I definitely want higher magnification, at least 20x. I don’t plan on hunting with it, just a paper killer! As of right now I’m thinking I’d like to keep the budget south of $500, unless you can talk me into more. I’ve been looking at Arken Optics, Athlon, and Vortex. I have no experience with the first two, but own a few Vortex products and have been happy with them. On a side note, I’ve used the Vortex warranty once, and it was 1st class. I’m open to other brands, and I’m not afraid of a used optic. Won’t be used in any competition settings, just fun!

The most popular base class optic in nrl22 is athlon and that says something in a precision driven sport hard on equipment

My personal nrl22 rifle has an athlon- the lower but not lowest tier version I bought it for 300 bucks on Walmart.com up to 24 power ( though most use is at 12-15) tracks and repeats well, and in nrl you turn turrets multiple times in most stages

Make certain your scope has adjustable parallax capabilities. A fixed parallax setting is just about the worst feature you can have on a rimfire scope. Minimum parallax distance must be no greater than 50 yards. It's much better to have parallax adjustable down to 15 to 25 yards.

Make certain your scope has the elevation turret adjustability to dial to the farthest distances you intend to shoot, and then more. You don't want to be using the scope's entire elevation capabilities when shooting your normal range of targets. With a 50 yard zero, expect to dial elevation of 25 MOA to get to 200 yards.

Do not buy a scope with a BDC reticle. Just don't do it. Ixnay BDC reticles.

Go with reticle types/styles that you are already comfy with. It's better if you limit the transition issues when going from one rifle to another.

Consider glass clarity over magnification. Even 200 yards is a long shot for 22lr. 15x picks up some pretty tiny targets at that distance. A clear scope at 15x provides better vision than a muddy scope at 25x. Depending on scope brand & product lines, consider going up in product lines but choosing a scope with lower magnification.

It's best to touch, feel, and look through a scope before buying it. If possible, visit as many local gun stores as possible. Go to ranges and competitions -- ask to take a look through various scopes.

I have an Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50 on my Bergara. Using a 20MOA base with a 50yrd zero, I had to dial 17.x mils to get to a 376yrd 18”x24” or so steel target. That’s about the useable range of dial in my setup. I’ve been told I should get a 30 or even 40 MOA base, which I’ll probably do this summer. It’s not as nice or clear as a Nightforce NX8, ATACR or Vortex Razor but good for me for now.

Adjustable parallax is vital like fritz said. Going from even a 50yd to 100yd target it’s surprised me how much difference there is.

Lots of folks shooting the Athlon or Votex PST II scopes. At the local NRL matches.

Ok…..so I’ve been looking some more, and ran across this…

Vortex Strike Eagle 4x24x50, 80 mills of elevation, and side parallax adj down to 20 yards. Original MSRP was $699, but have been discontinued for a bit. Looks like eurooptic has them on close out for $299

Talk me out of it!

https://www.eurooptic.com/Vort...ope-SE-1627-Kit.aspx

quote:

Originally posted by pepsiblue:
Vortex Strike Eagle 4x24x50, 80 mills of elevation, and side parallax adj down to 20 yards. Original MSRP was $699, but have been discontinued for a bit. Looks like eurooptic has them on close out for $299

Not the type of scope I want.
- Second focal plane. Almost all of my scopes are first focal plane. With SFP the reticle is useful for elevation and windage holds at only one magnification level.
- I don't see any reference to a zero stop on the elevation turret. Given the relatively small 12 MOA per turret revolution, a zero stop is very important.

I wouldn't buy it. But it depends on what you want to do with your rifle.

FYI, the elevation is 80 MOA, not 80 mils

Thanks for your input fritz….. do you have any experience with the Athlon or Arken scopes?

quote:

Originally posted by pepsiblue:
do you have any experience with the Athlon or Arken scopes?

A local shooter bought an Athlon scope, shortly after they came out. I fondled it on his gun. Clear & bright glass. Reasonable reticle. Turret feel was good. IIRC the elevation controls crapped out during a match, and he ditched the scope.

On to a couple of years later, shooting the breeze between stages with guys in my squad. One guy stated he had an Athlon, but the elevation controls crapped out in a match. He was using a different brand scope at the time, but I don't remember what it was. Athlon scopes won't be found in my safe.

I've never seen an Arken scope. Don't know of anyone who owns one.

If it means anything to you, research where scopes are made. Components sources, assembly locations.

Many years ago, I thought I would never spend more than a few hundred dollars on an optic. As I began to increasingly rely on the features of a scope for precision shooting, my acceptable scope budgets rose to 50% -- then 75% -- of the cost of a rifle. I now have no issues spending as much (or more) on a scope as the rifle itself. As a result, I own fewer rifles, but I have better rifle systems. YMMV

I just ordered an Arken 4-16x50 with an MOA reticle.
I've never seen one but it seems to get good reviews and was what I was looking at when I thought I'd save a few bucks with a Vortex.

Use the code and the combo pack is free which has a scope mount or rings with it.
The mount is a 20 MOA cant, which I don't think I'll really need and may end up getting a Midwest Industries one.

Rex has used Arken's a bunch and has a couple reviews on them.
His latest one pretty much sealed it for me.

I have an Athlon Ares BTR. A lot of people have had good luck with them. I'm not a fan. I had to send it back after two range visits with the elevation knob spinning with no change in point of impact. I boxed it up and sent it back. The problem was fixed. Then the windage ring (that shows the zero position) came loose the next time to the range and zeroing. I called customer service and they said I could super glue it back or send it in if I was not comfortable doing it. WTF? I told them I thought that was a piss poor fix and a better method should be used and the guy said that's what they were going to do if I returned it. The glass was clear, but the reticle is a little thick in the center for precision work, it also more frequent battery replacement as compared to other manufacturer illumination. I have been paying the extra money for better quality brands going forward.
I have Vortex products and only had one problem on a Viper PST and their customer service is top notch. I've never had issues with my Burris XTRIII or my Sightron products which are similar in price point (Sightron, not the Burris XTRIII).

I just got in an Arken 4-16x50.

Seems to be a nice scope for the money.
The first thing I noticed is that I don't need glasses to see the reticle clear.
That's a plus for me as my Bi-focals are a PITA and I was using an old pair of readers.
And with the rather large numbers on the turrets I can see them without glasses.

34mm tube, so there is a ton of usable elevation, way more than I can use.
I got the one piece mount which has a 20 MOA cant, so that gives it another 20 MOA.

The turrets have pretty snappy clicks and adjust for zero and the zero stop real easy.

The VPR reticle is a dot and cross which seems easy to pick up.

The illumination is not very bright but the switch does have an off position between the settings.

$399 with the combo pack.
Covers, mount, throw lever, bubble and a rear bag.



I believe the 6-24x50 is $499