I took my Henry.257 carbine out for the first time today. It ran great and was smooth as butter.

Problem came with my scope. It’s hitting 12”plus low. Bummer.

Usually it takes a few clicks one way or the other to get the height dialed in.

I went all the way around the dial and it was still 6”-8” low.

I did some YouTube research and came across a short video that said that I need to take the dial cap off and turn the post to zero the height.

Anyone else have any experience with this or suggestions?

I don’t think it was bore sighted at the LGS.

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated!

quote:

Originally posted by PR64:
I took my Henry.257 carbine out for the first time today. It ran great and was smooth as butter.

Problem came with my scope. It’s hitting 12”plus low. Bummer.

Usually it takes a few clicks one way or the other to get the height dialed in.

I went all the way around the dial and it was still 6”-8”

If you mounted the scope, then after adjusting it’s way low, it’s more likely a mounting issue than a scope problem. I’d reevaluate the mounting system/method, possibly try a different type of bases or rings, as able.

If starting over, center the scope adjustment screws back to neutral.

Years ago I gave a mid-upper quality Zeiss scope to a relative for an elk hunt. His report came back that the scope was defective, ran out of adjustment trying to sight it in. He brought it to a gunshop, same conclusion. This was a gunshop, not a real gunsmith.

I said let me check out the scope. I reset the adjustment, mounted it on a known 308, worked superbly. The mounting system on his NIB 300 Win mag was amiss. Yes I gave the scope back, he used his 30-06 for the hunt.

Had a Leupold VX-3HD. Sold it because I didn't like the forced lock at zero, but it was a very good scope. Two solutions:

1) Pull the elevation knob, sight it with knob removed and replace when zeroed.

2) Changed the mounting base to a 20 - 30 MOA elevated base. Note: this will raise the ocular and may require a raised comb depending on your cheek weld.

Method 1 preferred if there is enough internal travel.

I would try what pace40 recommends, but a couple of questions. Which model VX-3HD scope is it? (It may not matter, but …). What distance are you trying to zero at? 100 yards? If the cartridge is the 357 Magnum, it would probably require quite a bit of elevation to zero at that distance. (Or is it the 257 Roberts cartridge? )


You say, though, that you went all the way around the dial; if that means you turned it so it went back to zero, did you try turning it past that point? If I understand the specifications for the one scope I looked at, one full turn of the dial changes the elevation by 15 minutes of angle, but the specs say the total elevation adjustment range is 55 MOA, or 27.5 MOA up or down. That would seem to mean that you could turn the dial past one full turn to zero, perhaps for another 12+ MOA.

Even if that works, to increase the elevation another 8 inches at 100 yards would require about another 8 MOA, and that would have the internal erector mechanism close to its maximum movement range. That’s okay unless you ever wanted more elevation for some reason, but it could affect the degree that the windage could be adjusted (if it’s off now).

If you can’t get the rifle zeroed by turning the elevation up with the cap off, then something would have to be done with the scope base. Can you post photos of the rings and base? Sometimes the types of bases I believe you have can be adjusted by shimming; that’s not very elegant, but can work.

quote:

Originally posted by pace40:


2) Changed the mounting base to a 20 - 30 MOA elevated base. Note: this will raise the ocular and may require a raised comb depending on your cheek weld.

If you went all the way around, I'm gonna go with this.

I was shooting at 25 yards. Then I was going to go out to 50, then 100.

The scope is a Leupold VX-3HD 2.5-8x36 CDS-ZL.

When I say I went all the way around, it has a stop on this model. I went all the way around to the stop.

I’m not an expert by any means. I’m a weekend warrior

All the scopes I have on my AR’s were mounted by the same owner of my LGS and they just took a few adjustments to get zeroed in. Never had an experience like this.

quote:

Originally posted by PR64:
I went all the way around the dial and it was still 6”-8” low.

For clarification....

you want 360 degrees with the dial?
Or you went until you ran out of elevation adjustment?

This scope has a locking stop. You can only go 360 degrees with the knob on. (the reason I sold mine) To get full range of adjustment, you have to pull the knob and sight it by turning the stem. Then replace the knob.

quote:

Originally posted by cas:

quote:

Originally posted by PR64:
I went all the way around the dial and it was still 6”-8” low.

For clarification....

you want 360 degrees with the dial?
Or you went until you ran out of elevation adjustment?

I went from 0 to about 12 where it stopped.

You have to take that turret off to sight it in.

That has a zero stop built in it, that's why you can't go any father. THAT makes them a pain in the butt to sight in.

I'm torn on the idea. I think it's a great idea... just not on a Leupold. lol

I’m not familiar with that particular model, but if the dial stopped rotating because the little plunger in the elevation turret popped back out after being depressed to allow it to be turned, it might just need to be pushed in again for additional elevation.

Or the method pace40 mentioned would allow dialing up as far as the mechanics allow without dinking with the turret stop. It’s certainly worth trying.

But if you’re hitting 8 inches low at 25 yards, I would bet a nickel that nothing you do with the scope will allow getting enough elevation. If I’m right, something must be done with the scope mount/base. But that is all I can offer without further clarification and information.

As a further unrelated comment about zero stops, they are beneficial when it’s necessary to dial back to a specific elevation point quickly and without having to look at the dial, such as by a sniper under low light conditions. It’s also useful for competitors who want to dial by touch and be sure of starting from the same place every time. The other ostensible purpose of a zero stop is to ensure the dial doesn’t get turned without the user’s noticing the fact.

I must say, though, that I don’t see the advantage of a zero stop on scopes like the VX-3HD line which will usually be used by hunters or other people who aren’t normally going to be dialing up and down under conditions when a hard stop would be useful. I suppose assurance that the dial can’t get turned inadvertently could be an advantage under some conditions, but the best way to prevent that is to put caps over the turrets.

Then again, sometimes even us low speed, high drag types are impressed by features that the cool guys need. So who am I to second guess anything?

The turret won't turn unless you push the button. To sight it in it needs to come off. Which makes it a pain to turn.

I’m coming to the conclusion that I will need to take the dial yup off.

I am going to check with my LGS, but it seems like I will have to zero with the dial off.

Shiny clean.

Guys, just watch the video.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

quote:

Originally posted by pace40:
Guys, just watch the video.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I watched this video when I got home.

quote:

Originally posted by PR64:
I watched this video when I got home.

Thats how you do it, but I would suggest not using vice grips.
I always used a small adjustable wrench.

Had to use pliers on mine. Though both the windage and elevation adjustments are mine are by far the hardest and grittiest of any scope I've ever touched. I honestly thought it was broken at first. Quite disappointing what they're turning out now days.

One thing about using vise grips or wrench is to be sure to know when we have gotten to the end of the adjustment range.

quote:

Originally posted by cas:
I honestly thought it was broken at first.

Sounds like it might have been. Mine was actually very smooth. I would probably still have it if it wasn't for that annoying automatic zero lock.