use... though I can probably borrow one as well. I just realize that maybe you mean a bisquit jointer? I’ve not used one but just watched a video... that send like it might be a viable option. | |||
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Member |
Thumper, if your home is the typical CA modern tract home, it has MDF everywhere. If you can't find or afford pine etc and have to go with MDF, try looking for HD Supply (it's a subsidiary of White Cap). They have 20' sections of MDF in a variety of styles and a fraction of the cost of Home Depot. It'd be worth the drive up to Stockton. I used MDF in my house and it's holding up well. It's not ideal, but it works well in the dry areas. It's in my laundry room too. P229 | |||
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Team Apathy |
It is, and there is. It’s a fact, and we’ve had zero issues with it, frankly. I know it’s not the best solution but we do what we can with what we have.
I see there is one in Stockton. I’ve never heard of it. Their website isn’t super helpful but I’ll take a drive up there and check them out. 20’ anything will require arranging a trailer, but that’s doable. Are you saying they have 20’ sheets, or 20’ strips? | |||
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Member![]() |
Forget ripping 4x8 sheets of MDF. That crap is heavy. Hard to paint sawed edges. If you decide to use MDF stick to the primed stuff. | |||
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Team Apathy |
I’ve done it before back in my speaker building stage.... used to rip 1” sheets. BUT, then I had access to a cabinet saw that had a 10’ outfeee table, 6’ to the right of the blade, and 4 feet to the left. It was great. Now, I have a Rigid on a portable stand. I think I can borrow a tracksaw if it comes to that. If the project happens I’ll go buy one if the precut quarter sheets first and do some testing. | |||
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What are you really saving????? To go through all of that work, just use the right product and do the project right. | |||
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Member |
Various baseboard in 20' in length. If I recall, it was about half the cost of Home Depot for the very same MDF trim. I thought Home Depot was $1.75/ft and HD Supply was around $0.75-1.00. Yes, their website sucks. They cater to contractors. If you're doing several hundred feet, it's worth the hassle. P229 | |||
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Team Apathy |
More to it than saving... I enjoy the work and my daughter enjoys doing it with me. | |||
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Team Apathy |
Ok, thanks for the info! | |||
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