I would love any suggestions on how best to deal with the two similar but different issues below.

First pair of pics are both sides of frame of 220ST. I've not taken the rosewood grips off in a few years since adding them, and notices some gunk around the edges when cleaning this weekend. Pulled them off, and most of the gunk was easily cleaned up other than what you see left. Is this just finish discoloration of the frame, or something else? Almost looks like mold, but obviously that would have come off with a vigorous cleaning.

Bonus points if you notice the trigger spring is dislodged. I did notice that after, of course, having put the grips back on.... and put back in place.

Second pair of pics is the top of a slide on an X5. It has been stored in the original case, obviously not optimal since that means it's up against foam all the time. Again, doesn't really look like rust, but it's something and won't come off with oil and elbow grease. I'm not wild about mucking up that slide, and if it's something I should just let ride I can, but if I can/should clean that up and store outside of case foam I can.

Thanks!

Typically I start with the least "aggressive" cleaner and medium. Usually a cleaning patch soaked with isopropyl alcohol, or perhaps Hoppes oil, and rubbing, starting with light pressure and slowly increasing the pressure if required. This generally removes most light surface stains and light surface rust that only recently formed.

If this method doesn't work then I move up to 0000 steel wool using a light gun oil like Hoppes or Breakfree CLP, again using minimum pressure and slowly increasing it if required.

It is a slow method that, in my experience, requires anywhere from several minutes to several hours, but I find that the results are generally acceptable and least likely to damage the surrounding finish.

This has removed the majority of light stains and light rust that I've encountered on guns. Any stains remaining after this process I find are generally so light that I choose to live with them as opposed to risking the surrounding finish surface.

Although I haven't resorted to it on my guns, I would consider bead blasting stains/ rust off a stainless steel gun as well.

Before you move into any abrasive materials that may change the stainless appearance, I'd try Evaporust. Works wonders. Just be sure you only apply to stainless, as it will remove some other finishes (blueing, parkerizing). You can wipe it on with a cloth or just soak overnight. Afterwards, apply Eezox.

Polish both areas with Nevrdull. You can buy it in automotive stores and hardware stores in a metal can for about $6. Will take several applications but will remove all of that. It's a wadding material, just follow the directions. It is non abrasive and will not change the finish.

I found little flecks in the matte of the top of a slide NIB. I went ahead bought it because it was a model soon to be replaced by something nearly as good at a higher price. They cleaned up pretty easily with oil and a brush.

The patches of corrosion on the frame look much worse. Rosewood sap rust? I dunno, but I would get wax or other durable protectant between the metal and grips after cleaning.

Kroil and a rag will get a lot of it off .

The stuff on the frame looks like old oil around the grip profile. I've removed it from several guns that looked the same.

I've removed stuff like that by rubbing hard with a patch soaked in Corrosion-X

When I find similar marks on stainless guns, I use a 3M green Scotch pad with VERY LIGHT pressure. Rub in one direction, not swirling. You can use CLP, alcohol or whatever to supplement the pad.

Krud kutter by rustoleum works well. It's more expensive than evaporust, but performs a bit better.

Soak for 24 hours and watch the rust disappear.

Not rust? Try a nylon brush and brake cleaner.

I had something similar on one of my all stainless P226's. I contacted Sig and sent it back to them and they bead blasted it. I don't remember it costing to much but it came back in brand new condition. I know it will cost a little bit more than a DIY job but the results are perfect.

quote:

Originally posted by Modern Day Savage:
Typically I start with the least "aggressive" cleaner and medium. Usually a cleaning patch soaked with isopropyl alcohol, or perhaps Hoppes oil, and rubbing, starting with light pressure and slowly increasing the pressure if required. This generally removes most light surface stains and light surface rust that only recently formed.

If this method doesn't work then I move up to 0000 steel wool using a light gun oil like Hoppes or Breakfree CLP, again using minimum pressure and slowly increasing it if required.

It is a slow method that, in my experience, requires anywhere from several minutes to several hours, but I find that the results are generally acceptable and least likely to damage the surrounding finish.

This has removed the majority of light stains and light rust that I've encountered on guns. Any stains remaining after this process I find are generally so light that I choose to live with them as opposed to risking the surrounding finish surface.

Although I haven't resorted to it on my guns, I would consider bead blasting stains/ rust off a stainless steel gun as well.

No, no steel wool on stainless. It will polish away what is a fine bead blast finish and you'll be after Sig or a local sand blaster in a machine shop to bring back the finish. The particals from steel wool will imbed and rust badly.

quote:

Originally posted by BuddyChryst:
Before you move into any abrasive materials that may change the stainless appearance, I'd try Evaporust. Works wonders. Just be sure you only apply to stainless, as it will remove some other finishes (blueing, parkerizing). You can wipe it on with a cloth or just soak overnight. Afterwards, apply Eezox.

Not a bad idea.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Polish both areas with Nevrdull. You can buy it in automotive stores and hardware stores in a metal can for about $6. Will take several applications but will remove all of that. It's a wadding material, just follow the directions. It is non abrasive and will not change the finish.

No, its good for satin finish or bright polish, mainly on aluminum wheels and truck fuel tanks. The finish he is dealing with is glass bead or sand blasted.

quote:

Originally posted by PGT:
The stuff on the frame looks like old oil around the grip profile. I've removed it from several guns that looked the same.

Yup, tarnished oil or a reaction to the rose wood grips which are laminated by a strong adhesive. Even the color from the stocks can drain over time from lubricants or moisture.

quote:

Originally posted by az4783054:
When I find similar marks on stainless guns, I use a 3M green Scotch pad with VERY LIGHT pressure. Rub in one direction, not swirling. You can use CLP, alcohol or whatever to supplement the pad.

No, no 3m pads as again, they cut/polish to a satin finish and his ST is bead blasted.

A fine lube like Breakfree I am more familiar with than most others rust cutting chems. As abrasive as I would get on a bead blasted stainless finish, to remove gunk or light rust down in its pores would be Breakfree and a soft bronze gun cleaning tooth brush. Light circular motion and sprayed with Breakfree prior to brushing. Do the surface under the grips before you go to your slide. If it dont come off, off to a blaster goes your pistol.

Proceed with caution if you are concerned with cosmetics. This is what a combination of 0000 steel wool w/ 3-in-1 oil and Nevr-Dull did to my blued 1973 Hi Power. Of course, I was more interested in removing the heavy rust scale than preserving the original finish.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Polish both areas with Nevrdull. You can buy it in automotive stores and hardware stores in a metal can for about $6. Will take several applications but will remove all of that. It's a wadding material, just follow the directions. It is non abrasive and will not change the finish.

No, its good for satin finish or bright polish, mainly on aluminum wheels and truck fuel tanks. The finish he is dealing with is glass bead or sand blasted.

Nevrdull works great on stainless steel as well as aluminum. It will not harm the light bead blasted finish in any way. I use it on stainless all of the time on yachts, mostly on interior fixtures...the entire yachting industry uses it on stainless and other metals...lights, sink fixtures, shower door hinges, etc. I've used it on stainless guns for a long time.

http://www.nevrdull.com/page6.html

Flitz, and a nylon tooth brush. Move on to a brass-bristled brush, if the softer one won't cut it.