Who is familiar with screw extractors?
I watched a few U-tube videos...

I have a 4Runner with a snapped off bolt where the license plate screws into the back of the vehicle.

I drilled a hole, as close to center as possible but I can't get the #2 extractor to bite.

I'm thinking that maybe I need one that is more tapered than the cheap one I bought?

It's pretty rusted in there. Who makes a good one?

I've never had much luck with the various extractors I've tried.

I've had better luck with using a Dremel with a small cutoff wheel to grind a slot and then use a flathead screwdriver or bit. Depending on the location, and how flush and stuck the bolt is, that may be an option.

Avoid imported (unless from Europe) screw extractors. The metallurgy and heat treatment isn't right and they are often brittle. Once a screw extractor breaks off in a drilled bolt, your problems are worse than when you started.

If the screw broke due to corrosion seizing the threads, the marriage between the hole and bolt is still as strong as was when the bolt broke. Drilling it all the way out and chasing the threads may be the only option unless you get lucky with penetrating oil.

Easy out brand is what I use. Sometimes you need to tap the extractor a few times with a hammer to get it to bite.

It may be possible to get to the back side of the broken screw and turn it with a pair of vice grips if it's sticking out far enough.

If it is rusted, there is little chance of getting it out.

I have drilled out some and then tapped the hole for a metric screw.

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Once a screw extractor breaks off in a drilled bolt, your problems are worse than when you started.

That's what I'm worried about.

I drilled the hole (using a left hand bit, in reverse) pretty close to center, and it's about 1/4 inch deep.

Not a great photo, but here's what we're looking at:

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I've had better luck with using a Dremel with a small cutoff wheel to grind a slot and then use a flathead screwdriver or bit.

Same, if it's not countersunk.

You need to address the reason the screw became stuck in the first place. Rust. Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil such as PB Blaster to pretreat for a couple of days. Otherwise you have little hope of backing the screw out.

That looks like it might respond to a combination of penetrating oil followed by drilling all the way through the bolt with a small bit and then increasing the bit size until you've hit the largest size possible without damaging the threads.

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Originally posted by thezoltar:
You need to address the reason the screw became stuck in the first place. Rust. Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil such as PB Blaster to pretreat for a couple of days. Otherwise you have little hope of backing the screw out.

I think that's right. I'm doing that.

BTW a 50/50 mix of ATF ( auto transmission fluid) and Acetone makes an excellent penetrating oil. Acetone is available in any hardware store in the paint section. It’s also a great cleaner. Be sure to read the label.

And BTW it won’t store long, so mix up just enough to use right away.

Mixing and using it from a metal oil spout container makes it easy to use. Or a old eye dropper syringe, or any syringe, is easy to apply from.

Good luck to you.

After a good soaking the screw may just run out the back while you are drilling. Out is out either way!

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Originally posted by thezoltar:
After a good soaking the screw may just run out the back while you are drilling. Out is out either way!

That's what I was getting at in my previous post. If it is possible to access the back side, there may be enough of the screw to grab onto and screw it all the way through.

Often as not the reason the screw failed is that it was overstressed on installation. When a screw or bolt is inserted, it's tightened; with bolts, typically to a pre-determined "torque" value, and with screws, most people tighten to whatever feels right.

"Torque" isn't tightness. It's stretch. As the threads are driven deeper, the bolt or screw is stetched, and that's what's actually being determined by torque (whether by calibrated instrument or "elbow torque..the way it feels). Too much, and it's likely to fail when its time to come out, and it may have been overstretched. This also means that once it's failed, it's not that hard to remove using a screw extractor.

There are a dozen or so ways to remove a screw, but once it has failed, only a few. In this case, as others noted, it appears to ahve rust beneath the head, indicating that it may also be along the threads. Soak it. I've never found anything that works better than Kroil, except perhaps Mouse Milk, if you can get it. (it's a real product).

There are a number of different screw extractors or "ez outs," and some are fairly worthless. Some work really well. When you use an extractor, reemember that as you turn it's screwing into the screw shaft, and as it does this, it expands the shaft, increasing friction and making it harder to remove; too large an extractor can make it hard to remove and break the screw.

Of the dozens of extractor styles out there, the ony one I've ever found to be reliable and worth anything are:



Those particular ones are from Home Depot, made by Lisle, but there are several versions, and Napa usually has them. They come in several sizes. Don't go too big. Drill deep enough, and if it's slipping when you use it, you need to drill a bit deeper.

A lot of made of left hand bits. It's a nice idea, but unnecessary; a regular bit will work. A carbide bit works best. Fasteners like bolts and screws are often particularly hard. Given thin, small screws, it's best to go with a pilot hole using a small bit, and expand it with a larger bit after. Use the correct bit for the extractor. don't simply select a random bit size. The bit for the extractor is found on the extractor itself.

Use a socket to turn the extractor and use both hands to steady it; if you tip it while turning, there's a good possibility of breaking off an extractor in the screw that you're attempting to remove, and the you're really "screwed." The extractor is much harder and very difficult to drill. It's als for that reason that I strongly prefer the extractor style pictured above, because they're far, far less likely to break off than most other types.

Avoid gimick-style extractors, long ones, long thin ones, and ones that combine a drill and extractor in one.

If the hole you drilled is close to center, I'd use the correct size drill, all the way through, to tap it over again. Either the remnants will come out or you'll have good enough threads for a license plate.

I think the square shaped screw extractor are the best. I've used this style a lot with great results. I would think you could find some at Napa or Home Depot ect.
Here's a amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont...234&s=gateway&sr=8-8

I've tried them all back before I retired. Gee that sounds good!. Besides everything mentioned you may want to try a left handed drill bit. Many times it will catch on the broken bolt and pull it out.

Jim

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Besides everything mentioned you may want to try a left handed drill bit. Many times it will catch on the broken bolt and pull it out.

That's what I was hoping for. I drilled the hole with a left handed drill bit. Unfortunately, it didn't move at all. I'm soaking it with PB Blaster and I'll go back to the hardware store.

I've not had any luck with screw extractors. Easier to just drill it out, then use a bolt and nut.

If you’ve never done it before check out Ave on YouTube. I believe he’s an Mechanical Engineer and his videos are amusing and educational.

https://m.youtube.com/user/ard...ry=Bolt%20extraction