I'm researching a new rifle. Here are my current criteria:

• Able to shoot accurately to what I'm thinking are "mid"-ranges - up to 1000 yards.
• Although I'll mostly use it at shorter ranges (100-300), as that's what's available to me in my current location.
  
• The rifle will shoot better than I can. So it will be something I can grow into.
  
• I'm in a position that I can spend a few bucks. Not overly constrained by price.
  
• Calibers preferred: .300WM, .300PRC (preferred). I'll also probably reload. Thought about .338 Lapua (hey, bigger is better, right?), but I really don't "need" that.
  
• Would prefer a caliber that won't go through barrels overly fast. Hence no .338 Lapua.
  
• I will not be shooting competitions. I'm more of a solo guy.
  
• I'll probably be punching holes in paper, not shooting steel.
  

I'm Jonesing at a Barrett MRAD. Looked at AI AXMC, but that's a significant jump in budget.. Here's the configuration I'm at:

• MRAD in .300WM or .300PRC
  
• Nightforce ATACR 7-35X56 FFP scope (not sure MOA or MRAD reticle)
  
• Atlas bipod
  

I'm leaning towards a factory-built vs. custom-built, although I hear people say I can get more for my money by going custom. That brings a whole new level to research and questions.

Thoughts?

I've lots of choices in the calibers I own but the one caliber I hate is 300 win mag, even though I have lots of stuff in it. Not sure why given your list we even consider it anymore for hitting paper. Get an MRAD in 6.5 and be happy.

Have you seen this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILrdEcCRWWA

Thanks for the video link. Looks like a solid contender.

Well for almost all of us. Not all. Money is an object.
I have .300 win. mag. .300 wsm. and a .338 win mag. They are configured for hunting mostly. If I put different glass on them I could reach out to 1000 yds and make hits. Not precision but with practice I could do fine.
I would need to spend close to $2000 in a glass upgrade to do so though.

So if tactical is your desire you are going to be into some very series money. If not, you may be able to do it for about $3k minimum. Still serious money for a lot of us.

As far as Caliber. Nothing wrong with the .300 win mag or short mag either.

Good luck

It's not that money isn't an object. It's that I've been saving for quite a while and now have enough to seriously consider something in the class of the MRAD with NF optics.

I'd also look at the SAKO TRG 42A1. With the current sale at Eurooptic it's in the MRAD price range:

https://www.eurooptic.com/Sako...-Rifle-JRSWA631.aspx

I'm actually talking to the folks at EuroOptics. They seem like a great bunch.

Due to PA's lockdown status, it will likely be a month or two at the soonest until I can get there to pick it up, if I go with them.

Yes I've purchased several rifles and optics from EuroOptic and have always had great experiences with them.

If you really want an MRAD for the name recognition of the etchings on the receiver, then just go ahead and buy one. Barrett makes decent rifles. You'll end up paying for the name -- money that doesn't need to be spent for a range toy. I must also state that the video promoting the MRAD shows some uninspiring shooting, especially for someone who is supposed to be a talented sniper.

The MRAD's barrel change feature is cool. The possibility of it being practical and useful for the average civilian is about zero. The going price for a new MRAD appears to be about $6k. More accurate rifles built from chosen components can cost $1k to $2k less. If you don't have trusted and talented gunsmith nearby, contact Sigforum member jelrod1 for ideas.

300 WM, 300 PRC, and 338LM are beasts to shoot repeatedly. Their recoil demands well-developed fundamentals of marksmanship in order to shoot accurately, especially as distances increase. IMO these are not rifles for 100-300 yards, and they only begin to become practical at 1,000 yards.

The venerable 308 Win does really well out to 600 yards, even 800 yards in the many conditions. 1000 yards with a 308 is challenging, unless in thin air and limited wind. At distances out to 1,000 yards, the 6mm (.243) and 6.5mm (.260) bores work very well. Great accuracy, substantially less recoil, dramatically improved ability for the shooter to see his own shots, lower cost per round.

If you shoot steel targets at 100-300 yards with .30-cal or .338-cal magnums, your steel won't last long, regardless of steel quality or thickness. Too much energy on target at such a short distance. You will find that accuracy on paper at short distances with .30-cal and .338-cal magnums will be challenging. Probably frustrating.

Every barrel is different, every shooter sends rounds down range differently. But let's assume your target shooting is 5-6 round strings in 2-3 minutes, and maybe 8-10 round strings in 4-5 minutes. Maybe sometimes a little faster, meaning you get the barrel hot now and then. Now if you shoot slower than this, your barrel will stay cooler and its throat will last longer. Let's also assume you demand consistent 1 MOA accuracy or better, all the way out to 1,000 yards.

300WM and 300PRC barrels may last 1200-1800 rounds under the above shooting scenarios. Maybe less. Of course if you're willing to put up with reduced accuracy, reduced muzzle velocity, and lower-than-expected impacts at distance, then barrel life will be higher.

338LM barrels should see 2000-2500 rounds. Contrary to your OP statement, 338LM isn't the worst barrel burner.

243 Win, 6 Creedmoor, 6x47 barrels should last 1500-1800 rounds.

260 Remy, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5x47 barrels should go 2500-3500 rounds. After retiring two 6.5CM barrels, I feel 3000 rounds is about right.

308 Win should go at least 5000 rounds. Maybe 6000-7000 if you get a great barrel and baby it.

The NF 7-35x is among the best tactical-type scopes on the market. MOA vs mil reticle depends on how you prefer to calculate elevation and windage dope. Both are angular measuring systems. MOA reticles tend to be simple and clean -- some people like this, others not so much. NF's mil reticles are considered so-so by many shooters, but some think they are good.

fritz,

Thanks so much for your reply. I've been lurking in the "Long Range Rifle" discussion the past few months, and have really appreciated your posts, as well as sigfreund's and offgrid's (as well as every one else's). I've also lurked in NikonUser's Riflescope Primer. The depth of knowledge is simply amazing.

I was misunderstanding the .338LM barrel life. Thanks for the correction. As well as expectations for other calibers.

My problem (challenge?) with the custom built option is the sheer volume of choices out there. I'm not nearly knowledgable enough to narrow the field. I may ping jelrod1. I'm currently located in SC, next to Augusta GA.

Choices for custom builds can be overwhelming, but it isn't that bad if you break it down systematically. A great 'smith like jelrod1 can help.

The core of your rifle will be action, barrel, and stock system. Plus the trigger of your choice.

Possible actions:
Defiance, Big Horn, Impact, AI, Surgeon, Kelbly's, BAT. There are others, too.

Possible barrels:
Bartlein, Krieger, Proof, Hawk Hill, Rock Creek. and others

Your stock depends on type -- traditional vs modular is the start in your choice. Be certain the stock adjusts for length of pull and cheek rest height. I like traditional-type Manners & McMillan stocks, but many other shooters don't.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
Choices for custom builds can be overwhelming, but it isn't that bad if you break it down systematically. A great 'smith like jelrod1 can help.

The core of your rifle will be action, barrel, and stock system. Plus the trigger of your choice.

Possible actions:
Defiance, Big Horn, Impact, AI, Surgeon, Kelbly's, BAT. There are others, too.

Possible barrels:
Bartlein, Krieger, Proof, Hawk Hill, Rock Creek. and others

Your stock depends on type -- traditional vs modular is the start in your choice. Be certain the stock adjusts for length of pull and cheek rest height. I like traditional-type Manners & McMillan stocks, but many other shooters don't.

I agree, I have a custom in the works and originally was going to just buy another factory rifle because it was so overwhelming but have a buddy who gave me a list to start with and became pretty easy.

quote:

Originally posted by IntrepidTraveler:
I'm researching a new rifle. Here are my current criteria:

• Able to shoot accurately to what I'm thinking are "mid"-ranges - up to 1000 yards.
• Although I'll mostly use it at shorter ranges (100-300), as that's what's available to me in my current location.
  
• The rifle will shoot better than I can. So it will be something I can grow into.
  
• I'm in a position that I can spend a few bucks. Not overly constrained by price.
  
• Calibers preferred: .300WM, .300PRC (preferred). I'll also probably reload. Thought about .338 Lapua (hey, bigger is better, right?), but I really don't "need" that.
  
• Would prefer a caliber that won't go through barrels overly fast. Hence no .338 Lapua.
  
• I will not be shooting competitions. I'm more of a solo guy.
  
• I'll probably be punching holes in paper, not shooting steel.
  

I'm Jonesing at a Barrett MRAD. Looked at AI AXMC, but that's a significant jump in budget.. Here's the configuration I'm at:

• MRAD in .300WM or .300PRC
  
• Nightforce ATACR 7-35X56 FFP scope (not sure MOA or MRAD reticle)
  
• Atlas bipod
  

I'm leaning towards a factory-built vs. custom-built, although I hear people say I can get more for my money by going custom. That brings a whole new level to research and questions.

Thoughts?

IMHO for your purposes you are considering cartridges that are too large.

More expensive ammo and more recoil are not helpful for putting in a lot of range time.

I would consider a chassis gun in 6.5 Creedmoor or 6mm Creedmoor based on your criteria.


You should check out precision rifle blog. Has some good information in there about what kind of rifles guys are using.

As mentioned, custom builds give YOU a choice of actions, barrels (contour, twist and length), chamberings, triggers and stocks/chassis but...depending on your selection of components, they can take time to build. Manners and McMillan stocks can be found in stock with some vendors BUT not all will work with the action you may choose. If you have to order a stock, it could take 6-8 months before your gunsmith receives it. This means that a custom build with a stock could take 6-12 month to complete. A chassis will cut the time down some but again, it's a choice you have to make.

On the other hand, there are several good factory rifles out there that will shoot 0.5 MOA and can have you shooting in a matter of days.

Just things to consider...

I would also suggest that you visit a range and talk to other shooters and ask to get down behind their rifles to get a feel for how things fit you. I have no problem letting others get down and dry-fire my rifles to see if they like the way an action cycles or trigger breaks/feels. It also gives you the opportunity to look through different scopes and reticles to see if something strikes your fancy.

Best of luck on your journey...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Sig Marine,

I have followed the long range threads here, done a bunch of research, and have started taking notes for a long range build. The first thing in my notes is to have jelrod do the design and build. Modacam Custom Rifles

300WM or a 300PRC is a lot of gun for mainly 100-300yds!

Handload or factory ammo?

Both factory and handload. like to load, but I'm somewhat space-compromised right now.

.308 Win will meet all criteria described
And be a lot more forgiving on barrel life, along with cheaper brass, bullets, and powder costs to boot
Works for the Palma shooters
Why re-invent the wheel?
Think about it

Unless you are secretly planning on killing large animals/small cars at 900 yds

Might still be able to pick up a SSG-69
No muss no fuss .5 MOA machine
Or maybe a Remmy 700 M40 clone
A gazillion options really

My 300 win mag with a good recoil pad and custom brake is a pussy cat to shoot. I could shoot it all day long if I need too. Launching 180's downrange. Just say'in