Sigfreund,
I don't disagree with your logic, but
what good LVPOs are available in the OP's price bracket?

Going with the Aimpoint ACO. Ordered.

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:
what good LVPOs are available in the OP's price bracket?

Guilty as charged.
I did not even think to consider that question.

I can only go back to the original question of “What’s the best option?” as the first consideration.

If price is a firm limiting factor, then your question is the most important one: No good LPVO scopes, don’t even ask about them and set your sights (NPI) on what can be afforded.

But sometimes pushing the envelope in a discussion like this is still worthwhile. More than once in my purchasing history I’ve decided that I really needed to spend more than I originally planned after I researched an issue. “Maybe I just need to wait until I can afford what I’ve decided is the minimum necessary.”

And with some products, if we can afford to spend only some limited amount of money, it simply makes more sense to not buy at all, because all we’re paying for is unacceptably poor performance.

I’m not saying it applies to this question because I don’t follow prices very much and therefore I really have no idea whether it does, but with certain products going below a certain price level is just a waste of whatever money we spend. Xyz LPVO has cloudy optics made from recycled beer bottles, it won’t track to allow a proper zero, the life of the battery that’s available only by ordering directly from one vendor in Chinastan is 90 minutes? No, I wouldn’t bother putting that on my rifle if it were free.

Anyway, your question is absolutely valid, but all that’s my rationale for not having noted the original price limit set by the OP, and I was discussing theory much more than what was necessarily possible for him.

Sigfreund,
I again don't disagree with you, all your points are good. I'm in the buy once, cry once school and that it's better to save for the good stuff vs buy now.

I was hoping that you had a best value scope in mind.

I jumped on the website of a couple of my favorite glass makers to see If I could find an LVPO from a quality maker that met the $350 budget, but I couldn't find anything that I could recomend. There are vortex, bushnell, SIG and primary arms offerings that could meet the price point, but I don't have any experience with them. My LVPO is a Vortex PST II.

I just ordered a NOS Colt 3x20 from Brownell's. It came with a free A1/C7 Upper.

I dont know if Arrow is military grade but I have a 1x10 lvpo tomahawk with over 5000 rds of 855 through it and I have not been gentle with it. It has been flawless for me. I think I paid 349 for it.


Though my advice for the OP is wait untill black friday and get an eotech. I have astigmatism and holographic sights are better than reflex for sure.

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK

Red dots are not front sights. You don't focus on the dot like you do with a sight.

When you properly focus on the target, the red dot floating in the middle distance over top of the target is not distorted.

I remember going to a gun show, many, many years ago and a vendor had the then brand new Armson OEG sight, mounted on an AR-15. At the time I simply couldn't grasp the concept of keeping both eyes open and focusing on the target, I was just too accustomed to closing my left eye, when sighting a rifle. Today I would be able to use one. I have found that I do exactly as you say, when looking through the RDS on my AR-15, I keep both eyes open and focus on placing the dot on the target, no matter how near or far.

quote:

LVPO

? Low Variable Power Optic?

I see the OP made up his mind, but for further discussion on "cheap" LPVO, does anyone have experience with one of these?

https://swfa.com/swfa-1-4x24-s...e-30mm-1-mil-clicks/

Too cheap for serious use? I love my 6x42 SS.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:

quote:

LVPO

? Low Variable Power Optic?

It's a misspelling on my part. It's Low Powered Variable Optic, LPVO.

You can try a Holosun 510

The dot is green. That will help with the astigmatism.

https://www.amazon.com/HOLOSUN...e/dp/B079PH36FX?th=1

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:
Sigfreund,
I don't disagree with your logic, but
what good LVPOs are available in the OP's price bracket?

Currently out of stock, but these are excellent.

https://www.eurooptic.com/Burr...a2-91d9-1b93986b0435

I am a big proponent of LPVOs because they really shine in certain conditions where red dots fail.

Low light, obscured targets on the extreme end of expected engagement distances, etc.

IMHO, the only downside is the slight penalty of more weight.

quote:

Originally posted by DoctorSolo:
I see the OP made up his mind, but for further discussion on "cheap" LPVO, does anyone have experience with one of these?

https://swfa.com/swfa-1-4x24-s...e-30mm-1-mil-clicks/

Too cheap for serious use? I love my 6x42 SS.

No not too cheap. That optic is made in Japan and has a good reputation.
I have 1-6 Shepard also made in Japan. Very good quality. So I would say you are good to vs the chicom or Philippines made junk.

Received and am getting ready to mount it. Question: does it turn completely off? The owners manual is silent on this. Disregard. And I have a boresighter. Will this help with sighting in, or waste of time?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,

Is there an off setting on the rotary dial?

As for sighting in..
I don't use bore sighters and I have them.
For an AR I just set up the upper with the BCG out of it and sight down the barrel at a target 50 yards away.
Then dial in the optic to the target.
I'm usually within an inch or so when sighting in.

If it's mechanically zeroed it should be really close to start with.

You can do that, or if your existing iron sights are already sighted in, then you can mount the red dot optic and just adjust the dot to where it sits on the center tip of the front sight post when looking through the rear iron sight (cowitness).

Then shoot to verify/fine tune, if needed.

The on-off switch/adjustment knob comes loose and won't stay on. There is a little tiny set screw that appears to be a hex/Allen or possibly a Torx. Whatever size/type it takes, I haven't got. While I'm waiting for Aimpoint to open so I can call, does anyone know what this takes? I was planning to go to the range tomorrow.

I don’t have an ACO, but the power/setting dial on an Aimpoint CompML3 looks similar to the dial shown in the pictures of the ACO. The set screw of the latter takes a 1.5mm hex driver. I obviously can’t guarantee that that’s what you need, but I suspect it is. I also found that a 1/16 inch driver fits pretty well, and it’s equivalent to 1.59mm.

And I checked an Aimpoint CompM2. The same drivers fit the set screw on its knob as well.

quote:

1.5mm hex driver

That sounds about right, but I don't have it, either at home or my former work.

At what distance should I zero? I'm thinking 100 yards.

There are countless Internet videos discussing the range at which to zero nonmagnifying sights like the ACO. There are pros/cons to any choice, but for relatively close engagements it really doesn’t matter too much for defensive purposes. If one wants the best zero distances for reaching out to extended ranges (e.g., 300 yards) then some research is recommended.

I zero my and my agency’s Aimpoint sights at 50 yards because that point of aim is close to point of impact at 200 yards as well, with a few inches of offset at 100 yards. I’m not concerned about what’s best at longer distances, but some people are, and therefore other zeroing distances may be better. So, as I say, I’d check the videos that discuss the question.