quote:

Originally posted by drill sgt:
July 2020 our 18yr old water heater failed/ would not stay lit. Called a professional plumber who suggested either rebuilding or replacing the burner system but would not guarantee the rebuild would hold up or a total replacement with a new water heater. Due to the age decieded to go the new replacement route ending up with the Rheem Professional 50 gal and just 2 weeks ago it failed by not staying lit even after having made several trips into the attic to get the pilot light to re-light. That is correct a new heater just a couple days shy of 1 year old failed but warranty did send out a new gas control valve assy. The Command Sgt Major of the War Department (wife) was not a happy camper with no hot water for a week and 2 plumber service call bills in 1 weeks time. Warranty covers only parts but not any labor cost. And to put icing on the cake the orginal failure happening on a Saturday morning as well as the warranty parts coming late Friday afternoon waited till Monday morning to call plumber so as not to incur weekend/overtime hour rates..................................... drill sgt.

quote:

Originally posted by DCFD4:
…..we've been in the house for 5 years now and I've had no kind of professional service/inspection done on it. Do you guys think it would be wise to have someone come check it out? Check the rods, etc?

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Here’s a good explanation https://www.plumbingsupply.com...ater-anode-rods.html

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:

quote:

Originally posted by DCFD4:
…..we've been in the house for 5 years now and I've had no kind of professional service/inspection done on it. Do you guys think it would be wise to have someone come check it out? Check the rods, etc?

To check the anode you will need a large human to physically bear hug the water heater while you use a cheater pipe on a socket (11/16)wrench to break it initially, or use a impact driver if you are alone. The anode is screwed into the top of the tank, sometimes under a small cover…it’s s hex head (like a giant nut) sometimes they have a welded bump on them-it’s important to show what’s in the anode itself. You can remove it and a rod about 1/2” thick should be attached…and they usually goes down into the tank to end about six inches above the bottom of the tank.

Don’t use pipe dope or Teflon tape when putting the new one in. There has to be a connection between the rod and the tank.

Here’s a good explanation https://www.plumbingsupply.com...ater-anode-rods.html

quote:

Originally posted by Blume9mm:
One of the amazing things about American Manufacturing…."