As I’ve often posted, I am a firm fan of Tikka rifles. What I prefer, though, are the models that use the staggered-column 10 round metal magazines rather than the more common polymer mags, and that includes the Compact Tactical Rifle (CTR) models. I have CTR models in 223 Remington and 308 Winchester, and when I ran across a listing for a CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor on the EuroOptic site, how could I resist?





The one I purchased has a 24 inch barrel, and in retrospect I wondered if the 20" would have been handier to use, but then “handier” for what purpose? If this 80-YO bod ever has to hump a rifle up the pass to repel the hordes from Denver, it won’t be this one. I would have also chosen a black stock and stainless barrel if they had been options, but the gun is distinctive in its supplied dress. (In fact, if you’re having trouble seeing it in the photo, it is there. )

The scope is a Nightforce ATACR 7-35×56mm in a Spuhr mount. The scope was a spare I had on hand, and at some point I may change it for something more in the line of 5-25, 3.6-18, etc., with more generous eyebox. But maybe not.

The modifications: I removed the black forend cover as unnecessary and attached a Salmon River Solutions rail that can be used with Picatinny or Arca-Swiss attachments. I will probably never need the former, but I already had the rail and the Pic section is no drawback. I also switched the grip from the original black to a sort-of green one that was on the otherwise all-black stock of the 308 CTR. A Warne adapter at the rear allows mounting a BT Industries folding grip when shooting from a bench. The Thunder Beast suppressor is attached to their CB muzzle brake via a direct thread.

I was able to get to the range today and it took four shots to get on paper because the scope had previously been mounted on a Winchester 52E, and significant adjustments were necessary.

I then fired this group using a Ckye-Pod bipod and rear bag on a sturdy bench at 100 yards. Ammunition was Hornady 147 grain ELD Match, a load that’s generally very precise in my other 6.5 rifles. The average velocity of 23 shots was 2653 fps with a standard deviation of 21.5 fps; that’s not fantastic for long range shooting, but no biggie at 100 yards.





The four shots touching measured 0.251 inch (yes 1/4"!) center to center, but of course I couldn’t hold all five perfectly the same. The shot to the left opened the group to 0.560" CTC, and I can honestly claim that I knew it was going there when the shot broke. In any event the Tikka guarantee is 1 MOA or less with five shots from the tactical models, and this group obviously met that standard.*

The session included a set of 1.5" dots using a tripod for support while standing, and there were no failures to feed (what the magazine does), chamber, extract, or eject. As always the bolt cycled Tikka-smoothly.

I’m not sure what actual purpose this rifle serves, but I’m happy once again, and I don’t believe that the Commirado Gestapo will be kicking my door in to seize this one.
Not this week, anyway.

* As always, a single small-sample size group does not prove anything, but I posted it to show how the first session went.

Added: The trigger pull weight was 2 pounds, 12 ounces. I have been drifting to preferring lighter pulls in precision rifles, but although it is easy to adjust the pull in Tikka T3x rifles, I will leave it as is for the time being.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund,

Looks good sigfreund.

I was doing great resisting the 6.5 Creedmoor bandwagon but I finally succumbed a year ago. I have old and then a modern CZ in 6.5 Swede, thought that was good enough.

I bought the 16.5” Howa lightweight rifle, now the main host of my suppressor. I got the shorter barrel with the suppressor in mind, keeping length reasonable.

quote:

Originally posted by sourdough44:
keeping length reasonable.

Yeah, with this setup if I can’t shoot holes in the target, I’ll just tape a pencil to the can like a bayonet and poke the holes there.

I had the best luck with 147s in my factory Tikka 6.5 barrel. 2670fps was an accuracy node with anywhere from 0.010 to 0.030 off the lands.

My favorite local dealer showed me a Tikka rifle some years ago, going on and on about how smoothly the bolt moved and what a great rifle it was. I ended up buying something else he had, but often wanted to go back for that Tikka. I regret not making the opportunity to do that before he closed the shop.

I still want a Tikka, simply because of his enthusiasm for the brand.

Very nice. I absolutely bonded with my T3X CTR 6.5 20” great shooter. I ended up also getting the T1X as well. VERY happy with both of them.

quote:

Originally posted by Bob RI:
I ended up also getting the T1X as well.

I shoot my T1x so much that the rest look at me with sad eyes and ask, “What’s wrong with me?”

NICE! Tikka’s are SWEET!

Off the top of my head I can’t remember the vendors name but there’s a sub $10 Spring for Tikka’s that will lower your pull by a safe, smooth pound or two. Or if you have a Mic and a Brownells spring stock kit you can cut your own. Makes a worthy improvement.

If you reload I would suggest you try Superformance powder and 130gr Berger VLD Hunting bullets. I’ve had VERY good ballistic results with this combo in multiple 6.5 Creeds. The Hogden annual manuals have safe, pressure tested Data to work with. My Sako and Tikka 6.5 Creedmoors have had extra long throats so you might experiment with your seating depths for superb accuracy.

Nice rifle and great shooting 80% of the time!


LOL I’m notorious for getting excited and pulling the last shot.

quote:

Originally posted by djpaintles:
NICE! Tikka’s are SWEET!

Off the top of my head I can’t remember the vendors name but there’s a sub $10 Spring for Tikka’s that will lower your pull by a safe, smooth pound or two. Or if you have a Mic and a Brownells spring stock kit you can cut your own. Makes a worthy improvement.
.

https://erniethegunsmith.com/ ?

I have one of his springs in each of my three M70. They work great.

Thanks for the link about the trigger springs. I actually bought a couple/few from Mountain Tactical, but then it dawned on me that I could adjust the pull weight with the factory screw. I did that with other rifles, and now with this one. The last time I measured the pull weight it was right at 3 pounds, and somewhat inconsistent.

My 2 pound free weight pull gauge trips the trigger, but because that’s the lightest weight in the set it’s possible that the pull weight is somewhat less. I now believe that for sure it’s light enough.

Another thought about the 24 inch barrel with a 9 inch can attached. I’m still not really concerned about the “handiness” of the setup, but I do have another consideration now.

I shoot most precision rifle drills while standing or kneeling with the gun mounted on a tripod, and the hardest motion to control is the lateral, side to side movement, although up/down must obviously also be dampened as well. It occurred to me that the longer the barrel, the longer the lever arm of the system, and the more difficult it is to control its movement. The weight of the can out at the end makes things worse.

So, I’m now planning to have the barrel shortened to either 20 or 18 inches. The velocity loss isn’t a major concern and based on what I can find, the difference between those two lengths isn’t huge, so I’m tending toward 18. Muzzle blast is a consideration, especially with certain loads, but the gun will usually be used with a suppressor and some hearing protection ….

In my prior experience Thunder Beast does good work with such jobs and for a reasonable price; hopefully I won’t be disappointed this time.

If anyone has any comments before the rifle goes off next week, please chime in.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund,

A longer rifle might oscillate more around a central pivot point. A heavier rifle might oscillate at a slower rate and stabilize more easily. A lighter rifle might oscillate at a higher rate, and might be more easily disturbed by wind or shooter inputs.

A longer barrel produces "free" muzzle velocity. Which results in less wind drift and reduces elevation issues for miscalculations in target distance.

All good points to consider. Thanks.
The one that I can say does not really matter to me is the higher velocities from longer barrels as virtually all of my shooting is at 200 yards or less (lack of opportunity, mostly). I have other rifles that are better suited for long range use if that ever becomes possible.

I shoot at small targets so marksmanship issues are what are most important.