quote:

Originally posted by BigSwede:
Righty tighty, lefty loosy

Uhm, except, some cars, have reverse threads on one side (I can't remember which) because, as the theory goes, the spinning rotation of the wheels can facilitate the lug nuts loosening.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:

quote:

Originally posted by Hobbs:
Yes it will be easier, but take longer with the Fumoto. Have had one on my 17yr old Jeep for well, about 17yrs. Super easy to change the oil but takes forever to drain. I pull the dip stick and oil fill cover when I open the Fumoto in hopes it will help drain flow ... still takes "forever". No worries, I know how long it takes and plan accordingly. Usually open it up and walk away and forget it about it for an hour or so LOL. Probably doesn't take that long, but yeah.

Really? The Fumoto I installed in the oil pan on my Ford truck drains almost as fast as the stock drain plug. I love the thing.

Well mine IS 17yrs old ... may need cleaning?...design has changed?...smaller for Jeep than Ford truck? ... I have no concept of relative time? Dunno, but I love mine too ... or it wouldn't have been on there for 17yrs so far.

I'm 72 and always change my own oil. Don't trust that to anyone else.

quote:

Originally posted by Hobbs:

quote:

Originally posted by ARman:
Well, and least next time, it will be easier, just flip the leaver on the Fumoto drain plug, and lossen the oil filter, because this time, it was put on and tightened properly.

Yes it will be easier, but take longer with the Fumoto. Have had one on my 17yr old Jeep for well, about 17yrs. Super easy to change the oil but takes forever to drain. I pull the dip stick and oil fill cover when I open the Fumoto in hopes it will help drain flow ... still takes "forever". No worries, I know how long it takes and plan accordingly. Usually open it up and walk away and forget it about it for an hour or so LOL. Probably doesn't take that long, but yeah.

Have one on our Outback. Haven't noticed any real difference in drain times. I'll be adding one to the Armada at next oil change as it's otherwise impossible to drain without making a huge mess.

quote:

Originally posted by Hobbs:

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:

quote:

Originally posted by Hobbs:
Yes it will be easier, but take longer with the Fumoto. Have had one on my 17yr old Jeep for well, about 17yrs. Super easy to change the oil but takes forever to drain. I pull the dip stick and oil fill cover when I open the Fumoto in hopes it will help drain flow ... still takes "forever". No worries, I know how long it takes and plan accordingly. Usually open it up and walk away and forget it about it for an hour or so LOL. Probably doesn't take that long, but yeah.

Really? The Fumoto I installed in the oil pan on my Ford truck drains almost as fast as the stock drain plug. I love the thing.

Well mine IS 17yrs old ... may need cleaning?...design has changed?...smaller for Jeep than Ford truck? ... I have no concept of relative time? Dunno, but I love mine too ... or it wouldn't have been on there for 17yrs so far.

I don’t know about that. I have a Fumoto valve on my 2015 Cherokee and it drains plenty fast.

Might be worth upgrading yours to their newest design.

-Rob

 
I've always used a strap wrench (with a nylon strap) on oil filters. Wipe the filter off first, and I've not yet met a filter that the strap wrench wouldn't remove. The metal handle has a 1/2" hole in the bottom for inserting a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, once you've got the strap tight on the filter.

I've had the same thing happen with oil changes in the past.

Some shop people do aggravating things. I had a set of tires I bought installed at a local tire shop.

Told the installer explicitly "34 lbs of air" tire pressure each tire.

When I left the shop, my truck rode really hard, so I stopped within a mile at a shopping center to check the tire air pressure

42 lbs...

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:
 
I've always used a strap wrench (with a nylon strap) on oil filters. Wipe the filter off first, and I've not yet met a filter that the strap wrench wouldn't remove. The metal handle has a 1/2" hole in the bottom for inserting a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, once you've got the strap tight on the filter.

Unfortunately a strap wrench isn't an option. Where the oil filter is, it's in the front bottom of the engine block, but the exhaust header is in a place that you only have access from the bottom.

The only thing that I can think of on the oil filter is that the tech didn't lube the gasket and then over tightned it.

The crush washer was fairly deformed, so that was way over the 25 ft/lbs. Come on people, it's not that hard to do an oil change properly!

I always check to see if there was oil in it after serving, I have seen people drive off without oil and seize an engine.

Lsst time it was in for a recall, they broke my car. They didn't connect the dashboard wiring harness correctly. The next time I drove it at night I didn't have dash lights.

Took it back, they broke it worse, had the car 13 days. Then called me and told me that they couldn't find the problem, and to pick it up. To take it to a specialist, for automotive electronics and if it was their fault they would pay for it.

I took the dashboard apart and found and fixed the problem in under two hours. That's when I lost faith and started to not trust them. The first two years they were great. Now, not so much.

Unfortunately they are the closest Subaru dealership, at 26 miles away. The next closest is 50 miles and the next is 75 miles the last is two hours away! That's one reason there isn't more Subaru's around here. Lack of support.

ARman

quote:

Originally posted by LS1 GTO:

quote:

Originally posted by BigSwede:
Righty tighty, lefty loosy

Uhm, except, some cars, have reverse threads on one side (I can't remember which) because, as the theory goes, the spinning rotation of the wheels can facilitate the lug nuts loosening.

Some of the higher performance Porsche’s like the Turbo S have central locking hubs. The kicker is that the torque for that hub is something like 660 #/ft. so you’ll need one hell of a torque wrench but of course if you don’t mind shelling out over 200K for the car you won’t have any problem spending big bucks for a good torque wrench that has that capability..

quote:

Originally posted by cruiser68:
I've had oil filters so tight from the factory that they got crushed trying to remove. Had to use a big screwdriver through the filter. Same deal, must have a gorilla putting the filters on.

Its not that they were put on overly tight. Its because they were installed without any lube on the gasket. Shops sometimes won't take the time to lube gaskets because the tech is too lazy to take the time. As for the factory, is lubing the filter gasket part of their SOP?

I have to deal with this all the time with either the drain plug or the filters.
The first thing I do is check history on the rig and if it was from some dipshit in the shop I hunt them down and make them do it.
I love it when you turn it as hard as you can, as far as it will go and it snaps back to where it was.

The shop has had to buy a couple oil pans due to people being stupid.
Because you know, the drain plug takes a 1 1/2" socket so you must need a 3/4" impact to put it back in.
Who cares if it has 45 ft-lbs in big letters cast into the pan right by the plug. Swing away Merrill

Did your drain plug have some kind of glue on it? I ask because walmart and ziplube have been putting yellow trim adhesive on the drain plugs and super tight.
I asked walmart about this and I was told that walmart is worried the drain plug would unscrew itself.

My granddaughter had her oil changed and then it started leaking. I took a look at it and there was so much glue on it the drain plug wasn't even against the pan.
Had to drain and clean off all that glue.
Refilled no glue no leaks.

quote:

Originally posted by Greymann:
Did your drain plug have some kind of glue on it? I ask because walmart and ziplube have been putting yellow trim adhesive on the drain plugs and super tight.
I asked walmart about this and I was told that walmart is worried the drain plug would unscrew itself.

My granddaughter had her oil changed and then it started leaking. I took a look at it and there was so much glue on it the drain plug wasn't even against the pan.
Had to drain and clean off all that glue.
Refilled no glue no leaks.

Sounds like that store bought a couple of engines and that is their solution.
Because replacing the plug seal and torquing it to spec is hard to do.

The lube guys at my shop have to use a torque wrench and mark it with torque seal.
They also have a list with all the various plugs and what they pop at.
Pan plugs are either all the way in and marked or all the way out.

Lubing the filter seal and tightening it to 3/4 turn past contact is still a difficult concept to grasp though. Even with stick figure instructions on the filter.

This is why I've always done my own. Even after buying a Toyota brand new and having their "free" oil changes for 2 years, I did it myself. Wasn't worth the time bringing the car there.

I change in 7,500 mile intervals and put the car on jack stands. While the oil drains, I rotate the tires and take a look overall underneath the car and check the fluids.

It's 1/2 a morning of "work" but it's in my garage at home where I go at my own pace.

I dread the day I get too old to do my own work.

Breaking that drain plug the first time to install the Fumoto is a major PITA. Definitely appreciate having the filter top-side on the Outback.

quote:

Originally posted by M-11:
Breaking that drain plug the first time to install the Fumoto is a major PITA. Definitely appreciate having the filter top-side on the Outback.

That’s one thing I definitely like about my Cherokee. Not only is my filet top side, but it’s cartridge style. I can change my oil without spilling a drop or getting messy at all if I try.

-Rob

I change my own oil and filter for these same reasons. However, there is that first oil change after buying a new car. When I bought my 1992 4Runner and went to change the oil for the first time, I had to take it to a quick-change oil place just to loosen the drain plug.

Both of my cars have Stahlbus drain valves. I took my Outback to the dealer for its first oil change and asked them to put the valve on instead of the plug. And the Outback's oil filter is there staring at you when you open the hood.

not really related, but not a chance I would use an aftermarket filter on a wrx. I've seen way too many of them fail.

Never had that much trouble with an oil drain plug.

I have put a hole in the side of a filter once that someone must have put on with a breaker bar. That was a huge PIA and like you took over an hour to unfuck.

Never had an issue with a filter I have put on.

It's amazing that so-called professionals in a shop can screw up even the most basic task.