I reload my 9mm ammo on a progressive press (has an auto case feeder). It's easy to miss .380 cases when you are cranking away.

If I don't catch these rounds when loading my mags, the round will get stuck in my SP5k chamber and not fire. They get pressed far enough in that the extractor doesn't latch on the case. This has happened a couple times when shooting and the gun is down until I get home to clear it.

So I'm looking for suggestions for something to keep in my range bag.

I would keep a hardwood dowel, or a section of an old aluminum cleaning rod section handy.

Brass brazing rod from a welding supplier will work just fine, as will the hardwood suggested above.

I keep a wooden dowel in my comp tool kit and a squib rod in my range bag. A squib rod can be had for around $10 online at places like Midway USA.

Brass rod is a good suggestion. What size should I go with? A .355 rod would be too big, right?

I have actual brass squib rods that are specifically designed and intended to remove stuck bullets from barrels, and that’s what I would recommend for removing stuck bullets. I have read of people using wooden sticks for the purpose only to have them make the problem worse because of how they splinter and wood gets jammed around the bullet nose.

As for removing stuck live rounds, though, and although a proper metal rod would normally work, another thing I’ve read about is that the process has resulted in causing the cartridge to fire with—obviously—very undesirable results. Why that would happen isn’t clear to me, and perhaps it’s nothing more than gun store myth but ….

At the risk of coming across as a sanctimonious snob, something that’s part of every range briefing I give is the warning to pay attention and make sure we’re loading the proper ammunition in our guns. And yes, part of the reason I include that as one of the many firearms safety rules we should be aware of is that to my embarrassment I broke it myself a couple/three times in the distant past. No harm was done in my experiences, but that’s not always the case when people aren’t careful.

I keep multiple size brass rods in my range bag to cover all calibers. They get the job done nicely.

Brass rod would work, but I'd also suggest adding an additional inspection/QC step when you're reloading. Every hundred rounds I stick the whole batch into 9mm ammo trays nose down, visually inspect, and run my finger over the primers to make sure everything is seated flush and to proper OAL.

Usually on my press I catch the .380s before they get to this point, though, because they're short enough that the expander die doesn't engage the case mouth and you can't seat the bullet.

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:
Brass rod would work, but I'd also suggest adding an additional inspection/QC step when you're reloading. Every hundred rounds I stick the whole batch into 9mm ammo trays nose down, visually inspect, and run my finger over the primers to make sure everything is seated flush and to proper OAL.

Usually on my press I catch the .380s before they get to this point, though, because they're short enough that the expander die doesn't engage the case mouth and you can't seat the bullet.

I carry a brass squib rod in my bag that was made by a shooting buddy


The weight at the end is just enough to avoid having to pound out squibs like you have to do with polymer rods I've seen. I avoid wood rod on the off chance they might splinter

Inspecting your rounds after reloading and before they get loading into your mag should be a regular step. I case gauge all my 9mm loads in a Hundo case gauge before they go into a .30 caliber ammo box.

Another time should should see them is if you put them into a MTM box before going to the range. With the bullet face down, a .380 cartridge should be noticeably shorter when you look across the top of the cases to check primer seating depth. Even if you're just running your thumb/finger over the cases to feel for high primers, you should be able to detect a shorter cartridge.

Usually I catch a .380 case, when loading 9mm, during the loading process on my progressive press. The obvious place to catch them is when the bullet doesn't sit in the case mouth securely, when moving between die stations, because it didn't get expanded enough

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Best

Nice piece of hardware for your range bag, Sir.
Kudos to your buddy.
Blackhorse4

You can get a 36" x 0.25" wooden dowel at the hardware store for about a buck.

I do have several dowels (wood) couple sectional brass cleaning rods, that I carry. Been lucky not to have used any but the wood rods. Suggestions on ammo checking before shooting spot on.
Regards to all.
Blackhorse4

I assume we're talking pistols here, not a rifle. You have a lathe, do you not? (I may be confusing you with someone else.) If you can't find one already the right size, turn down a brass rod (won't mar the barrel) to just fit down the bore easily but without rattling, about, let's say, a inch or two longer than the barrel, and use that for a punch. The same concept as the one pictured four posts above this one.

Brass is best. An 11/32" would be a very close fit, 5/16-8mm would be a safer bet.

I have one of these: https://deeprivercustoms.com/product/squib-rod/
I use it mainly for 9mm/38. I have a wooden dowel rod with a .44 magnum case for a head that I use for .45.

How tightly do bullets get stuck? Would a soft lead bullet have more or less friction than a jacketed?