quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

quote:

Originally posted by Modern Day Savage:
Typically I start with the least "aggressive" cleaner and medium. Usually a cleaning patch soaked with isopropyl alcohol, or perhaps Hoppes oil, and rubbing, starting with light pressure and slowly increasing the pressure if required. This generally removes most light surface stains and light surface rust that only recently formed.

If this method doesn't work then I move up to 0000 steel wool using a light gun oil like Hoppes or Breakfree CLP, again using minimum pressure and slowly increasing it if required.

It is a slow method that, in my experience, requires anywhere from several minutes to several hours, but I find that the results are generally acceptable and least likely to damage the surrounding finish.

This has removed the majority of light stains and light rust that I've encountered on guns. Any stains remaining after this process I find are generally so light that I choose to live with them as opposed to risking the surrounding finish surface.

Although I haven't resorted to it on my guns, I would consider bead blasting stains/ rust off a stainless steel gun as well.

No, no steel wool on stainless. It will polish away what is a fine bead blast finish and you'll be after Sig or a local sand blaster in a machine shop to bring back the finish. The particals from steel wool will imbed and rust badly.

Read my words again...no where did I suggest that you take steel wool and wrap it around a roto head and shove it in a cordless drill. Hand pressure isn't likely to cause any problems. Steel wool doesn't cause problems with stainless steel when just a bit of care is used.

David, if you can point out the specific area in these pics where steel wool was used I'll send you a $50 bill.

You've got plenty of suggestions for removal. As a preventative, I've put a coat of Ren wax on the inside of my wooden grips, I only have a few. It seems to work well, I've had no problems.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

quote:

Originally posted by az4783054:
When I find similar marks on stainless guns, I use a 3M green Scotch pad with VERY LIGHT pressure. Rub in one direction, not swirling. You can use CLP, alcohol or whatever to supplement the pad.

No, no 3m pads as again, they cut/polish to a satin finish and his ST is bead blasted.

The last giant image on the slide hadn't opened when I typed my reply. I was referring to the area under the grips which has the most blemished areas in the images. On a slide, bead blasting would be the best option if one wants it to be factory again.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and debate over first/best options. Definitely going to stay away from abrasive choices for now, will see how the other options go.

As I understand it, the spots on the barrel are likely small particles of steel embedded in the stainless? If so, and assuming mild solutions don't resolve, what's the risk of deferring a bead blast to restore?

Also, is the storage in original foam likely the culprit here? Stored in a safe, but with drier and not other signs on the other 6 pistols there.

I've read some say that storing a pistol in the factory case/foam can lead to rust. I'd previously never experienced it with any of my guns, but I kept them wiped down with oil.

But to be on the safe side, I wipe my guns down with oil or a silicone cloth and place them into heavy duty ZIPLOCK bags, then into PELICAN water proof/air tight cases.

My safe has not only a GOLDEN ROD heater but also three tubs of DAMP-RID which I change frequently due to monsoon humidity.

You can put a piece of chalk in your case to absorb any moisture. The large children sidewalk chalk, and few in safe. Only cost a dollar or two.

Someone suggested using cat litter as it's a clay based product. I'd suggest not using it after kitty has...

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:
Also, is the storage in original foam likely the culprit here? Stored in a safe, but with drier and not other signs on the other 6 pistols there.

In storing several of my SIG pistols in their factory storage boxes, I've never had them develop any rust at all. I suppose, if not put away with even a light oil wipe down, and if one lived in a humid climate or the gun was exposed to hot temps quickly followed by temps that caused condensation to form, the SIG factory box foam might be more conducive to promoting rust on a gun but it's not something I'm concerned about.

Having said that, I recently received a SIG from a forum dealer's personal collection (advertised in Excellent condition) that arrived with extensive rust on its controls. The dealer lives in a high heat high humidity state and stored the gun in its SIG factory blue plastic box. I believe the rust is more due to poor maintenance and a lack of wipe downs more than the factory box foam.

I have noticed that the SIG blue plastic factory box foam tends to leave a film or lightly adhere to the guns finish, or perhaps just absorb lube on the finish. In one case I found that the SIG had a corresponding "patchy" appearance on its finish that completely mirrored the egg-crate foam pattern. However in each case, a few minutes extra cleaning and lube removed all traces of this patchy appearance from the finish.

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and debate over first/best options. Definitely going to stay away from abrasive choices for now, will see how the other options go.

As I understand it, the spots on the barrel are likely small particles of steel embedded in the stainless? If so, and assuming mild solutions don't resolve, what's the risk of deferring a bead blast to restore?

Also, is the storage in original foam likely the culprit here? Stored in a safe, but with drier and not other signs on the other 6 pistols there.

Beadblasting will return the pistol to its original condition. Try never dull, it will take that out of the slide without a doubt. The under grip stuff too, but that will take a little more elbow grease. I polish stainless all of the time that is corroded by salt water that looks a heck of a lot worse than that and looks like a mirror when done.

quote:

Originally posted by Modern Day Savage:

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

quote:

Originally posted by Modern Day Savage:
Typically I start with the least "aggressive" cleaner and medium. Usually a cleaning patch soaked with isopropyl alcohol, or perhaps Hoppes oil, and rubbing, starting with light pressure and slowly increasing the pressure if required. This generally removes most light surface stains and light surface rust that only recently formed.

If this method doesn't work then I move up to 0000 steel wool using a light gun oil like Hoppes or Breakfree CLP, again using minimum pressure and slowly increasing it if required.

It is a slow method that, in my experience, requires anywhere from several minutes to several hours, but I find that the results are generally acceptable and least likely to damage the surrounding finish.

This has removed the majority of light stains and light rust that I've encountered on guns. Any stains remaining after this process I find are generally so light that I choose to live with them as opposed to risking the surrounding finish surface.

Although I haven't resorted to it on my guns, I would consider bead blasting stains/ rust off a stainless steel gun as well.

No, no steel wool on stainless. It will polish away what is a fine bead blast finish and you'll be after Sig or a local sand blaster in a machine shop to bring back the finish. The particals from steel wool will imbed and rust badly.

Read my words again...no where did I suggest that you take steel wool and wrap it around a roto head and shove it in a cordless drill. Hand pressure isn't likely to cause any problems. Steel wool doesn't cause problems with stainless steel when just a bit of care is used.

David, if you can point out the specific area in these pics where steel wool was used I'll send you a $50 bill.

I cannot see your photos on my phone. Bead blasted finishes are achieved how ? By shooting millions of particals into the surface at high velocity, effectivly penetrating it. Satin and high luster finishes are achieved by fine abrasives applied to a buffing wheel, effectivly dragging the surface of the material and closing its grain. This is what one does with products like wool of steel, more intended to cut junk off a surface. The OP would make a scratched satin or rougher finish out of his bead blasted finish. Its called screwing it up. Damaging it. The suggestions above to use soft bronze or plastic brush, along with cleaning chems or lube are as far as one should go so as not to damage the finish. Reblasting is best as it removes rust or gunk down in the blasted finish pores and returns the surface to its original state. Even deep down rust can be blasted away but will leave the dimples from material being eaten away by rust. Bottom line, dont scrub any woolen abrasives on a poris finish. You can resatin or bright polish yes, you'll never reblast a surface with scrubbing materials.

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and debate over first/best options. Definitely going to stay away from abrasive choices for now, will see how the other options go.

As I understand it, the spots on the barrel are likely small particles of steel embedded in the stainless? If so, and assuming mild solutions don't resolve, what's the risk of deferring a bead blast to restore?

Also, is the storage in original foam likely the culprit here? Stored in a safe, but with drier and not other signs on the other 6 pistols there.

I like Breakfree for cleaning and surface protection. I suggest you spray them down or for less mess, wipe them down with it or a like product, put your pistols in new zip lock bags to store them in foam lined boxes. Even still, dont be affraid to check in on them now and then. Take them out of the bags and wipe them down again, say hello. The silicone wrags are great! They are less messy and smell good. Zip lock bags between the pistol and foam.

quote:

Originally posted by az4783054:
When I find similar marks on stainless guns, I use a 3M green Scotch pad with VERY LIGHT pressure. Rub in one direction, not swirling. You can use CLP, alcohol or whatever to supplement the pad.

Those are abrasive, and I'd save those for one of the last things I would try. Flitz is also abrasive. Try the non-abrasive solutions offered here first.

Foam can hold moisture, making rust more likely. I don't know what metal particles could have embedded in the barrel. Stainless CAN rust. No grade is totally stainless, and some can develop rust more easily than others.

I've never used FLITZ but I have used WENOL polishes on Harley's and show cars for many years. The common ingredients in off the shelf polishes is ammonium hydroxide and denatured alcohol.

You may chose not to believe the manufacturer's claims. The FAQ section of FLITZ has information about the abrasive qualities of their products.

https://www.flitz.com/faqs/

First my recommendation would be to do nothing. Next use kerosene and denim from old blue jeans.

Last - one part water and one part acetone and denim. Wash acetone/water away within 20 seconds and begin again.