Stainless frame, not pitted but raised. Brass brush? Hoppes? Scotch pad?

0000 steel wool and some light machine oil.

I agree, very fine steel wool & thin oil to remove it.

I prefer bronze wool and light oil vs. 0000 steel wool.

quote:

Originally posted by MRBTX:
0000 steel wool and some light machine oil.

That's what I'd use.

Its grip finish. Definately bronze wool or brush. No steel as the tiny particals will embed and cause you rust. Its the wood finish from Elite wood grips.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
Its grip finish. Definately bronze wool or brush. No steel as the tiny particals will embed and cause you rust. Its the wood finish from Elite wood grips.

Thanks David, and yes, some oil or something turned the backside of the grips to crud in some spots.

Front strap checkering needs a lil attention too. A lil fuzz in it.

You need to buy a Carding Brush from Brownell's--If the bristles are soft enough to card just-outta'-the-tank Bluing with, used with a little restraint, it will not hurt your Sig...HTH

I have several of those hand carding brushes - I call them Wire Toothbrushes - and use them on a lot of places.

Try Mr Clean Magic Erasers, these little white pads take stuff off that I would never think would come off and they dont mark things up either.

I don't own any SIG pistols with aluminum frames. All of mine are stainless frame models, so I have plenty of first hand experience.
When removing the crud/grip finish/rust from the stainless steel pistol frame, it will usually still show some remaining surface discoloration where the crud/grip finish/rust was located.
As David Lee mentioned, using steel wool will embed small steel wool particles into the surface of the stainless steel pistol frame.
The steel particles WILL rust.
I have found that using stainless steel wool and oil cleans up the surface the best.
Any embedded particles of stainless steel wool remaining are much less prone to rusting.
It's easily sourced from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainle...g/dp/B01NCQCPOI?th=1

Coarse, Medium, and Fine, or an assortment of all three grades.
Finish the job with a light touch using a red 3M Scotch Brite pad in a random orbital pattern.
All traces of the crud/grip finish/light surface rust will be gone.

Another item for consideration is that most things made from stainless steel are placed in a chemical bath after they are manufactured. (passivation)
Elemental iron is removed chemically from the surface, leaving nickel and chromium exposed on the surface.
This isn't usually performed in the field and would require stripping all parts from the frame.

Try some Flitz and 000 or 0000 steel wool.

Any kind of steel or stainless steel wool will take down your bead blasted finish to a satin. It will no longer match. Try the bronze brush and if that doesn't clean it up good, find a local shop that has a sand blaster.

start easy,

wet with your favorite oil (hopped, kroil, whatever) and let it set a moment, and try to rub it off with a rag,

then a nylon brush,

if it is that hard, then 0000 and oil or use a brass punch and scrape it off easily

Try some Coca Cola, it will remove the corrosion via chemical reaction. Drip a little on the surface corrosion and let it sit a bit, it will eat the corrosion. Then take off with some alcohol. Don’t use steel wool, it can impregnate the steel frame surface and cause more corrosion. You can try a fine non metal scotchbrite pad possibly.

If it's a stainless steel frame, how about trying some stainless steel cleaner and a nylon toothbrush?

If anyone around Myrtle Beach needs to passivate some stainless, let me know. (It’s a regular part of cleaning a dairy line)

For the ChiCom stainless trim we run into, we usually use Sheila Shine to clean up the rust and prevent more from forming.

If it’s real junk, we have to use Barkeep’s Friend Polish to get the rust off, then the Sheila shine as a protection layer.

Definitely bronze wool instead of steel wool. It's amazing at pulling the rust off without damaging the finish.