Have not had a greasable suspension since the 92 Mustang. Back in the day I’d just grab the grease gun from Grandpas tool chest and load them up with that.

Getting ready to put the Mustang back together with all new Suspension goodies. Some polyurethane and some rubber.

What grease??

We've been told that grease is just oil with soap mixed in, making it thicker. Well, except moly grease, etc. On my Jeeps that have grease fittings, I've used Mobil1 grease. Its red and gooey. You can get a tube of it at AutoZone. Not cheap. But I've got more time than common sense, so I don't really mind greasing every few thousand miles, which often is once or twice a year. Hobby vehicles generally get more attention than grocery getters. Its not like its a major expense item. You've got to figure how many fittings you've got. But a squirt or two to each won't amount to more than a tube every year.

What you'll find is the Mobil1 turns into red oil over a year or two.

Been using Mobil1 for decades.

I like Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty for anything exposed to moisture. White and green tube

I've used moly grease in the past on things like tie rod ends and ball joints. Its seemed to get the job done for a reasonable price.

I use Lucas red and tacky grease.

I've a commercial lawn mower that has 20+ Zirk fittings and a PTO shaft that needs grease. At the recommendation of the guy who services these mowers professionally, I've switched to Wolf's Head Red Grease.

I don't know if it was Wolf's Head, but red grease is what the trailer place used when they packed our boat trailer's bearings. (The wheels were in there for stubborn lug nut removal and replacement of some missing lugs, so I had 'em clean and repack the bearings while they were at it.)

M1 is good stuff for suspension bushings. Sticky and stays put.

My 229 likes it too.

Poly bushings can be squeaky as the devil. I put them on an explorer and hated them for that. Might check if there is a specific cure, plain ol Mobil 1 worked for a short time and they’d be back squeaking. I got tired of getting grease in there.

quote:

Originally posted by hvyhawler:
I use Lucas red and tacky grease.

Likewise

I have lithium. It came in a tube and bought bought from Hotchkiss and [at that time] it was something like $20.

Honestly, best buy ever for suspension (and I don't need to touch that crap with my hand(s)).

Red n tacky for the rubber

For the poly bushings, the best I’ve ever found is Energy Suspension Formula 5. Use it as a prelude and you’ll likely never touch them again.

Traveller Marine grease from Tractor Supply. I use it for my boat trailer's wheel bearings which get regularly submerged in saltwater. Works great on my poly antiroll bar bushings and tie rod ends on my truck as well as the various grease points on our ATVs. It's uses calcium sulfonate as a thickener. No soap, so it doesn't wash out.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: trapper189,

quote:

Originally posted by sigspecops:
I've used moly grease in the past on things like tie rod ends and ball joints. Its seemed to get the job done for a reasonable price.

I also use Moly (Valvoline Palladium, recommended by Caterpillar) for tie rod ends, ball joints, steering joints, and any other joints that don't see high rotation. For bearings, I use Staplex red grease.

I'd try silicone for the squeak.
These don't require grease like a metal on metal suspension joint and grease may shorten the life of the material.

Generally any grease rated NGLI 2 will do the job. What you shouldn’t do is mix grease types.

Silicone grease is the most persistent and best for heavy duty, harsh environments.

Red and tacky for daily driver, and least harsh conditions. It needs to be re-applied more often than silicone.

The Red and Tacky might also be a bit quieter.

(fully pre-lubed all joining/contact component surfaces during assembly is a must)

And for rubber, do not use petroleum based lubracants.

quote:

Some polyurethane and some rubber.

I'm having a hard time understanding this. Did you install a control arm with bushings that have grease fittings on them? Otherwise, these (and the steering rack mounting and sway bar link) bushings don't need greasing. Oil and grease actually attack rubber. Polyurethane control arm bushings will also make the car ride stiffer, unless this is what you wanted. As for the outer tie rod ends (inners are not greasable) and lower (there are no upper) ball joints, there isn't a penny's worth of difference between chassis greases.

Yes the control arm bushings are poly and have zerk fittings.
And correct I am trying to stiffen the he suspension up a bit.

Just found this little nugget for poly bushing lubrication.

quote:

Bushing Lubrication
The suspension bushings included with this part can only be lubricated with PTFE grease, also referred to as "Marine Grease". PTFE grease is a very sticky, opaque grease that is water proof and will not degrade the bushing material. If lubed properly at installation, these bushings will not need to be lubricated again. Use of any other grease on these bushings will cause the bushing to fail and any bushing warranty to be voided.

quote:

Bushing Lubrication
The suspension bushings included with this part can only be lubricated with PTFE grease ...

OK, now we both know.