All my red dots are zeroed at 50 yards (we also do that with our issued rifles), same as sigrfeund.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
There are countless Internet videos discussing the range at which to zero nonmagnifying sights like the ACO. There are pros/cons to any choice, but for relatively close engagements it really doesn’t matter too much for defensive purposes. If one wants the best zero distances for reaching out to extended ranges (e.g., 300 yards) then some research is recommended.

I zero my and my agency’s Aimpoint sights at 50 yards because that point of aim is close to point of impact at 200 yards as well, with a few inches of offset at 100 yards.

Pretty much this.

25, 50, and 100 yard zeroes are the most common zeroing distances for an AR with a 1x red dot.

Perhaps counterintuitively, 25 yard is better for longer range, whereas 50 and 100 are better for closer range.

I personally prefer a 100 yard zero, but would have no issue going with a 50 yard zero too. Both allow for a point of impact that's within a couple inches of point of aim, out to any normal defensive distances (<200ish yards). I don't plan on taking shots at 200+ yards with an unmagnified optic or iron sights. The benefit for a 100 yard zero is that for extra precise shots, it's all holdover with no hold under, whereas the 50 yard zero requires you to hold over at certain distances (0-50 and 225+) and hold under at others (50-225).

I wouldn't recommend a 25 yard zero, unless you're planning to also need to engage at 200-400+ yards. This is/was the traditional military M16/M4 zero, but their likelihood of engaging at 200+ yards is significantly higher than a LEO or a homeowner. A 25 yard zero requires significant hold under at mid-ranges. (E.g. aim at the belt buckle to achieve hits at center mass)

Note that, regardless of which zero distance you want, you can find and print adjusted zero targets that will allow you to zero at a 25 yard range but achieve a 50 or 100 yard zero (and then confirm/fine tune at 50/100 when you get a chance)

Just got off the phone with Aimpoint. I went through the phone "tree" to get a real person, but he answered without hesitation that the set screw size/drive is T6 (Torx). I think I have one at my former work. Unless under magnification like an eye loupe, it is difficult to tell those tiny Torx from hex.

quote:

posted by RogueJSK: I personally prefer a 100 yard zero, but would have no issue going with a 50 yard zero too. Both allow for a point of impact that's within a couple inches of point of aim, out to any normal defensive distances (<200ish yards).

I'm having a little trouble understanding that chart. 16-inch barrel and M193, if zeroed at 50 yards, where would it hit at 25 or 100? Any meaningful difference in POI between M193 and M855?

An easy answer to the zeroing question is the question " what is the longest range you have regular access to?". If all you have is a 25 yard range, It'll be easiest to do a 25 yard zero. If you have a 50 yard range, ue 50 yards. If you have more than that, use the closer distance I.E. for a 50/250 zero use 50 and then verify the POI at 250. Out beyond 100 yards or so, it become more difficult to spot the hits without high magnification or walking.

You could do a 1000 inch zero, but that's adding extra work.

The most important thing about a zero is that you know what your zero is, and what your hold under and hold overs are. There are tables available for most of the common zeros 25,50, 200, etc., but it' best to shoot the different distances and see what the hold overs/unders are.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: CD228,

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
I'm having a little trouble understanding that chart. 16-inch barrel and M193, if zeroed at 50 yards, where would it hit at 25 or 100? Any meaningful difference in POI between M193 and M855?

With a a 50 yard zero, you'd be a smidge over 1 inch low at 25 yards, and around 1.5 inches high at 100 yards.



As you can see, the POI difference between M193 and M855 is negligible. A tenth of an inch or so past 100ish yards.

quote:

Originally posted by CD228:
If all you have is a 25 yard range, It'll be easiest to do a 25 yard range. Ig you have a 50 yard range, ue 50 yards.

Not necessarily. As I mentioned, you can zero for 50 or 100 on just a 25 yard range. You just need an adjusted zero target, which are widely available online. Like the one like shown below. You aim at the top (color) bullseye, and adjust your sight to where the rounds impact on the bottom (gray) bullseye. You now have a 50 yard zero, by shooting at 25 yards.



Or for an even simpler example:



Even if you have access to a longer range, it's helpful to start at 25 with one of these adjusted targets, as it makes initial zeroing quicker and easier with the closer target where your impacts are easier to see. Then just confirm and fine tune with another target at the true 50/100 yards.

(You can save these images and just print either one of these targets at home. Be sure to use the "fit to page" option when printing the image, so it takes up the whole 8.5x11 sheet of paper and the dimensions are correct.)

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
the set screw size/drive is T6 (Torx)

That’s good to know.
I did, however, check the screw in the CompML3 with some serious magnification, and the hole is definitely a hexagon. Interestingly, though, I also checked it with a T6 bit and it fit well and snugly. I wouldn’t use the Torx bit on my screws, but it would evidently work fine.

Arma dynamics had a good chart showing impacts at different zeros.

^^^ That is an easier visualization.