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I’m getting ready to reload for 38, 44, and 45-70. I have thousands of the underwood “cherry coated hard cast”. I’ve always heard that lead leads to fouling. But coated lead at reasonable pressures makes this a non issue. Hard cast does not deform and is best for maximum penetration as far as I know. So am I correct that coated hard cast is built for max loads like underwood with little to no fouling? Are all coatings the same? Are all hard cast bullets the same? Within reason of course. 10 years to retirement! Just waiting! | ||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best![]() |
That Hi-Tec coating is tough stuff. I've recovered bullets out of the berm with the coating still completely intact. All coatings are not created equal. I load a lot of 9mm, so I buy those from a guy who coats with Hi-Tec. It's awesome stuff. I also cast my own bullets for my lower-volume calibers, particularly those that use a lot of lead (heavier bullets). I use harbor freight powder coating for those, and even with 2-3 coats, it's not as durable as the Hi-Tec. It works pretty well, but if you push them fast enough it'll flake off and you can get some leading in the bore. Underwood also gas checks some of their really hot loads, which also helps prevent leading. Obviously all cast bullets are not the same, as there are varying levels of alloy hardness, and without knowing the BHN of a particular bullet, it's hard to know exactly what you're dealing with. Every vendor is probably a little different with what they describe as "hard cast." Check out Missouri Bullet Company's FAQ page. They have some really good info on the topic. https://missouribullet.com/faq.php They also have another page with a good discussion on hardness: https://www.missouribullet.com/technical.php | |||
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Not sure I can answer any of the questions, but I’ll jump in anyway. When it comes to true ‘hard cast’ bullets, I think about lead with a gas check, and a listed ‘Brinell’ hardness number. That number is often 18-22, pure lead at 4 for comparison. These projectiles are often advertised for higher pressure revolver loads. Yes, I’ve seen the ‘hard cast’ loads advertised for semi-auto loads, even bought my brother some for his 40 S&W. I consider those different than revolver loads, almost like FMJ performance. Regular ‘coated bullets’ can be cleaner work with, copper wash, whatever, possibly cleaner to shoot also. Often lead bullets vary in size a little more than jacketed. The particular bore fit, pressure, and hardness all come into play for cleanliness. Even things like type of lube used and powder can contribute to how things look after shooting, or ‘smokiness’. If I had to identify a poor choice, heavy ‘leading’ bullet it may be an ill fitting, soft lead slug at high velocity. After that, sooting a high number before inspecting or cleaning. I have carried my Ruger 45 Colt to help on a bear hunt, hardcast WFN loads with Win-296. That said, much of my casual shooting is with modest loads and ‘plated’ bullets. I think one just has to experiment a little, the next reloader’s particulars will vary. Even to jump into the ‘polygon rifling & lead bullet’ debate, experiences will not be in lockstep. I think they are gone now, others are there, I liked ‘Beartooth’ bullets, still have a few. The 45-70 can have similarities to loading big bore revolvers loads with even more variables. Many manuals have 3 pressure ranges with the 45-70, from ‘trap-door’ to an almost unshootable modern max, like in the Ruger #1. | |||
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Thanks guys. I don’t wanna mess with gas checks, I’ll order from underwood for woods ammo. I’ll see if I can find the hi tek, I’ve got some inventory reminders for American reloading for some FMJ as well. 10 years to retirement! Just waiting! | |||
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semi-reformed sailor![]() |
I cast for my 357 and 44 magnum Using lead scraps I got a decade ago. It created leading in the 44 even at special velocities. So I started powder coating. It removes the need for lube. I tried the harbor freight stuff and it’s junk. Finally bought some Eastwood ford blue and jet black. Now I cast, let cool, powder coat using the tumbler way, then bake em in a toaster oven, then when cool I run them thru a lee sizing die. Thats it, no gas checks on the 357 or 44 magnums and they work fine. I can ding the gong at 100 yds with no leading on either caliber. I haven’t done 45ACP bc mom bought me a bunch of blue bullets for reloading it. With the blue bullet there’s no leading and no lube. But there’s a wipe of blue on the patch when I clean them. "Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker | |||
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I use Blue Bullets and had never had trouble a/ their coatings. When I don’t use Blue Bullets I use X-Treme plated bullets. Great luck w/ those as well. | |||
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I have used powder coat and the hi-tek. The "hammer test" is where you smack a bullet with a hammer, if the coating stays on the bullet despite it now being shorter and wider vs flake off, you are good to go. You can heat a hi-tek coated bullet until all of the lead melts inside and it won't run out until you poke a hole in it. There are some photos of how I apply it as well as recovered bullets after firing here. https://www.thehighroad.org/in...ting-part-ii.713642/ | |||
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