A course of fire I’ve been enjoying recently and is, I believe, helping me with rifle shooting fundamentals is to load up my Ruger 77/22 magazine with 10 rounds and try to knock over 10 sort-of egg-sized targets* with no misses.




I was shooting at 50 yards from the prone until I decided that was too easy and went to 75 yards and an elevated kneeling position.




The elevated position using tripod at front and bipod (shooting sticks) at rear evolved from guidance that forum member offgrid gave me some time ago. The tripod is topped with a cradle that supports the rifle but allows a wide range of motion, unlike the fixed clamp type. (I had one of the clamp type, but sold it because I didn’t like it much.)

For the photo the rifle stock is resting on the Y cradle at the top of the shooting sticks, and that’s how I originally used the sticks in conjunction with the front tripod. In time, though, I found that although resting the stock on the Y cradle was steady, getting set up and everything adjusted just right like that was tricky and time consuming. It was also very difficult to recover back to that position for follow-up shots after the recoil from a centerfire rifle.

I next saw several Precision Rifle Series shooters use tripods at the rear that they grasped while holding the stock in position against a leg. I tried that technique myself, but again discovered that positioning the tripod just right was difficult. My latest technique is to use the tripod at the front, and at the rear I grasp and hold together a leg of the shooting sticks and the monopod that’s extended down with my support hand. Doing it like that allows quick aiming adjustments through a wide range of motion and is still very stable. The shooting sticks bipod is also much easier to position and move if necessary than a tripod.

I shot the 10-target course several times today and from the elevated position most strings resulted in seven to eight hits. I managed a few 10 hit clean runs and they were very satisfying because of their rarity.

The course is similar in some ways to the dot drills other members have described, and especially in its test of the shooter’s concentration and focus and use of fundamentals. It’s more fun, though, to watch those steel eggs flipping through the air from a good hit. And walking down and back to reset the targets is good exercise.

The rifle is a Ruger 77/22 with Lilja barrel, Leupold 6.5-20× Extended Focal Range scope, and B&T Industries monopod. Ammunition was Wolf “Match Target” which runs about 1.5 MOA for me. Manfrotto tripod and modified Cabela’s shooting sticks.


* https://www.amazon.com/Quality...ARGETS/dp/B00ISE0LYK

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund,

That does seem like a good fundamentals drill.

We would often do the 10/40 drill with rimfires, and it was always a good time. (For cheapskates like me)

We drill ten evenly spaced 3/16 holes in a two-by-four, and then put those cheap Dum Dum suckers, the kind you can get in a large bag around Halloween, in the holes.

The goal then was to bust all 10 from the bench with 10 shots of 22LR from 40 yards. You wouldn't think a micro-cloud of sugar dust would be so exciting, but those hits were very rewarding.

I don't know that I ever got all 10. I did notice if I missed the first one, my entire string was off because you spend the remainder of the time knowing you can't get them all. I also noticed if I got 7 or 8 in a row, the last few shots would be off as I got cocky/excited about the prospects of getting all 10 and had a tendency to be a little more impulsive with the trigger.

Sounds easy, but it's harder than you might think. A good exercise nonetheless.

quote:

Originally posted by bionic218:
I did notice if I missed the first one, my entire string was off because you spend the remainder of the time knowing you can't get them all. I also noticed if I got 7 or 8 in a row, the last few shots would be off as I got cocky/excited about the prospects of getting all 10 and had a tendency to be a little more impulsive with the trigger.

Yes, the psychology of shooting a difficult course of fire for a goal (e.g., 10 hits in a row) has long interested me. Does an early miss make the rest easier because the pressure is less, or worse because I know I’ve screwed up and need to concentrate more? Does the pressure increase with a good initial string because I don’t want to ruin it, or am I more likely to think, “Yeah, I’ve got this; oops, no, I didn’t”?

Competitors deal with that sort of thing all the time, but I don’t shoot Don’t miss! strings very often and haven’t become accustomed to it as much.

That looks like a solid challenge. One that I've encountered in recent NRL-22-type matches at my local club is called "Know Your Limits."



2" on the left, down to .25" on the right. You start with the 2-inch and keep shooting. 10 pts per target hit. 90 seconds on the timer to do so. This particular instance had you kneeling and shooting from the top of a 55-gallon-sized plastic barrel.

IF you miss, however, you lose all your points. So, you go until things get uncomfortable or you just aren't "feeling" it.

Both "The Omelet Course" and the "Know Your Limits" look like great fun.

sigfreund, thanks for posting the source for the egg targets.

I need to get my 10/22 out for some exercise.

You could intersperse silhouette chickens between the eggs, so people can ask ... well, you know ...


Interesting that target 6 seems to be as elusive as target 8 on the "Know Your Limits".

This message has been edited. Last edited by: RichardC,

Some of the most fun I’ve had in the last year is with my dads home brew know your limits target @ 50 and 100 yards. The Cz 457 and Lapua Center-X makes it too easy at 50 but at 100 it’s all about fundamentals. Eggs (real eggs) are fun too. We have set them and little army men out to 300 yards to see who gets bragging rights.

Sounds like some NRL22 matches would be right up your alley! I enjoy shooting them ( not very well most of the time!) a great challenge
I like harkening back to my service rifle roots and shoot a lot of these targets from standing sitting kneeling and prone with only the support of a sling.

The original post was from almost three years ago, so I decided to describe a different version of the omelet course using the steel eggs.

First, the newest version of the rifle. It is shown for shooting in the prone position, and the drill I’m describing can be fired from the prone, but I’m more comfortable standing and using a tripod (at the front) and shooting sticks (at the rear) for support. The scope is 7-35×56 and capable of being focused to about 10 yards.





This version of the omelet drill is different in that the steel eggs are set up at random unknown distances from the shooter. Because the targets are at unknown distances the first requirement is to determine the range, and that’s part of the challenge of this version of the drill, which is to estimate the range using a calibrated reticle rather than something like a laser rangefinder.*

To use the calibration markings of my scope’s reticle with my rifle and ammunition, I prepared this dope chart.





The “egg size” columns are values that we obtain when looking at the targets and seeing how much of the reticle they cover. E.g., when a target was placed at 50 yards, the top “egg” part covered 1.1 mils from top to bottom and the entire target including its base is 1.3 mils high. That of course means if I check a target at an unknown distance and see that the entire thing is 1.3 ₥ high, that means its distance is 50 yards. The reason I have two sizes listed is because sometimes it’s easier to see just the top egg portion, and sometimes measuring the entire height is easier and more accurate.

After determining the range to the target, the “Dope” column indicates the aiming adjustment that’s necessary. If, for example, the entire target including its base measured 0.7 ₥ high, the range would be 90 yards and would require dialing or holding up about 1.3+ mils. The dope data are obtained by test firing at different distances or using a ballistic solver and the inputs for our ammunition, sight height, and zero distance (in my case the rifle and ammunition are zeroed at 50 yards).

Today I set the targets from 40 to about 90 yards, and my best string was nine hits for 10 shots.

I realize that all this is somewhat involved and the drill is not something everyone can shoot. It’s necessary to have a scope with a calibrated reticle, either in milliradians or minutes of angle, good tracking reliability, and ability to be focused as close as the nearest target. The maximum magnification should be high enough for precise aiming at the relatively small targets. The rifle and ammo should also be precise enough to be sufficiently accurate at the longest target range. If we have all that, though, it’s fun and challenging and may be worth your time and effort to try.

* As an aside, I’ve seen opinions that using a calibrated reticle to estimate target distance these days is “Oh, so pre-rangefinder” as to be not worth the trouble, not to mention being of marginal accuracy. But some of us like to have backup methods to rely on, and this is a way of practicing a different method. Plus, using the reticle is part of the fun of the drill as well as testing our ability to use an older method like the snipers of yesteryear.

Rangefinding via FFP reticles is an interesting exercise. I've done it in training, practice, and matches. I will do just about anything to avoid reticle rangefinding again. I have 3 LRF devices.

For precision steel matches, some competitors find a different type of chart more useful -- one that indicates target width in wind speed. JBM data using 1100 fps MV, a 40 grain Lapua match bullet with G1 .134 BC, 8000 feet DA.

at 50 yards the egg width is 1.1 mils. 10 mph wind drift is .5 mils. At this distance, the "wind drift width" is 22 mph. Hold on the left edge, and in theory a hit will occur with an effective wind from of the left of 0 to 22 mph.

At 70 yards the egg width is .8 mils. 10 mph wind drift is .7 mils. "Wind drift width" of 11 mph.

At 100 yards the egg width is .5 mils. 10 mph wind drift is 1.0 mils. "Wind drift width" of 5 mph. Wind calls better be pretty close.

*****
I started using this method after discussing how offgrid and Alpine shot the Raton sporting rifle match, and as the Raton match director began reducing target sizes as winning scores continued to improve. This "wind width" method helped me to win a couple of matches there.

For example, there's a testy Raton stage with targets almost in a straight line. The first 3 targets are small (1.5-ish MOA at most) at 250-350 yards, and somewhat protected from the normal left-to-right winds by trees. The next 3 targets are larger (1.5 to 2 MOA), but at distances of 400-600 yards, and more open to the left-to-right winds rolling up the canyon. If the breezes aren't too bad, we normally hold the left edge of the first 2 targets. Then we calculate wind drift speeds by impact locations on targets or dirt. In one match, the 5th target had minimal hits, with guys in our squad figuring wind to be anywhere from 5 to 12 mph. IIRC, the target was about 4 MPH wide by my gun. So I held 5 mph of wind on the left edge of that target, and impacted just right of center.

When I have lots of time per shot on a stage, this is my preferred wind hold method. When time is tight -- like most stages -- then I just hold center of target with my best wind speed guess.

Thanks for the wind discussion, fritz. I have developed my own method of determining wind holds, but yours would, I believe, be more useful for this type of drill. I’ll have to try it. Thus far I’ve just WAGed most holds based on a general feel for what’s happening.

For the first time I also set up a wind vane at 50 yards and found it useful to at least determine the direction of the wind. Where I shoot the wind usually changes direction frequently and I often find it difficult to decide what direction it’s coming from. I’d like to avoid using the vane, but I believe it will be useful in educating me about what different “feels” mean. That, of course, completely ignores the fact that I can feel a wind where I am and see that it’s dead calm 50 yards downrange.

Years ago, one rifle match at Raton was run by a different director. Surveyor's tape streamers were placed on the target leg stands, which acted as wind flags at the POI. Hit rates were higher than normal at that match.

Later that summer I trained with Frank Galli, who operates the Sniper's Hide website. The course was held at what was the T2 Ranch, in north-eastern Colorado. We discussed wind flags and wind calls. Frank stated that we shooters must decide how we want to shoot. If we want wind flags, then go play the bench rest game. We'll get wind flags. We'll get a nice stable, flat concrete bench to shoot from. We'll get to use a geared mechanical front rest to support the rifle. We'll get to use a leather bunny-eared rear bag filled with 10 pounds of shot or sand. We'll get to align the rifle to the target, walk away, and the sights will still be on target when we return. We'll get to shoot free-recoil with many cartridges, so we won't be bothered with managing the fundamentals of marksmanship.

Or, said Frank, we can learn to shoot our rifles with the tools nature gives us. Wind indicators of grass, leaves, bushes, and trees. Wind blows dust, snow, rain, cottonwood seeds, insects, and pollen. Wind flows with terrain, and its speed increases as we increase height from the ground. Wind produces mirage in our scopes. Our scopes allow us to spot bullet trace, and the resulting deflection from wind.

I will admit to using a short piece of surveyor's tape on my spotting/shooting tripod, which serves as a wind indicator at the shooting location. Other than that, it's all about learning to call the wind. The PRS guys from Oklahoma understand wind quite well.

wasn't there a group in NC years ago that did a real egg (real as in hanging real chicken eggs) at distance and doing a fun shoot?

seem to recall that from the old Precision Shooting magazine

Fritz, your experience with Frank Galli certainly raises important questions for me, as I think about actually using my stuff as opposed to reading about it.
Benchrest as described is certainly artificial; Galli’s method more interesting to me although with a steeper learning curve.
We’re in the process of moving, and I will be closer to a couple of good outdoor ranges that will be much more convenient than the current one which is an hour away. And since I’ve lived there before I will have shooting buddies already.