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Lighthouse Keeper
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quote:
Originally posted by bozman:
Since a lot of revolver experts commented in this thread, I have 1 more question. The following pictures are of my Grandfather's pistol that he left to me. It is a S&W in .38. Not sure what I have here.


I’m not a revolver expert, but that is a S&W Military and Police revolver, known by some today as a “pre Model 10”; the M&P .38 special became the Model 10 in 1957 when S&W switched to numerical model names in place of the old naming system. I am not sure what generation it is, but I might guess at it being a pre-war specimen. I would also guess someone will come along shortly with more information on this very cool old revolver.

Your grandfather sounds like a very interesting man, and I hope you had the opportunity to spend a lot of time with him!
 
Posts: 844 | Location: America's High-Five | Registered: December 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Prior to purchasing any caliber revolver.

Place a Springfield armory XD 9 mm 4 inch next to it.

And weigh out the pro's and cons of each.





Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency.



Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first
 
Posts: 55320 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
Picture of MikeinNC
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Boz, like someone else said, your grandfather’s pistol is the predecessor of the Model 10. I inherited my grandfather’s Victory model he carried in WWII. The serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt. It’s called a Victory model as the serial numbers started with V. It’s also inside the frame when you open the cylinder. The grips are also penciled with the serial number on the inside. It has “U.S. Navy” engraved on the top strap.

Yours is 38Special caliber. It is NOT rated for 38spl+. You will find the sights are regulated for 158 grain ammo. That means if you shoot 158 bullets they will hit where you are aiming. I have found 148 wad cutters hit in the same spot.

If you take it apart be careful and DO NOT PRY the side plate off of it. Remove the grips, then the screws for the side plate and then tap the frame where the grips were with a small hammer or the handle of a screwdriver, this will jostle the sideplate free.

Go find a S&W manual for the model 10. You may be able to download it online.

Good luck and treasure your pistol



"Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein

“You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020

“A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker
 
Posts: 11568 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Mike & CTH...

Thank you very much.

The gun finish is in excellent condition for its age save for a few very minor rust spots. This is my opinion based on the fact that it was carried in leather in all weather conditions and then sat in a leather holster for many years without any maintenance or regard for its condition. I was thinking about buying a carding wheel and trying to convert the rust, as well as bring the finish back up to what it may have looked like originally.

The one picture that is dark is of the crane. The numbers appear to be a date.

I will look at the serial number in the morning and post it.

Not sure how much I will shoot the gun. I am 50 now and have a 19 year old nephew who will be the next owner. I just want to make sure I hand it over in the best possible condition so that it can live on as a family treasure.


The "Boz"
 
Posts: 1555 | Location: Central Ohio, USA | Registered: May 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The Serial Number for Grandpa's revolver is C 21824.


The "Boz"
 
Posts: 1555 | Location: Central Ohio, USA | Registered: May 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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