NapoleonSolo - So am I correct that a lower is not round dependent?


Yes, the AR 15 lowers can handle a
.223/5.56 upper
.224 Valk upper
6.5 Grendel upper
6.8 spc upper
.300 black out upper
Just pop the two pins out and switch uppers. Might even be more choices.

quote:

Originally posted by NapoleonSolo:
So am I correct that a lower is not round dependent? In other words, I could have a 556 rifle and a 6.5 upper that would work by installing it in place of the 556 upper.

You are correct that the lower normally used for a 556/223 AR15 rifle can be used with other calibers. Understand that the other calibers must be sized to fit within the constraints of the AR15 platform, therefore you cannot use every caliber under the sun.

Commonly-used alternative calibers for a 223 AR15 lower include:
6.5 Grendel
6.8 SPC
300 Blackout

A few others:
350 Legend -- still pretty new, mainly a hunting cartridge
22 Nosler -- didn't really take off
224 Valkyrie -- more for long distance target shooting
6mm ARC -- very new, essentially a necked-down 6.5 Grendel
and some larger bore cartridges

300 Blackout uses the same bolt as 223. Same magazines, although the heavy sub-sonic rounds may not feed will in all magazines. The 300blk produces more muzzle energy than from a similar-length short-ish barrel than 223, due to the physics its larger bore.

6.5 Grendel, 6.8 SPC, 22 Nosler, 224 Valkyrie, 6mm ARC all use a larger case than a 223. This means more muzzle energy. It also means using a different bolt face, and possibly magazines. For the same length of magazine, they won't hold as many rounds as a 223.

Understand that when there are runs on 223 ammo, shortages of 300blk, 6.8 SPC, and 6.5 Grendel will likely soon occur. The shortages probably won't be as bad as with 223 ammo, but they will still occur. And they're occurring now.

When panic buy occurs, it almost always ripples through the entire hardware supply chain. Complete AR15 rifles are hard to find now. But so are complete lowers and complete uppers. If you want to build your own, stripped lowers and uppers are hard to find -- as well as the components to build them.

I bought a couple stripped lowers awhile back, figuring one of these days I get around to completing them. I have the lower parts kits ("LPKs"), and that's about it. The triggers I want are either out of stock or outrageously priced. The buttstock I want is sold out. However, I can find the buffer tube, spring, and buffer.

*****
Consider your priorities for rifle use. There are quite a few options, and one rifle won't be optimal for all of them. I still recommend getting some hands-on shooting with different models. And with different types of sighting systems -- irons, red dot, and magnified scope.

IMO the average rifle owner will be served just fine with an AR that's a value-line, a mid-priced model, or a premium model. The average AR15 owner won't have the need, use, or skills to determine which one works best for them. Nevertheless, a truly cheap AR15 is not a good path to follow. There are enough things that can go wrong on a semi-auto rifle -- stay away from the cheapest models.

Failure to fire/cycle with an AR15 often comes from:
- magazines -- A primary jamming point. A bad magazine is the only reason I've jammed in competition.
- ammo -- Another primary area. Too hot, too weak, out of spec -- all result in jams.
- unlubed action, coupled with poor cleaning -- I've seen lots of problems here.

Futzing with gas systems is likely in the next tier of failures to fire/cycle. Then finally, cheap and/or worn up small parts.

A well-built rifle by a quality manufacturer or gunsmith will run like a top. Putting better (and generally more expensive) components in a rifle will likely make it run longer, more accurately, and more reliably. I'll put my relatively expensive Wilson Combat, SI Defense, and Black Rain Ordnance ARs against any brand. Actually, I already have -- for tens of thousands of rounds -- in practice, in training, and in competition.

acquire anything yet??

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I have a Christensen Arms barrel on my Winchester 300 WMag and have handled many a Christensen Arms AR15 at the LGS. They are wonderfully light and appear well made. I'd buy a LMT DI which I also have. For an AR, unless weight is an issue, I'd pass as I think they are too pricey for what you get.

Agree worst time ever to be AR shopping.
Having used an AR pattern rifle since the 1980’s including multiple combat deployments my 2 cents:
A basic AR is fine. The fewer “ bells and whistles “ the better
All the innovations on ambi controls bad levers free float this or that, don’t really add much if anything to the utility of a rifle for the vast majority of people. I often operate an AR left handed and find no difficulty using the standard controls.
As has been said a basic Colt 6920 will get the job done just fine, and for most people your basic Ruger S&W or any number of the dozens of brands out there will work fine.
Lowers are stupid easy to assemble, and since they are the “rifle” based on serial number, if you are concerned with future restrictions buying a couple stripped lowers ( also scarce and increased price currently!) and being patient until parts and uppers supply and price stabilize would be a pretty good plan

I am still working on what to get. I started a thread on the 300 Blackout as I found 30 round FN15 for 1000.00 which is a 1400-1500 gun. I don't know crap about the 300 but the deal is really good and not an entry level gun I don't think.

So the FN 300 Blackout is out and I am back to the drawing board on what to do. I really don't know a ton about AR's and thought I had it figured out. Time to go shoot a few at the range and see what I think.

I am no expert in ARs, and I was justing asking opinions in another thread about this rifle:

https://www.kygunco.com/Produc...vad=211021_d1c493089

It's a Rock River Entry Tactical for $849, which is a very fair price at any time, much less during the current market climate. It's a pretty standard AR, and my suggestion is that you buy it, and shoot it. Shop later after you've gained experience IF you really want to keep tinkering with more than a "basic" rifle.

Here's a link to the other thread in case you haven't seen it. See what some more experienced folks are saying about the Rock River:

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...0601935/m/2250052374

quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:
I am no expert in ARs, and I was justing asking opinions in another thread about this rifle:

https://www.kygunco.com/Produc...vad=211021_d1c493089

It's a Rock River Entry Tactical for $849, which is a very fair price at any time, much less during the current market climate. It's a pretty standard AR, and my suggestion is that you buy it, and shoot it. Shop later after you've gained experience IF you really want to keep tinkering with more than a "basic" rifle.

Here's a link to the other thread in case you haven't seen it. See what some more experienced folks are saying about the Rock River:

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...0601935/m/2250052374

Buy one of those RRA's for $850.00 shipped and a Sig Romeo 5 from Cabela's for $150.00 shipped and spend the remainder of your budget on ammo and training. Oh, and pick up a decent rear back up sight (I like Magpul Pros).

I don't know how to hotlink a YouTube video here, but this is Kris "Tanto" Paronto talking about the AR he's used all over the world (Basic as can be Bushmaster that he bought for $500.00 - $600.00).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YbuK8SAfU&t=7s

We I just bought my first AR. Here are the specs:

AR 15 556 no scope though
16" Faxon 556 pencil barrel
Faxon light weight BCG
Diamond head handguard
Phase 5 extended bolt catch
Elf safety
Hogue pistol grip
Strike industries stock
Raptor charge handle
Odin extended mag release
Flag extended take down pins
Billet HVM lower

The rifle has maybe 600 rounds through it and based on my research has pretty good components. I paid 1050.00 for it and it's in really nice shape. The guy was an Indiana CC holder and a really good guy. I will get a photo posted once I fugre out what I am doing wrong. So, what does everyone think?

I'm not too keen on buying home builds with middle of the road and gimmicky parts at a premium price. What trigger is in it? What's on the end of the barrel?

congrats on your AR!

now get some ammo and go shoot

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I would change the lightweight BCG for a Toolcraft or BCM full auto BCG, if this is going to be for more than range play. The extra weight in the reciprocating parts adds to reliability, especially when dirty. Keep the LW stuff for "gun games" and general screwing about.
Then, lube it up, take a class and see if it fails.

Bruce

RN that is great advice. I will get this dialed in and see how it shoots. It has been 40 years since I have shot a rifle similar to this but that was the real deal.I have a lot to learn about AR's and I like to think I am a quick study and we will see how that goes. Now time to find ammo!

You did good by starting with a light rifle. Keep it that way. A light optic and a 20 rd magazine and you likely to be at a very manageable weight. Take a multi-day class and stress test the rifle and yourself.
Buy a bunch of magazines. Then buy a bunch more. Buy as large a pile of ammo as you can afford. Take an armorers class and learn how to maintain it. Learn what parts wear out and buy spares.

Be careful about buying spare parts. They often become spare rifles and then the process repeats.

Luck.

Bruce

quote:

Originally posted by NapoleonSolo:
We I just bought my first AR.

First, get out an shoot it. See how it works for you. Buy a sling -- I recommend a simple 2-point, such as a Vickers Blue Force.

Buy some magazines. Magpul, Lancer, and USGI with a Magpul follower should be on your short list. Find a magazine you like the looks and feel of, then stick with it. I see no reason for a huge variety of brands, if one brand works for you.

Buy some ammo. Tough time to find anything at reasonable prices, however.

Spare parts shouldn't be an immediate concern. After tens of thousands of rounds through multiple ARs, here are my recommendations:
- Firing pin retaining pins. They're cheap. They last maybe 2k to 3k rounds in my rifles before they start getting bent, making them more difficult to insert back into the bolt after cleaning. They still work when bent, it's just that I see no reason to futz with a bent one during re-assembly.

- Gas rings. Most likely you have the 3 single split rings. They work just fine. A properly gassed gun cycles with only 2 of 3 rings installed. Some will even cycle with only 1 ring installed. I prefer the one-piece ring design, which costs a little more -- but rings are still cheap. Figure 3k to 5k rounds (maybe more) before replacing rings is a reasonable idea.

- Firing pin, maybe. I have 1 or 2 spares in the wings, probably from prize tables in rifle matches. I've never had to change out a firing pin, however.

- Sometime down the road, a spare bolt might be a good idea. The old-style parkerized finish bolts tend to show wear on lugs at 5k rounds, or maybe a little more. The newer bolts with hardened surfaces go a whole lot longer before lugs show wear. You may need a new bolt when you replace a shot-out barrel. Barrels should last a minimum of 5k rounds, if you're an accuracy-anal-retentive competitor, shooting at long distances. Otherwise, figure 10k rounds -- maybe even 15k rounds -- on a barrel before accuracy at distance becomes unacceptable.

quote:

Originally posted by RNshooter:

Buy a bunch of magazines. Then buy a bunch more.

Bruce

+2 I like D&H($10)and Magpul M3($14) I have a SCAR so that's why I get the M3 but the MOE Magpuls are gtg and cheaper.

Great advice guys! I am learning my way around the AR's and getting more comfortable. I am working on finding ammo now and also reviewing my options for optics. Damn you can spend a lot of money on those!

Regarding optics:
You can go cheap or really spendy. I prefer to split the difference.
Burris makes a red dot setup they call the AR-F3. It's their Fastfire III on the cowitness mount, as a package. Usually around $270.

Fast, bright, and very rugged. A battery lasts about 3 years and can be replaced without unmounting the optic.
It's worth a look.

Bruce