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Yall tell me - should those rafters be on 16" centers?

There is a major supply problem for lumber ongoing and supply issues took up some time on TOS recently. Seems if the homeowner wanted A they needed to have their choice for B and the contractors all said that C was most likely what they would get.

Could the contractor even get lumber long enough to run from ridge to soffit? On a million dollar project, why the heck not?

I'm with you guys, that isn't $1m construction technique. My cheap A frame from the 70s didnt show those details - other than the 3/4" particle subfloor being the ONLY floor. Buying a used home is so revealing when you remodel and uncover.

American code is like saying "milspec" for an AR. Its the minimum acceptable standard. Read Canadian code and compare it just for support of masonry floors in a bathroom. I did, American is a springboard of popping tiles in 20 years. Garbage. I incorporated CAN code for that as much as I could on a remodel, sistered sagging joists to level, added the ones missed in the cheap framing (walls in between joists? WTF?) and then used steel cross ties, with the last 1/4" of deck screw tightening it. Hums like a piano.

Give me a million dollars and it would be rock tiltup self standing, self supporting roof, steel stud interior, 5/8 rock semi bermed with iso block wall and detached garage. Not quite EF5 proof but American stick isn't even EF0 resistant.
 
Posts: 613 | Registered: December 14, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks everyone for the much needed sanity check. I basically fired my construction project manager when his attitude changed from, "yes we'll get these rafters fixed" to "those are just cosmetic issues". I have a meeting with the director of construction early next week, so hopefully I can get these problems fixed without too much delay. If not, I guess I will have to bring in a third party inspector.
 
Posts: 163 | Location: Texas | Registered: July 27, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Shall Not Be Infringed
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Not just No, but HELL NO! I wouldn't build a shed, doghouse, or ANYTHING else like that!


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Posts: 8946 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: October 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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And you probably want to make sure your construction loan lender (if you have one) is aware of what the builder is doing.
 
Posts: 3598 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: July 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of mcrimm
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In my banking career, I financed a buttload of homes for speculation and owners. I've seen tons of crappy work. This is right up there with the crappiest. Totally unacceptable.

Makes me wonder what else is like this but hidden at this point.



I'm sorry if I hurt you feelings when I called you stupid - I thought you already knew - Unknown
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When you have no future, you live in the past. " Sycamore Row" by John Grisham
 
Posts: 4238 | Location: Saddlebrooke, Arizona | Registered: December 24, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You need a copy of "Construction: Principles, Materials, and Methods" by Olin and Simmons. These books were published by the Savings and Loan to evaluate construction loans.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19405...5:g:MaMAAOSwjgZgrGeo


41
 
Posts: 11828 | Location: Herndon, VA | Registered: June 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Seeing this on a $1mil+ home, I'd sure hate to see their work on a $100k home.

I wouldn't hire them to build a dog house!


In this corner of the world, a dog house is all you get for $100K.


-------------

The sadder but wiser girl for me.
 
Posts: 1057 | Location: Idaho Panhandle | Registered: July 18, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by smlsig:
attaching a flyer to extend the rafter tail (not trusses) is allowed but they are always run up and “sistered” to the rafter, not just butted up against the house which allows the soffit to support the live and dead load required. “Butting” the tail to the rafter will not allow proper support.



This.

Sistering on a tail is nothing new and typical. However, there are some guidelines to it. I've seen it done where the tail is butted up to the original web then a longer scab is added to one or both sides. If this went back to an engineer they would provide you with the length of scab along with a nail or screw pattern for the repair.
 
Posts: 782 | Location: PA  | Registered: December 05, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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sorry to say that is some ugly work and lumber. I'd be concerned as well. my first conversation would be with the builder and the next one with the inspector
 
Posts: 3529 | Registered: August 19, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Get my pies
outta the oven!

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The quality of lumber looks like they went and collected all the rejects from lumberyards all over...maybe they did.


 
Posts: 33862 | Location: Pennsylvania | Registered: November 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My first career was in construction, Dad was a General Contractor and I have been hands on around residential construction all my life to some degree.

I am really sorry for what you are going through but glad to see you question it and are taking action.



If it ain't woke... don't fix it.
 
Posts: 4130 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Email sent.
 
Posts: 3598 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: July 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Witticism pending...
Picture of KBobAries
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quote:
Originally posted by Tirod: Yall tell me - should those rafters be on 16" centers?...


Not necessarily.

quote:
Originally posted by CoastieLT: ...I guess I will have to bring in a third party inspector.


With each picture you post I'd be looking for one already.



I'm not as illiterate as my typos would suggest.
 
Posts: 3529 | Location: Big city, SW state, alleged republic | Registered: January 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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